everything else seems to work ok, but the clothes are sopping wet at the end of the cycle.
Posted by ragnor2847 on
My Maytag Neptune MAH5500B or MAH5500BWW wouldn't spin either. It would go all the way through the wash cycle, agitation and all, as mentioned before, the spin cycle would start at the 9 minute mark, and get down to the 7 minutes then drop directly to 0 with no spin at all.
After hours of investigation it turned out the balance load switch was corroded. This switch is accessible through the front panel of the washer. The door must be removed and the front panel comes off, this switch is directly under the wash drum where there is a little electrical plug and switch which rests on top of stabilizer styrofoam. The connection was being made but there was green corrosion, and evidently the switch box was corroded within. When bypassed, the washer spun perfectly.
Hope this helps someone else out there - I was horrified to think that this washer would end up more landfill as it wouldn't be worthwhile to pay hundreds for a new motor control board as had been suggested was the problem.
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
HOW TO FIX NF CODE IN MAYTAG WASHING MACHINE
Posted by MUBARIK... on
what happen if i changed both valves and still get nf code
Posted on Dec 02, 2012
Has anyone else had this problem? My washer doesn't want to drain out the excess water at the end of the rinse and spin cycle. It sometimes just stops and says do, or it will say end and when I pull the clothes out to put in the dryer, the clothes on the bottom are sopping wet. Have had repairman out for the second time today. I will start another load of laundry to see if he fixed the problem this time. He cleaned something out of the pump the first time and something like hair this time. Shouldn't there be some sort of catch for stuff like that so that it doesn't affect the pump?
Posted by lena lena on
Need to see a picture of how to take off the front loader
Posted on Jan 23, 2010
Error Code SUd5 - machine stops running and displays this code. Turn it off and restart it - error clears up but displays frequently during washes
Posted by blakefamil... on
Could be excessive detergent used
Posted on Aug 04, 2017
My Maytag (MAH5500B) gasket has mold..My mom has the same washer and her is broken..her gasket dosn't have any mold so I want to change the gasket. Do you know how to take out the drum and change the gasket? I don't want to take the washer apart more than I have to.
Posted by gasket on
Remove the door hinges and plastic covers on the unused hinge screw holes on the opposite side of the door opening (door is reversable, so there are places to mount hinges left and right). Front panel will now snap out at top and lift off lower spring clips. One screw on each side will now release top panel and it will hinge up. Prop up with broom handle or something. Now you can get at everthing. Rubber gasket is held onto drum with a cable loop and very strong spring. It rolls off the lip easily to disassemble but is VERY difficult to get back on without special tools or at least two people. We used strong vice grips and much struggling and sweat, and #@*&%!&@ and finally got it on without damage to the new gasket. Door side of rubber gasket is easy in comparison with rubber tabs inserted into slots and working the gasket into a groove. Hose clamp at bottom of rubber gasket to connect drain hose.
Posted on Sep 07, 2007
Using less soap. Always use HE type soap.
Posted by Joe Joe on
Unhook the water hoses at the wall and check to make sure the screens are free of debris. The pump is easy to access via the back panel--just two screws. There are blogs available that tell you how to check and replace the pump if necessary. Read all of them before you start. It is often the culprit. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 13, 2014
will not complete wash or any other cycle displaying "d o" assuming "door open" then "FL"???so wont operate... yet has been locked with wet load for two days now! tried on/off and even unplugging hoping would reset still no luck. Please Help! Thank You!
Posted by trevinofam on
The comment posted 14 may 2009 it what helped me. DO NOT PRY OPEN the door. Find the release cord inside the soap dispenser,,,you may have to remove the 4 screws and lift it from the washer like i did. I had to lean into the door and pull the cord to release the lock. It was not a system error. The washer was over loaded and although the door was closed and locked...the load pushed the door enough to indicate that it was open and would not wash. After opening the door, rearranging the load and removing some, the door closed and latched locked and was able to continue with the wash. DO NOT PRY OPEN,,,use the cord release first,,,this worked for me.
Posted on May 19, 2009
how to change the door boot on a maytag neptune washing machine
Posted by lady l on
Remove 2 screws holding door hinge to cabinet and remove door. Then remove 2 screws opposite these. Grab front panel with thumbs at area of screws you removed and pull outward with thumbs. Panel will pivot forward. Remove panel from lower clips. At top of exposed area remove 2 5/16 screws. Remove brackets under them.
Open dispenser and remove 4 screws. Careful not to drop in dispenser. Remove dispenser frame assembly.
You can now raise top of washer to a 90 degree position.
Now back to front exposed area. Grab boot where it contacts front and peel out of groove. Also remove two screws holding light assembly and remove cover. Remove all 5/16 screws holding front assembly and the ones on top area where it is on a bevel. Remove front assembly by folding up and onto top.
Now we are at the boot. Remove spring and wire assembly holding boot to drum. Make note on boot position and spring position. Remove boot. Install new boot onto drum. wrap wire around drum with ends at top. Now the fun! Hook spring to on end of wire and using vise-grips, pull to other end to hook into wire. It can be done, honest.
Now just reverse to reassemble. should be instructions with boot. Good luck!
Posted on Oct 21, 2007
i have a maytag neptune front load washer that doesn,t finish washing. the letters nf appears on the display screen & the washer stops until you hit the power button again
Posted by djuarren... on
The "nf" code is a "no-fill" fault. This indicates that your washing is not getting water supplied to it, or the pressure isn't substantial enough to complete a fill. You need to, first, make sure the water supply is turned on. Second, if the water IS turned on, and you're still not getting anything to your washer, you may have a fill valve problem. The fill valve is what both your hoses connect to on the back of the machine. It can become clogged with sediment over time (especially, if you have hard water or well water). Turn the water supply off and remove both hoses from the back of the washer. Check both these hose connections for clogs in the filter screens. If they are clear, then more than likely the fill valve has gone bad. I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 13, 2007
I have a problem with my Neptune. After reading all the info regarding the motor control board, etc., we are still trying to determine what we need. It looks like the boot tore and water got down in the bottom. Could this cause the problems - LR code and failed attempts to spin. It can spin freely if we move it and nothing looks burned or amiss on the motor board itself. We don't see anything that looks like a fuse down in this area (bottom right) of the washer. Once it all dries out is it possible that the machine will work again as normal? What should we do?
Posted by kerijean1 on
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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