Best guess is a timer contact problem, usually caused by advancing the timer by hand without pushing the dial in to stop the machine first.This causes burnt contacts.
When the washer fills but does not agitate or spin
then you can check if the lid switch is fine. You can jump start the lid switch
by connecting both the wires with each other or use the third wire to act as
jumper between the two. After this if the problem is solved then replacing lid
switch is recommended repair. If you believe the lid switch is fine then the problem is with the timer nothing else. Please get back to me if you have any other
questions.
The conditioner / softener typically is expelled during the spin cycle. Over time, the holes where the softener exits through can become plugged. Try removing the assembly, normally they just lift right off, and turn it over. You should then be able to see the holes and blockages.
Another symptom is if the spin cycle is not going as fast as it should, possibly due to overloading, damaged motor, or transmission issues.
I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>>
So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced.
From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
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If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.