Top 10 LG TROMM WM2688H 4.0 cu.ft. Front Loading SteamWasher Questions & Answers

I TOO HAVE BEEN WONDERING HOW TO SPIN ONLY, AND I HAVE THE ANSWER :),, TURN THE POWER BUTTON ON, PUSH THE SPIN SPEED BUTTON NEXT TO DESIRED LEVEL, THEN PRESS START, THERE YOU GO , IT WILL ONLY SPIN, NOT RINSE AND SPIN :), BY THE WAY , I GOT THIS INFO FROM THE ONLINE MANUAL :), SHOULD WORK....

This is caused by the "Fabric Softer" removable tray inside the drawer getting stuck in the top of the drawer cabinet.
Solution:
1. Unplug machine
2. Remove four sheet metal screws and plastic plates from top of back of machine that hold the "lid" on (perhaps yours is different and only has two screws, but that's your world :) )
3. With the palm of either hand hit the both sides of the lid of the machine at about a 45 degree angle towards the back of the machine until the lid slides back about 4 inches
4. Gently remove lid (will lift off easily if you've freed it correctly)
5. On left you'll see a white box which is the cabinet for the drawer. Carefull pull the black wire from it's retainers
6. Lift up the three clips on the right side of the cabinet that hold it together
7. In the back of the cabinet, grab ahold of the plastic piece that doesn't have a hose attached (unless yours does, in which case figure it out yourself :) ) and gently pull up until you can see the cabinet coming apart in the back.
8. When you have enough clearence push a screwdriver through the opening you've created while lifting on the back of the cabinet apart, and PRESTO! The drawer will pop out.

This will happen everytime from now on if you do not remove the the "fabric softner" tray from the drawer. It is a design flaw that will happen to all models eventually. If you must have that little tray, then find a solution that works and post a follow up here (I imagine it will involve a bench grinder :) )

HAPPY WASHING AND BUY AMERICAN!!!

We run a small hotel and have been having this same problem with our LG Direct Drive WM2301HW... but the stains aren't grease at all... they're from sledge buildup in the washer. I found this out when I cleaned the lint trap behind the small door at the bottom left, on front of the machine. I ran my finger around the interior and found it lined with black, stinky muck. Due to the low position of the filter, this area never fully drains, so the muck collects and the bacteria grows. Of course, this means the pipes or hoses to the filter are probably also lined with this muck.... Poor design!!! Try running the washer empty (no clothes) with a couple cups of honest to goodness chlorine bleach. Then run it again to make sure all the stuff that came loose gets pumped out.

All of the ways to solve this problem are right on--take the filter out (in front on the bottom left when facing the machine). Before you do, take time to drain out the water with the hose below. Once drained open the filter and clean out. Try on speed wash with no spin. Nine minutes in you will know if the drain works. If not, turn on side and remove the washer pump. To do this, remove the hoses first starting with clamps. Then remove the three screws in front where the filter is. It easily comes out. The top pump is the drain pump. First mark the wires--blue is positive and black is negative. Remove the pump and clean out.The pump comes out of the casing. Try removing this and cleaning. If you have a power source, test the pump. If works, put back and start in fast cycle with no spin. If not, then you have to replace the drain pump. You will not find anyone in town the has the pump unless you live in New York or Dallas Texas. To get the pump at a reasonable price and expedited call and order through Sears at 18004881222. These guys are good and well get it to you as promised. The entire job once recieved the pump took about 30 minutes. Also, saved about $100 in labor. Good luck and hope this helps...

I think your "OE" is really a "DE" or drain error. Open the access door on the lower left of the front panel on the machine, drain the remaining water with the small drain hose there, and unscrew and remove the larger thing, which is a filter. Clean filter. If filter was not blocked, check for loose impeller on drain pump motor, which requires replacement of drain pump motor. (just sticking it back on will result in it coming off again)
If this helps, a "fixya" rating would be appreciated. Thanks.

if you can call lg and have them ship you the part its not all that bad of a job, a little patience but not that terrible.. theres a spring under the rim around the front of the unit holding the boot to the unit, you can "roll" this one off.then once removed youll gain acees to the rear spring holding the rear of the boot to the outer basket.(honestly cant remember if its a simple spring or a screw that holds the inner spring in place), but it will be apperant when you remove it. reverse teh steps and your good to go. its a liitle like changing a bike tire as a kid, youll need to work it around the rim, and itll pop off a few times, but as you see how it works youl get it( might take 45 min-1hour) remember patience.

If you're not used to seeing water come down the front of the inner glass portion, then your return tube, and/or gasket drainage is most likely clogged. I have the LG WM2277HW front loader and this is what worked for me:

1. Locate water recirculating outlet at the top inside of the gray rubber door gasket- it will have a white plastic piece that directs the water flow inward.

2. Check for blockage at that outlet. Mine had one about 2 inches long. Pull it out with your fingers or tweezers.

3. Check the 3 small rectangular drain holes at the bottom of the gasket; make sure they're not plugged up as well. This is where the smelly water pools from bacterial growth

4. Run through a sanitizing cycle- no detergent, just bleach and watch for more blockage that might come out the tube from the top...it collects on the glass before falling all the way in. Don't wash any clothes before this step, or the gunk will end up in your load.


Hope that helps...pictures posted.

I had the same problem. LG addressed the problems as follows:
1. Unplug the unit 2. Press and hold the power button for 10 seconds. 3. Plug the unit back in.
It WORKS!! It's like reseting your computer or alarm clock. You've got to kill the power and press and hold the on button while it's still unplugged.
Hope this works for you.

IE= Inlet Error. I have struggled with this problem. After much trial and error it appears that it is due to my well water. People who have city water will probably not have this problem with this machine. Well water or hard water buyers beware. This machine is VERY much a primadonna princess capable of stopping your rinse cycle at the slightest imperfections. This is the Princess and the Pea of Washers... but I have a series of possible solutions that will have you appreciating her primadonna superiority once again.

Troubleshooting... Listen.... Does she sound like she is struggling and no water is coming in? If so then it isn't. The cycles will last forever as she makes all sorts of grunting noises. Something is preventing the water from coming in. It could also be that the pressure in to the washer is under 55 psi.

a. I have adjusted the pressure in the pumphouse to allow for minor fluctuations so that the machine will have at least 55 psi.

b. Take off the hot and cold inlet hose and clean the screen at the back of the washer. The two screens are supposed to come out of the male receptacles. They are fragile... beware. I use a squirt bottle/atomizer to clean these screens as mine chipped and will not budge.

c. You can add a screen just off the faucets so that you don't have to move the machine each and every time you get an IE error. This helps but does not solve.

d. I installed a faucet filter that I bought from Home Depot in the PVC sprinkler's section. They are made of a black plastic material and can easily cross thread, so be careful. They look about the size of a one liter container and unscrew midway to reveal a removable cylindrical mesh filter. This makes it possible to widen the surface area where tiny particles can be trapped without totally blocking flow to the inlet sensor. :-) When installing this make sure to completely rinse the hoses, and all screens coming into the machine. I took the shortcut first and thought my idea had failed only to discover that the screen behind the washer was partially blocked.

e. Periodically remove the filter and clean. Depending on the quality of your water, you may need to do this at all the points that have a screen.

I now have a screen washer between the sprinkler system filter and hose and the one that comes installed inside the male ends of the inlets for the water hoses. This has helped enormously.

f. Another possible offender is the soap and softener dispenser. To remove and clean press down on the plastic toggle piece on the soap side, the whole drawer should slide off and clean. Non-HE detergents and softeners can create a buildup of gooey gunk. Just clean it. Inside the drawer space you can clean to increase flow. I use baby wipes.

g. Make sure that the filter on the bottom is free from obstructions. If there is water in the drum, you will be flooded if you remove. This is a last resort after all the inlet lines have been cleaned and cleared.

Note: It doesn't take much to lower the flow of water to the point that this machine will not run. Since you cannot override the computer on it to run a spin cycle or even advance to remove water it can be highly frustrating. I've learned to obey my machine and just clear every last possible inlet.

Best of luck.

LE indicates the motor is locked. Check the 3 pin connector at the motor and check the 4 pin connector at the main control if they look good ( no corrosion and fit tight) replace the Hall Sensor. You can enter your model # at www.appliancehelponline.com for diagrams and illustrations.