Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like water valve is bad.

There are 2 items named as thermal fuse item #6 (307473) on heater page and #30 (306604) on the motor page There are 2 other items #11 (303396) Hi-limit on heater page and #26 (306911) operating t-stat on motor page. On electric unit when one of the thermal fuses fails or the hi-limit shorts open. It's recomended to replace all. The primary reason the thermals fail is due to vent restrictions. Inspect and test vent exhaust behind dryer and to the outside is free flowing and not crushed or excessively long. Inspect lint and blower housing for blockage.

Ric

You have a timer problem, the contacts are welded in spin mode. This is almost always caused by advancing the timer by hand when the dial is pulled out in the "ON" position, causing arcing of the contacts.

August 1997

Use a meter to test the water valve solenoid coils, make sure nobody turned the supply hoses off without you knowing. Did you recently replace the fill hoses or have work done on the machine? Maytag Washer Dryer Combo Water Inlet Valve WP22001274

Check that you have 220 volts. or see that the timer is not set to Air Fluff ( no Heat)
you may have a bad thermostat, or a broken
heater coil. or a broken belt.

Let's figure out what it's doing or not doing. From that, we can figure out how to make it do what it's SUPPOSED to do, or stop doing what it's NOT supposed to do. First... since it was stored, we can pretty safely assume that it was deemed to be suitable for storage - actually functional - when it was put there. Why else would one store it? So... tell us a little about what happens or doesn't happen. When you plug it in, connect the water, turn on the water, fill the machine with clothing, select a wash cycle, and turn it on... what happens? If NOTHING happens (the machine sits there dumb & silent), check the power outlet to be sure there's good power there. Plug a lamp into the outlet to prove it. If it hums and clicks but doesn't release any water to fill the tub, doublecheck your water supply. Prove that water does indeed come out of the taps. Also check the little screens in the water connections to the washer - are they clogged full of dirt and sand? Wasp mud nests (from storage)? If all looks well, look closely at the water control solenoids inside the washer. Check power there, verify solenoid operation. Next... if it fills but doesn't move, doesn't agitate, doesn't spin... check the motor. Verify power there, inspect the drive belt. If all is well up to this point but it doesn't drain, inspect the belt again and look closely at the pump. If it makes odd noises, look inside the back or bottom (or remove the top) and determine where those odd noises are coming from. You can track them down by ear (ears are marvelous directional finders for sounds) and hands and eyes. If you find the absence of power anywhere except in the power cord, look to the washer's control head. Trace power through it (for this a multimeter or AC test light is a handy tool). Keep us posted on what you're starting with and what you find.

Sounds like the belt is slipping, does it start slipping immediately? Try it without any clothes in it, it is definitely NOT a fuse.

There is a small glass fuse on the left inside the front panel. Replace it.

One of your water inlet valves are not closing all the way and needs to be replaced. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_a8261495ff0777e2

The slanted panel between washer and dryer remove lean in look behind top of washer on each side the is a clamp remove screws you should now be able to remove top cover of washer and access switch.

Is there water in the bowl? If so then check the drain pump for blockage. It won't spin until all the water is drained

It is normally at the back of the hinge of the lid. It is usually hidden in Maytag washers. Usually on the left side.

Dryer cover wont stay on

you have blocked filter

CHECK AND REPLACE THE QUIT BUTTON

If you hook it up to 120 volts (by connecting L2[red] to common [white] the dryer will operate, but your heating element will only produce 25% of the heat it would on a 220v circuit. The drying time would be about 3 hours, and the auto dry setting may not work. Heat difference is about 5000 watts of heat on 220v, vs 1250 watts on 120v circuit. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/perry_14036f9bc71cde6a

ON the side of the outer tub unit there is a small plastic/rubber hose that goes up to the level switch behind the panel. This sometime fills with water or blocks or is cracked and leaks out air. The purpose of this tube is to hold a pressure in it which increases as the water flows into the tub. This increase in pressure works against a spring tension which you adjust by selection the desired water level. As the water rises the air trapped in the tube reaches a point where the pressure overcomes the setting and allows the switch to turn off the water and move the machine on to the next cycle. Now if all that is working and the machine starts agitating and the water is still coming in then the fault will be in the water inlet solenoid valve . It will have a cracked diaphragm or dirt and will have to be replaced Probably why the machine works when you bash it.

how far down is the drain hose pushed in to the drain pipe?should only be like 3 to 4 inches,also the drain hose should be up higher than the water level in the tub.if you can pull out the drain hose try this,fill up the washer on small,after it fills,pull the hose out of the pipe and then stick the hose a few inches into the drain pipe and then turn the timer to the spin cycle and let it drain,after it stops,pull the drain hose out of the pipe,if no water enters back into washer you know that it has something to do with the way the drain hose is in the pipe or another problem.if you're saying that the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe in the wall you will have to get in there and separate it,pull out the hose and check it,it sounds like this is where the problem is,you had the pump changed and i don't know why the guy would do this if the washer was draining so you know that's not the problem and if they changed the water valve on the washer you know water isn't leaking into the washer from the valve so i would check the drain hose.hope this helps

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