20 Most Recent Maytag HAV2557 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Make sure you have load in it, have same problem with washer when I only have small load. Had tried every thing until I found it was load size.

Hello.Maybe the drain is blocked.it sounds like your machine is working ok to me,if you can hang the hose over the edge of a laundry tub & make sure the plug is out,see if the water drains away,otherwise it sounds like a plumbing problem not the machine.it started only after you moved houses so more likely the plumbing.hope i helped.

we just had the same problem and it was the bearing on the bottom of the pump, then it seized and we could possibly have to replace the motor to because of the load the bad pump put on it, I wish you luck with yours.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

As it was possibly in drain mode I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello,

Their are 2 possibilites causing it to overflow

1) the water inlet valve that the hoses from the house plumbing attach to is sticking open,when it sticks it will stick open regardless if thier is power to the machine or not,so to determine if that is the problem,start the washer and quickly unplug it,if the water continues to fill, that valve is sticking

2) the water level switch is defective,do the same as far as starting it,if the fill stops when power disconected it's the water level switch that is in need of replacement

Good luck, i hope this helps and if it does please give me a 4 thumbs up rating

Gene

did you fit the trasport screws back in before you moved it???? if not they may have pulled a pipe off becouse the drum would bounce about in transit

Possible that the motor was loaded when the shirt got caught into the drive. Allow the machine to cool offf , open the rear/back panel and check to see the heated component. Can be the motor, the capacitor or the belt slipping by. After cooling off and removing of the struck shirt if the set done not works then checck if the motor has failed .

I used to have 2 laundromats full of toploader Maytags... these will fill and do exactly what is happening to you if the LID SWITCH is not activating. Open and close the lid and listen for a clicking sound. Look a the rear edge of the lid... there is an indentation that is supposed to activate a small white switch in the that's attached to the top of the machine. Many times the lid will simply get bent.. someone sitting on the lid, standing on the lid... will be enough to throw it out of whack. Close the lid and push on the center of the closed lid... will the machine work? Or carefully push a flatblade screwdriver tip between the lid and the switch to see if you can get it to activate. Solution: Open the lid and apply firm pressure on the lid towards the back of the machine, while with the other hand push DOWN on the back edge of the lid...right where the indentation for the switch is... if you give it a slight tweak...you'll probably be back in business. One other thing, if the lid switch isn't clicking...replace it.

check the water pubp or all hoses

The tub is out of alignment.The suspension springs are weak and must be tight, the tub must not shake,if so the dampers are faulty.
This suspension must be so rigid that it must not shake around freely . check the pulley arangement , the bearings at the bottom spindle, if out of balance. If there is any anomalies in this ddrive section it must be observed and checked.
A careful analysis is most important to having a first hand information.

Yes, that would be a bottom seal. They are more time consuming than anything.
You need a Mounting stem repair kit - Maytag washer stem and seal kit, comes with hub assembly, seal and spanner nut.

1. Unplug washer and Remove twoPhilips head screws holding front panel in ( newer models have clips on thebottom and no screws )
2. Remove front panel, lift panel from sides, has two "tabs" on top
3. Remove two 3/8ths hex head screws holding top down
4. Lift up top, it's somewhat hinged, careful lid doesn't smash against wall or pipes
5. Disconnect water tube on left side to top cover
6. loosen the two screws on the steel band... straight or 5/16th ( newer washershave a plastic tank cover, pry out the tabs and lift up to remove the plastictank cover )
7. gently but forcefully remove the top cover
8. careful not to bend the band or cut the gasket
9. *remove the agitator by grasping firmly and pulling up towards your chin,carefully!
*( many have 1/4 hex head screw onagitator, down the side near the base, olderones have arubber ring on transmission shaft )
10.using a hammer and your spanner wrench remove or cut off the spanner nut, it is a lefthand threadso it must come off clockwise, careful not to chip the tub
11. remove the inner tub,, it's heavy with the concrete counter balance
12. take the Allen wrench screw (or torx) out of the mount stem ( see one of the4 dimples for the set screw )
13. using your hammer and spanner wrench take the mount stem off, mount stem is a lefthand threadso it must come off clockwise
14. now grasp the seal and remove, careful you can slip ( Also if just replacing just the"Seal and stem kit" skip to 31. and continue ) I don'trecommend replacing the seals only with out the tub bearing!
15. put a 1/2" socket on the nut on the front and 1/2" box wrench oradjustable wrench on the insidebolt, and loosenusing the socket on the outside, but not remove entirely the front nut
16. then using the same two tools remove the left and right bolts and nuts and lock nutsand plate,noticing the fiber washer
17. then remove the front one
18. remove tub to pump top hose clamp and pull off up 1/2 of that hose, now work the outer tub loose and lift up but not out entirely
19. remove the pressure hose on your rear right side
20. take out the tub
21. stomp (using your foot) out the tub bearing housing from inside the outer tub
22. remove the "metal sleeve collar" on the transmission shaft
22A. you're half started
23. turn the outer drum over
24. take the new tub bearing and "stomp" it into the outer tank...flush, take your time anddouble/triple check yourself on these steps, (takes less time to recheck and verify thanto tear down and start over)
25. put the new collar over the transmission
26. put the outer tub back on and reattach the pressure hose and pump hose
27. line up the front hole and put the front (short) bolt in, making sure you have thefiber washer on the outside of the tub
28. put the rectangular flat washer on, then the lock washer and the nut by hand...
thread it on a couple of turns but leave loose
29. put the right and left bolts and stuff on, tighten well
30. tighten up the front one
31. check for rust and clean as required. Put the seal on next, careful not to tear theseal, but it needs to be all the way down. One side has a special edge of carbon orsomething like that and that needs to be UP towards you. Sometimes taking a littlebit of liquid laundry detergent and lining the inside bottom lip of the sealwith it can help with the installation of the seal onto the tank.
32. take the torx screw out of the new mount stem, and screw down the stem mount, tighten with spannerwrench ( don't over tighten! ), install the torx screw
33. put the inner tub on
34. check the spacing around the top of the inner tub (making sure that the tub is notlisting one way or another)
35. put the metal cover on and spanner nut
36. put the top cover on and push it all the way down
37. check and clean the gasket and put it back on. Check for rust and clean asrequired.
38. put the clamp back on over the gasket
39. tighten to a moderately firm but not tight setting
40. carefully with a long straight screwdriver pry up the top part, bit by bit
run your fingers around the clamp to make sure the gasket didn't pop up
41. when you think you have a good position, take your index finger and on the inside putit betweenthe top cover and top of the inner basket and make sure you have this space all round sothatthe inner basket doesn't rub against the top cover
42. tighten the clamp
43. reinstall the hose from the injector to the top cover
44. plug unit back in and turn to spin
45. let it spin for a couple of minutes
46. turn timer to fill and put water in
47. water test before securing top and reinstalling front panel

Your drain hose needs to have the "curved" part above the level of the basket top. Otherwise, water will continually run out (usually onto the floor).

Some models have a stand alone water pump that is turned on to drain the washer. The timer (during drain, spin, etc cycles) turns this pump on and off. If your hose is inserted into the stand pipe as it should be, then the water pump being turned on is likely the problem.

Since you aren't mentioning that water is all over your floor, I think that a loose / torn hose can be ruled out as well. You need another timer switch assembly.

replace water valve

The problem is the pressure switch has failed. These are usually inexpensive and are very easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru the inspection and replacement of this part. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available.