20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Go to google and ask what does E1 error code mean on a Kenmore Dryer (Model #) and you will get several answers

Hello there
The dreaded f21 error is due to the drainage system being clogged normally by small articles of clothing or things like change or things of this nature so what you are going to want to do is to first unplug the machine then remove the lower axcess panel in the front it may be held on by 3 or 4 screws you have to get to them from behind this cover now you should be able to see the pump it may have a plug like thing on the top of it that you can unscrew and then clean out the pump verry good then replace the plug and ensure it is tight or it will leak ok then plug in the machine and if you have a error on the pad press the cancel button and then give it a try like you would do normally ok and you should be ok from here
Hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards mike

are u saying it shuts down or just stops heating? if it shuts down u may have bad motor windings and or brushes and motor is burning out if its stops heating that is usually due to bad moister sensor, cycling thermostat ( which would not usually shut appliance off though), short in heating element, defective hi limit thermostat etc and of course u already said u cleaned lint and ducts? including the blower? if its blocked with lint u have a shut off issue

communicating.The F01 can mean that the central control unit has failed. I would try to first The thing to try first enter and run a diagnostic test. If it fails to run then you wil need to replace the controlunit.there is also a chance that the Motor triac short circuited check motor (especially for corrosion on the connectors) and module connections, if it is o.k there is a possible motor fault. I am certain you tried to unplug your maching and leave it unplugged for a while to give the computer a chance to reset. To start the diagnostics mode Close the door Push POWER Select the RINSE/DRAIN & SPIN cycle Push 2nd RINSE 4times in 5 seconds Push 2nd RINSE to advance to the next step of the test procedure If the starting procedure fails, press STOP, the repeat the starting procedure Hope this helps, good luck.

Hello.

When your dryer heats yet gives very poor drying results its usually always poor air flow that's causing it to take forever to dry the clothing.
To check to see why it has poor airflow the first thing to check is for a blocked or restricted vent tube from the back of the dryer all the way to where it exits the house. Also in some case lint is built up in the blower wheel/lint filter housing and that housing would need to taken apart and clean all the lint from it.


GENE

DRYER MAKES NOISES. A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt. The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact. The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out. CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing. The blower: Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel. The bearings: The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process. The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it. The drum rollers or castors: It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers. Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them.

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

does it start right away or do u have to wait abour 1 hour? if so bad motor windings other wise check ur venting

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ut push start button for continuity with a meter when pushed in the on position, it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

EBAY OR REPAIRCLINIC,COM

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ut push start button for continuity with a meter when pushed in the on position, it may have gone bad.

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ut push start button for continuity with a meter when pushed in the on position, it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs

cut it off & replace it with an ordinary plug

DOOR SWITCH?

AT LEAST 127 DEGREES

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ut push start button for continuity with a meter when pushed in the on position, it may have gone bad.