20 Most Recent Kenmore 46462 Front Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The F33 error code indicates a pump drive system error. If the pump ohms out correctly & the harness is secure I recommend replacing the CCU (central control unit).
Please see the following image provided for instructions.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,stwwfrggtqfbrbbxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/wgtbwqwssxsbwkbdtfwxrbfbddwwf/1/1303472/5961857/image9159087223444281043img-or.jpg

Remember to disconnect power to the washer before attempting access.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Only if your temperature in your area goes below 35 degreesF.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

It appears your dual inlet water valve has failed in this instance if neither HOT nor COLD work in any setting... otherwise it's the main controller at fault.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

"F20" is a No Water Detect error. It is an indication that you either have no water coming into the washer, or very little water at all. If the pressure switch has not tripped after 6 minutes, the error code is displayed. This can be a potential problem with the following:


If you have NO water in the wash tub, check the following:

- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.

If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, check the following:

- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
- Verify wire harness connections at the pressure switch, inlet valves, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).

To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet

To access the Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a plastic air hose attached. Verify the electrical connections are intact, and the air hose is attached and not cracked or leaking.

To access the Central Control Unit (CCU) – with the top panel of the washer removed, the CCU is located directly behind, and just above the rear of the wash tub. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the lower panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics and to verify the wire connections at the CCU. In addition, the tech sheet will also assist in how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

These times are pre-programmed and not user selectable.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It is likely your internet connection is not working properly.

Unplug your modem, router, PC, and power down your PS3.

Plug in your Modem.
Wait for it to run it's full diagnostics.

Plug in your router and let it do the same.

Power on your computer and let it obtain an IP address.

Then re-try your PS3.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

3 Beeps/E30--Error: Drum overfilled. Cause: Inlet valve,pressure switch or control board failure.Select drain/spin to remove water. Restart.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

The LOC code merely means the control responded and locked the door. You'll find a tech sheet under the top panel of the machine to help guide you thru the diagnostic process, which is fairly involved.

LOC means it thinks the control panel is locked. This gives the ERR indication when you push the buttons. To unlock it you need to hold down the Options and Select buttons together until it reacts.

I know this may seem silly but - On the top right back corner of your washer hit it with medium force with your fist, this helps.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

“F21” is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for helping with your FREE question

Reset the unit by unplugging for 40 minutes.

otherwise the ECU is at fault.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

motor controller - usually.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Unplug and wait 40 minutes to reset the ECU and re-try.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

“F02” is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

“F02” is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump




The "SUDS" error can be caused by too much detergent, improper detergent, drain pump/drain line problem, or pressure switch malfunction.

1. If you are not using HE detergent, you need to be. These washers are designed to use HE detergent which is formulated for wash tubs that use 5 to 7 gallons of water. If you use regular detergent, you are, in affect, placing a higher concentration of detergent in the washer that is normally formulated for wash tubs that have a 35 gallon capacity. The manufacturer should have a disclaimer in the owner's manual explaining this. In most cases this will also void your warranty. NOTE: Prolonged use of the wrong detergent can damage the drain pump components and or wash tub seals.

If you are using the correct detergent, double check the label to make sure it is not double (2X) or triple (3X) concentrated. You could still be placing too much soap in your wash.

To get rid of excessive detergent, place the washer on a RINSE & SPIN cycle, then run it through a normal wash cycle with NO detergent added. You may have to repeat these steps depending on the amount of detergent used.

2. If you do not have a detergent issue, double check the drain pump and drain lines to ensure they are not obstructed in any way. Click on the following link for step-by-step instructions:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

Obstructions in the drain pump and/or drain lines can attribute to air getting trapped in the drain pump and cause the error code. Double check all electrical connections to the drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). You will need to remove the top panel of the washer to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top panel in place. With the screws removed, slide the panel back, then off. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the center of the washer. The Drain Pump connector will be the 6th connector (facing from the front L to R) in the center of the CCU.

3. Check the Pressure Switch to ensure it is good. The Pressure Switch is located to the right of the CCU as you are looking from the front. It is a small cylindrical shaped device with a connector plug and an air hose attached. The switch can be checked at several water levels by removing the plug and taking resistance readings at the connector pins. Readings are as follows:

(Pins are numbered R to L facing the from the REAR)

Pins 1 to 2 (SUDS Detect) – 0 ohms
Pins 3 to 4 (Overflow) – 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 5 (L1) – 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 6 (Empty) – 0 ohms

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

"F27" is an Overflow Condition error. The following link explains the error and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608602-f27_error_code


For a full explanation of all the error codes, each one of these appliances come with a technical data sheet inside.

To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front fett of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.

The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.

Read through the information provided and let me know if you have any further questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

was the trip in house knocked of at any time ,sound like it was knocked of its cycle.Push and hold the on/off button in for about 5 secounds this should reset the program and if tha fails push and hold the on/off botton plus one other botton and hold the both of them in for about 5 secounds.adrian,,,,,,,,,,,,

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574284-checking_the_drain_pump_on_a_front_loade

Check the above link for an detaile answer on how to rectify the problem if it is clogged up near the pump..

If it sounds like a coin is rattling, chances are there is. Getting it out is not an easy feat. It requires pulling the drum out to get to the inside of the tub. Time may solve this problem as there is a reservoir at the water pump to catch coins and debris. You can access this by pulling the bottom panel off, locating the pump, and removing the rubber tube from pump and dumping contents.
I don't think I would suggest pulling the tub out with no experience for two reasons:
1. There is a rubber booth attached to the front door and the rub. Removing is easy. Putting back on is next to impossible by hand. 2. The tub is suspended by large springs. The tub is weighted by concrete and is extremely heavy. Removing it can cause injury if you are unfamiliar. Removing the springs can also be dangerous.

As for the the bearing noise. These units don't have a traditional transmission. The mother does the direction shifting. There is a bearing case, sometimes called the transmission, in this case, which is surprisingly easier to repair than getting the coin out.
Pull the screws off the back panel and remove cover. You will see a large wheel with a belt around it which also goes around a spindle on the motor at the bottom. Remove the belt simply by turning the wheel by and and slowly pushing the belt off, towards you, as you turn. Inspect the belt for wear or cracks. If needed, replace it.
Remove the wheel from the spindle and you will find a bearing or gear case. Simply remove and replace that case. You can order the part online at www.searspartsdirect.com. You will need the model number of the unit located on the back panel you removed. You may also order by calling: 1-800-252-1698.