20 Most Recent LG LRSPC2031 Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

2 possible problems.  
#1 water valve for the water side is stuck in the closed position.  Only way to tell is to pull the bottom kick panel out and look for the water line disconnect.  Separate the line, close the door and try to draw water through the dispenser.  If the water comes out of the disconnected line, then the water valve is good.
#2  if water is coming out of disconnected line, then the problem is in the freezer door.  There is a heater that keeps the water line from freezing inside the freezer door.  It is not repairable!!  The freezer door has to be replaced.

Those have dual water solenoid a one can work but not the other make sure they are both plugged in also

There is a defrost heater in the freezer. First, you will have to find the schematic for the refrigerator. If your model has a plastic cover on the top where power goes in, the schematic may be glued to the inside of that cover. Look for something that says "DEF HEATER" or similar. At that point, you have to decide whether the heater element is bad, or whether there is no power supplied to it. The latter is more likely. Take off the connector plug on the control board that goes to the heater. Use an ohmmeter to check whether the heater element is open. If it is, then that's the problem. If not, then look for a test switch on the control board to force the heater on. Press that switch, and measure the voltage at the output terminals to see if the board is attempting to drive the heater. If not, the problem might be a bad relay somewhere, or you could just replace the whole control board, at higher cost.

No water AND no ice suggests that the problem is either in the main water solenoid right where the water comes into the refrigerator, or in the water supply from the wall/floor.It's easier to check the wall supply, so here's what I would do. If there is a shutoff valve on the wall, then use that to turn off the water, disconnect the water supply line from the refrigerator, then while pointing the supply line into a bucket, turn the water on again to see how much flows. If there is no shutoff on the wall, then turn off the whole house water, and do the same procedure.If it's not the wall supply, then listen for a clicking sound, then it's time to check the solenoid, or the relay driving the solenoid.

Whoops.
I think you have done all that you shouldn't do.
Time to take a deep breath, pick up the phone and call an LG service technician

Since you have a problem with the ice maker and water dispenser the problem is with the water inlet valve on the back of the freezer where the water supply connects to it. There is a mesh screen there that can get partially stopped up by sediment in the water supply. Turn the water supply off either under the sink or behind the freezer depending on your hook up. Take the lines off from the dual water inlet valve and see what kind of flow you have when someone tries the water dispenser. This will let you know if the valve is opening all the way. It should be good after you clean out the screen on the other side of the water inlet valve.

Hi; is the refer. still under warranty. Ask the people You ordered the part from. Also sounds like the touch pad has been pushed too hard or to many times over the years and might need to be replaced...alpharome416

Try pulling the cover off in the back of the fridge and see if the fan is still operating when you push the light sensor switch in but hold it down for at least 10-20seconds to see if it starts.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

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You just pull it out 12" so the door will open fully.

Happened to me, too. I hadn’t placed the top hinge covers back on after removing the doors to move the fridge. The sensors that tell the fridge the doors are closed are in the hinge covers.

Error code list is given on LG Official website LG Refrigerator - Error Code List ' LG USA Support Error code P5 is not listed in error code list. Please mention exact error code.

It appears that it doesn't. It appears to have a Thermistor and a heater. That would mean timing comes from the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=LG+LFXS28968S+defrost+timer ..

Do you have a test meter to check if the power button is working and has continuity? My advice with a suspected control board is always to get professional diagnosis due to the cost or control boards. It would be a shame to buy one and find it doesn't fix the issue. ..

unplug the power for 10 minutes then plug it back in. this seems to work on mine,

While the LG AEQ57518210 and LG 5989JA0002Y ice makers may appear similar and have the same adapter, it's important to note that using a different ice maker model than the one specified by the manufacturer can have potential risks and consequences. Refrigerators are designed with specific components, including ice makers, that are tested and engineered to work together as a system. Using a different model ice maker may lead to the following issues:

1. Compatibility Issues: Even if the adapter fits, there might be compatibility issues between the different ice maker models and your refrigerator. The electrical connections, mounting points, and water supply might not align properly, causing installation difficulties or functionality problems.
2. Performance and Quality: Ice makers are designed with specific performance and quality standards. Using a different model ice maker might lead to subpar ice production, inconsistent ice quality, or even no ice production at all.
3. Leakage or Water Damage: Improperly fitted or incompatible ice makers could result in water leakage, which can cause damage to the refrigerator, flooring, or surrounding areas.
4. Electrical or Wiring Issues: Different ice maker models might have different electrical requirements or wiring configurations. Mismatched electrical connections could lead to electrical problems or even pose safety risks.
5. Voiding Warranty: If your refrigerator is still under warranty, using non-standard parts like an incompatible ice maker might void the warranty.
6. Long-Term Reliability: While the initial cost savings might be tempting, using an incompatible ice maker could lead to long-term reliability issues for your refrigerator.

ck out these sites.... https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/2155228?symptoms=51 https://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-lg-lfxs28968s-00.html They both have parts and videos on installing them. Before you go throwing parts at it, give them a call at their 800#s to talk with a tech. I'm not affiliated with them. I just have used them to repair appliances in our home and rental units. And always found them helpfull. Best to you.