20 Most Recent Maytag MFD2561HE Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - Page 3 Questions & Answers

you can add water filter. It is installed on supply line. go to Home Depot and pick up a refrigerator water filter kit with accessories.

inspect the ice make to check for any sign of visible damage or misalignment, .and unplug the fridge and plug it again

Matthew...you sure you have the Model# right? Cuz Google comes up with Zip..Zilch with that #.? :)

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer. God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.

The Maytag Model MSD2651KES is a side-by-side refrigerator. It does not have a traditional drip pan underneath like some other refrigerator models. Instead, it uses a drain system to collect and channel condensation and defrost water. The condensation and defrost water from the freezer section of the refrigerator typically flow down through a drain hole and into a drain pan or trough located at the bottom of the refrigerator. This drain pan is usually not accessible from the outside and does not require regular maintenance or emptying. If you are experiencing any issues with water leakage or pooling around your Maytag refrigerator, it is recommended to check the drain system for any blockages or clogs. Ensure that the drain hole is clear and that the water can flow freely through the system. If you suspect a problem with the drain system, it is advisable to consult the refrigerator's user manual or contact Maytag customer support for specific guidance on troubleshooting and resolving the issue.

Either the compressor is broken or is now compromised.The compressor needs to now be replaced for your fridge.

Water is pooling at the bottom of your refrigerator because the drain in the freezer is clogged, probably with ice. You need to turn of the refrigerator and empty the freezer. Remove the cover in the bottom of the freezer by first removing the back cover of the freezer and then the bottom cover. You will probably see it full of ice. Remove this ice by chipping, or if you have time, let it thaw. Then, located the drain in the back of the compartment below the coils, and thaw it. You can use a hair dryer for this. Eventually, you will see the water drain, and you can dry everything up and put it back together. You should have no more problems. If you do, then you need to look at testing the defroster.

If you have replaced the HV control board on your Maytag MFI2067AES refrigerator and programmed the code from your refrigerator, but the code is not being saved, there could be a few possible causes:

1. Wrong board: It's possible that you may have installed the wrong control board for your refrigerator model. Make sure to double-check the part number and compatibility before installing a new control board.
2. Improper programming: Make sure that you are properly programming the control board with the correct code. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and ensure that you are entering the code correctly.
3. Control board issue: It's possible that the control board itself may be defective and is unable to save the code. Try resetting the control board to factory defaults and reprogramming it with the correct code. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the control board again.
4. Other issues: There could be other issues with your refrigerator that are preventing the code from being saved, such as a faulty user interface or a problem with the door switch. You may need to perform further diagnosis or seek the help of a qualified repair technician to identify and fix the issue.

It's possible that the issue is with the control board and not just the control panel. Before replacing the control board, here are a few things you can check:

1. Make sure the control panel is properly connected to the control board. Check the connections and make sure they are secure.
2. Check for any damaged wires or connectors. Look for any signs of damage, such as frayed wires or loose connectors.
3. Check the voltage to the control board. Use a multimeter to check the voltage at the control board. If there is no voltage, there may be an issue with the wiring or power supply.
4. Check the fuses on the control board. If the fuses are blown, the control board will not function properly.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, it's possible that the control board is faulty and needs to be replaced. However, it's important to note that diagnosing and repairing electrical issues can be dangerous and should only be attempted by qualified professionals. If you're not comfortable working with electrical components, it's best to seek the help of a certified technician.

Water collecting and freezing on the floor of your freezer compartment is likely due to a clogged or frozen defrost drain. When the refrigerator goes through a defrost cycle, the melted ice and frost should drain through the defrost drain and into the drip pan underneath the refrigerator. However, if the drain is clogged or frozen, the water will collect on the freezer floor and eventually freeze. To fix this issue, you will need to clear the defrost drain. Here are the steps to do so:

1. Unplug the refrigerator to avoid any electrical hazards.
2. Locate the defrost drain at the back of the freezer compartment. It may be covered with ice or debris, so you may need to remove the freezer drawer and any shelves to access it.
3. Clear the drain using a turkey baster or a small funnel to pour hot water down the drain. You can also use a pipe cleaner or a wire to remove any clogs.
4. Once the drain is cleared, you can clean the inside of the freezer with a solution of warm water and baking soda to remove any odors.
5. Finally, plug the refrigerator back in and allow it to cool down before placing the food back in the freezer.

If you're unsure about performing these steps, or if the issue persists after clearing the drain, it's best to consult a professional appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the problem.

Here you go...watch the video on how to replace the timer... https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/b4/Maytag-Parts?query=MSD2654FR&searchwithin=defrost%20timer

The crack in the sliding track of your Maytag MSD 2352 ice bucket may be a contributing factor to the ice build up and auger freezing issue. The crack could be allowing moisture to enter and freeze, causing the build up. It is recommended to have the crack repaired or the sliding track replaced to help prevent the ice build up and auger freezing. If you are not comfortable with this repair, it is best to contact a professional technician for assistance.

The issue with your refrigerator turning off and then coming back on could be due to a problem with the control panel or the main control board. Here are a few steps you can try:

1. Check the wiring: If the wiring connecting the control panel and main control board is damaged, it can cause the machine to shut down. Check the wiring and connections for any damage, and repair or replace as necessary.
2. Reset the control board: If the main control board is damaged, it can cause the machine to shut down. You can try to reset the control board by unplugging the machine from the electrical outlet for a few minutes and then plugging it back in. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the control board.
3. Check the thermostat: The thermostat may be damaged or malfunctioning, causing the refrigerator to turn off and then come back on. You can test the thermostat by checking the resistance with a multimeter. If the resistance is not within the manufacturer's specifications, you may need to replace the thermostat.

If you're not comfortable with the above steps, it's best to contact a qualified repair technician for assistance. Also, be sure to confirm the code needed to program the new control panel before installing it.

If your MSS25C4MGZ00 Maytag refrigerator's icemaker is not getting water, here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot and fix the problem:

1. Check the water supply: Make sure that the water supply valve to the refrigerator is fully open and not restricted. Also, check that the water supply line is not kinked or frozen.
2. Check the water filter: A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the ice maker. Replace the water filter with a new one and check if the icemaker starts working.
3. Check the water inlet valve: The water inlet valve controls the flow of water to the ice maker. If the valve is defective, it may not open to allow water to flow to the ice maker. You can check the valve for continuity with a multimeter, if there is no continuity the valve needs to be replaced.
4. Check the icemaker control module: The icemaker control module controls the operation of the ice maker. If the module is defective, the icemaker will not function. Check the continuity of the module with a multimeter, if there is no continuity the module needs to be replaced.
5. Check the water pressure: Ensure that the water pressure to the refrigerator is between 20-120 psi. If the water pressure is too low, the water valve may not open to allow water to flow to the ice maker.

If you are not comfortable working on your own, it is recommended to contact a qualified technician to diagnose and fix the problem. It is important to note that troubleshooting and repairing a refrigerator can be dangerous, so it's important to follow safety precautions and make sure you are familiar with the appliance before attempting to fix it yourself.

I would remove the track, clean both surfaces and stick it with clear silicone or superglue Gel. Leave it 24 hours to set.

if voltage to compressor then bad compressor it was drawing too much amps thats why the start up capacitor went

Check out the video https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+refrigerator+model+number+msd2641keu+remove+door+handle ..

Program code is located on the serial plate

Press and hold the Door Alarm keypad.

Press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad within 3 seconds.

Release the door alarm keypad and wait 3 seconds.

The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.

Press the Freezer Temperature Down once more.

The control will display the current Program Code. This should be the same as the program code on the serial plate. If the code is correct, press the Door Alarm keypad for three seconds to exit.

Press the Refrigerator Temperature Up keypad or Refrigerator Temperature down keypad to change the digit value. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up keypad to select the next digit. Once the correct program has been entered, press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad until the program code begins flashing indicating it’s been saved. Exit the programming mode by pressing any key.