This is probably the drive belt slipping on the drum or motor. There is usually no adjustment on these and it is a case of replacing the belt. If you take the top off the machine, you may be able to look inside while it is running (KEEP CLEAR OF THE ELECTRICS AND DO NOT DELVE INSIDE WHILE THE MACHINE IS IN THIS STATE!) and see the belt slipping. If it is, it's probably time for a new belt
Ohm out the thermal fuse, if it is ok, then you can ohm out the heating element, be sure to visually check the element as well becqause it could just be shorted out internally giving you a reading, but first and foremost check your voltages be sure you are getting 240 across the outer plug spades and 120 volts from left to common and right to common, unplug this thing before you get into the element area or you could end up with a smokin fro !
If the dryer has a 4 wire cord and you need a 3 wire cord, you should have a jumper, or little metal strip, that came with the dryer. You will connect this jumper between the green ground screw that attaches to the frame and the screw where you white neutral wire lands on the terminal block.
If the dryer is 4 wire and you need it four wire, you simply connect the white to the neutral screw, the black to one of your hot screws, the red to your other hot screw and you green to the green screw connected to your frame. If there is a piece of metal, "jumper" connected from the neutral or white screw and the green screw in the frame you will need to remove this.
Write back if you need clarification.
MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT IS OFF AND THE CORD UNPLUGGED FROM THE OUTLET BEFORE STARTING. TEST FOR VOLTAGE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.
youve probably got a bad heating element, also make sure air is blowing out back of dryer to the outside of house if its plugged it will cause element to break good luck
The machine is probably doing exactly what it is supposed to do and failing safe because of a problem. This problem is usually the result of an overheat causing a thermal cutout to trip. While I don't know this machine specifically, you will probably find that there is a screw on bulge on the back of the machine that covers the fan and heater unit. (Unplug from the mains first!!) remove the panel (Usually about 6-8 screws) and inside you will find a heater element. Near to this you will find at least one thermal cutout, it will be a little metal disc set in plastic, about the size of a penny with 2 wires coming off it. There may be more than one of these, but typically, only one has a tiny hole in the back at the centre. If you push a paper clip or pin into the hole gently, you will hear a click as the metal disc in the cutout pops from a concave to a convex shape and re-sets the cutout.
Reassemble and the problem should be fixed. Now ask yourself why it tripped? Usually because:
One or more filters or the condensor were clogged and needed cleaning
The inlet or outlet for the airflow were obstructed
Both these things will cause an overheat and the cutout will trip.
These things very seldom fail because of a fault, but if the unit keeps tripping the thermal cutout, the problem may be a real heater fault and you should look to change the heater element or get someone to change it for you if you are unsure.
Four Screws holding the exhaust pipe that the hose connects to on the lower back of the dryer. Remove those screws and pull the pipe out - It has a rubber gromet on the inside end that should fit onto the opening on the inside of the dryer. May need a flashlight to see inside while aligning it when putting it back in.
I have the same problem--it is the heating element. Bad news is they don't make the part anymore. The solution from maytag.com is to buy a new one and they will reimburse you 15%...not a very good solution considering how much this one cost and the amount of years it has been used. If you find a place that sells the heating element please post!
"DO" indicates Door Open Door monitor switch in door lock mechanism is not able to communicate to the control board is open.Try taking the following action
1.Make door is closed.
2.Check for loose wire connections at switch and/ or machine control board.
3.Check for failed door monitor switch.
4.Check inputs and outputs at machine control board.
5.Replace responsible component.
Good luck.Please do rate my answer if liked.also please post comments for further queries.
Door switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
My dyrer just stopped working one day. I've had the heating element checked, both boards and my electrical outlet checked but my dryer still doesn't work. All I get is a troubleshooting code that looks like an upside down F with a 5 behind it. If you have a solution to this problem please let me know Thank You.
El c?digo de error "od" en una lavadora Maytag Neptune TL generalmente indica un problema relacionado con la apertura de la puerta. "od" es una abreviatura de "Open Door" (Puerta Abierta en ingl?s). Aqu? hay algunas acciones que puedes tomar para solucionar este problema:
Verifica la Puerta: Aseg?rate de que la puerta de la lavadora est? completamente cerrada y que no haya obstrucciones que impidan que se cierre correctamente.
Reinicia la Lavadora: Intenta reiniciar la lavadora. Descon?ctala de la corriente el?ctrica durante unos minutos y luego vuelve a enchufarla. Esto puede restablecer la electr?nica interna y eliminar el c?digo de error.
Inspecciona el Pestillo de la Puerta: Verifica el pestillo de la puerta para asegurarte de que est? funcionando correctamente. Si el pestillo est? da?ado o desgastado, podr?a necesitar ser reemplazado.
Comprueba el Cableado: Examina el cableado que conecta el interruptor de la puerta y el panel de control. Aseg?rate de que no haya cables sueltos o da?ados.
Sensor de la Puerta: Algunas lavadoras tienen un sensor de la puerta que puede fallar. Consulta el manual del usuario de tu lavadora para obtener informaci?n espec?fica sobre la ubicaci?n del sensor de la puerta y c?mo comprobar su funcionamiento.
Llama al Servicio T?cnico: Si despu?s de intentar estas soluciones el problema persiste, es posible que necesites la asistencia de un t?cnico de servicio. Puede haber un problema m?s complejo con el sistema de la lavadora que requiera atenci?n profesional.
Recuerda que estas son sugerencias generales y pueden variar seg?n el modelo espec?fico de tu lavadora. Siempre es recomendable consultar el manual del usuario de tu electrodom?stico para obtener informaci?n espec?fica sobre los c?digos de error y las soluciones recomendadas. Si no tienes el manual, puedes buscarlo en l?nea o contactar al servicio de atenci?n al cliente de Maytag para obtener asistencia.
Question edited for clarity.
When the power came back on, or when it went out, there was probably a brown out or voltage surge. You need a service visit. You can try and claim against the utility company for not regulating their power supply to you. Are you certain you have power at the outlets? It is odd that both would succumb to it, unless you were hit by lightning?
I assume the model starts with a M, not a W?
Anyway, you did not indicate if the washer does not do any draining ... or it just leaves a bit of water in the chamber?
No draining issue (no pumping sound):
Your washer could have a faulty drain pump and motor assembly, loose wire connection in the drain pump circuit or it could have a faulty machine control board.
Some draining issue:
It did not look like your washer model has a built in pump suction filter/strainer that is cleanable ... but there could be some obstruction in the pump suction or in the hoses after the pump. Straighten drain hoses and eliminate kinked hoses.
Watch video if you want to inspect the pump and hoses
Have you tried unplugging it for 1 hour? Yup surprisingly
that is one of the answers for clearing out fault codes on this machine. Sure hope that it works even though you don't have a code a full hard reset may do it.
Best to you.
Hello,
I've owned the same Neptune since 1999 and had this problem happen to me twice, the first time the inside molded plastic door melted through in a circular pattern and had to be replaced. The fact that it was circular indicates that something was rubbing during the high speed spin. That something was a stiff bottomed duffle bag that was rubbing on the plastic door during high speed spin. The washer was full of other clothes that didn't allow the duffle bag enough room in the washer tub, hence it pressed against the plastic door. The second time it happened I got a circular groove melted in, but not through, the plastic door... caused this time by a small child's back pack. I would make sure "rigid" items have enough room to "float" in the tub cavity by not putting in other clothing that over packs the washer.
