ICE MAKER not making iceInspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.
WATER INLET VALVE:Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.
The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part. (HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:
If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.
If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.
This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced
On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFh8aa7asvwhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPeZ29XdX5Uhttp://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.htmlGod is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!Refrigerator Leaking From Icemaker
If it's leaking from inside the freezer then it's coming from the icemaker or the drain. Lets start with the icemaker. If it's the icemaker there will likely be an ice hanging from the icemaker or just a big block of ice in the ice bin. In any case, it will be obvious.
There are a few reasons this will happen: one is the icemaker will stop turning when it gets to the fill cycle. This will happen when the gears in the icemaker break. On GE icemakers that were made before the year 2000, you can see the gears by taking off the cover on the front of the icemaker. However, if the small gear is broke you can't buy it as far as I know. I have been taking them off of junk icemakers for years. So this part may be hard to find. But if the big gear is broke replace it. Another reason icemakers leak is the fill tube is stopped up and I already discussed this earlier (replace water valve and clean out tube).
Another reason icemakers leak is that the water comes in too fast so it over fills the first cube mold. When this happens you will get a few drops of water when it fills. To fix this you have to take the icemaker out and remove the piece on the side of the icemaker. I don't know the name of it so for this we'll call it cube separator because that's what it does (most of them just snap off others have a screws). Now take silicone (RTV) and put a small amount around the first cube mold only under the cube separator. Now reinstall the cube separator and wipe off excess silicone and it shouldn't leak anymore.
Another reason that icemakers leak is that the refrigerator water valve sticks after the icemaker goes out of the fill cycle. When this happens the valve stays on and the icemaker keeps on turning, in which case, replace the refrigerator water valve.
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Fridge keeps beeping or buzzing: The following is for Frigidaire models but others can be addressed similarly.
Several Frigidaire refrigerator models have an electronic control panel on the freezer door the owner can use to adjust the internal temperature, dispense ice and water and receive notification about issues such as the need to replace a water filter. The refrigerators also emit a beep for various actions and as an occasional alarm. Determining what causes the beeps necessitates some troubleshooting.
Temperature Controls
·A Frigidaire refrigerator's display panel blinks when the control panel is touched to set temperature controls. After pressing "Freezer Temp" or "Refrigerator Temp" on the keypad, press the arrow buttons within five seconds to increase or decrease the desired temperature. If you do not press the arrow buttons within five seconds after pressing "Freezer Temp" or "Refrigerator Temp" on the keypad, the refrigerator beeps to indicate the current setting will stay in place.
Door Open
·When you leave the refrigerator or freezer door open, the refrigerator beeps. Also, the "Door Ajar" indicator illuminates on the appliance's display panel. Shutting the door and pressing "Alarm Reset" stops the beeping and turns off the "Door Ajar" indicator light.
·The Frigidaire refrigerator has a control lock feature that prevents use of its control panel or dispensers when the unit is locked. When the control lock is active, a beep sounds when a keypad or dispenser is pressed. Release the control lock by pressing the "Control Lock" icon for three seconds. A beep will sound, and the icon's light will go out.
Power Reset
·A power reset is occasionally necessary if the Frigidaire refrigerator's control panel does not work normally or a reset function on the keypad does not work. A power reset involves disconnecting power to the refrigerator by unplugging its power cord from the electrical outlet, waiting 30 seconds and plugging the power cord back into the electrical outlet. When the control panel resets, a beep sounds. If the refrigerator beeps even after a power reset and the beeps' source is not known, contact Frigidaire.
Read more :
Cause of Beeping Noise in Frigidaire Refrigerator eHowRefrigeration System Basics Chapter 1
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting
Check that the return air duct near the bottom of the fridge is not blocked. The air may be going into the fridge but cant get out. It has to complete a cycle where it gets drawn back into the freezer to get cold and then gets blown back into the food compartment. The baffle controls how much or how little cold air goes in. You may have to take the rear panel off the inside of the freezer, there may an ice buildup in there.
I think you mixed the F and the D in the model# so it should read MFD2561HES instead.
There are a few things that can cause an ice maker to stop working. Firstly, would be the temperature inside the freezer not being cold enough. It should be as close to 0' F as possible.
There is an inline fuse that sometimes, but rarely blows. When you changed the icemaker, did it come with a new harness or did you swap the one off the old icemaker onto the new one? Removing the harness and ohming the black wire ( The one with the white piece that clips onto the bottom of the icemaker) will determine if that fuse is still good. Without knowing what happened to the old icemaker, I would not rule that out!
More commonly, The water solenoid goes bad and will let the icemaker cycle without giving it water. Sometimes it goes completely dead while most often it fails to close completely. When this happens, it allows water to "drip" and usually freezes inside the water fill tube. ( Think of your kitchen faucet.. When they start to go bad, they will not shut off and needs to be jiggled to stop it from dripping) If this happens, the fill tube will need to be defrosted after a new valve has been installed. Defrosting the fridge is recommended as you can damage the inside if you use a hairdryer or some other form of rapid heat.
The sizzling sound you hear is most likely the fridge in its defrost cycle. During this time, you would not hear it running and it would get louder when the freezer drawer is opened. It would sound similar to water drops hitting a hot stove. This is completely normal and happens randomly! Do not panic over this!
It may help to take the ice maker plastic unit out of the refrigerator and rinse with warm water, then dry. There may be ice blocking the flap from closing. Also, check to see that the plastic unit is fully seated as it should be in the refrigerator itself.
Unplug it for a couple of minutes, Try again. It may have been hit with a surge. IF that is the case, you are looking at main control board and some money. Contact your homeowners insurance if a surge has damaged it.
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting
