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Weather King 10AJA4201AH Air Conditioner Questions & Answers
The unit out side is
Is the outside unit on but the fan isn't running? If so, it could be a capacitor issue. Go to the back of your outside unit and look inside the access panel with the electrical warning sticker on it, if the capacitor is bowed up at the top, it needs to be replaced. If it turns out to be the capacitor, follow this link for a new capacitor replacement kit, it will save you hundreds of more dollars than calling an HVAC repair company to charge you an arm and a leg. The kit also comes with the proper tools and parts needed as well as detailed instructions on how to replace the part yourself.
http://hvacrepairkits.com/index.php/content/article/68I hope this helps!
A/C fan on but the
Hi,
Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool...
AirConditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities
heatman101
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My capicitor is obviously bad
Scott,
You have a 3 1/2 ton unit. A safe rule of thumb would be 45 mfd on the compressor, and 7.5 mfd on the fan motor. If you have a amp meter, you can replace the capacitor, clamp the amp meter around the compressor common wire, and make sure the amperage is less than RLA . Same on the motor. You can find RLA (running load amps) on the data sticker of the unit. Hope this helps. Mark
How many pounds of freon
The amount of refrigerant an a/c system takes is dependent on the size of the condenser coil, the size of the evaporator coil and the size and length of the line set. There is no way to tell you exactly without knowing all of those things. I can tell you that a typical residential system will hold between 5 and 8 pounds of refrigerant but your's could hold more or less depending upon the above stated factors.
What is the name of
Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.
air induction sensor switch...tells if you air intake blower is working and air is coming from the outside...
I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck
Our furnace runs great all day, but at night and
Hello
Sounds like the t sat may be faulty or have a bad anticipator,usually there is a 2 to 4 degree swing before the unit will start.
Also have a look at the location of the stat is it very close to anything giving off heat?If this is a programable stat try reprograming it or check what you have it set for.
Weather king inside electric unit
He shorted the Transformer and lost all the 24v low voltage controls. This could have possibly been a loose wire in the T-stat or even a defective T-stat. It could have even been a reversing valve in some cases. Unit would only run auxillary heat bank in on position.
Fan stopped working
Try to turn the fan by use of a long screw driver or other object. If it feels like it is siezed or getting very hard to move then the fan motor needs replaced. If it turns freely I would replace the capacitor and if that does not solve it then replace the fan motor too! Capacitors are cheap and fan motors are $80 to $120 average!
My rudd ac quit working
opened
Hello That is the START capasitor,disconnect it & get and install a HARD START KIT on the run capasitor.It is a simple 2 wires that plug on the run cap and will do the job of the defective factory one.
We have our air conditioner set at 75 degrees in
First, check your air filters!!! Then check your indoor and outdoor coils and clean them if necessary. There is a cleaner you can get for the indoor coil that you do not have to rinse off. For the outdoor coil, the cleaner will have to be rinsed. It's best to rinse it from the inside outwards. If none of this helps then you may need to get your refrigerant charge checked. Another thing to keep in mind is that air conditioning units have a design temperature of 90F. When ever the temperature gets over that you may feel a little uncomfortable.
Filter location
If the filter is not under the furnace, you might check the return air grill. This is called a filter grill. If you do not find one there you may have a problem and will need to install one. running without a filter can cause problems.
My unit stopped blowing cold and started blowing
100 degree temps/high humidity puts an extreme load on air conditioners - but if everything is right with the AC - 'overheating is not a big problem.
The first thing I would check is whether or not the compressor is running. Customers will typically say the 'outside unit' is running - when in actuality it's a good bet that your compressor, which is the 'heart' of the system and located in the the condensing unit/outiside unit - 'is not' running.
To check and see if it is or not is a simple process.
However, you need to understand that there are two distinct noises comng from the outside unit. First is the "fan motor" and the noise it makes which is mostly the sound of the air blowing; Second is the compressor - which makes a low rumbling/vibrating sort of noise and is easily picked up by someone who works on AC's everyday.
However, this noise (of the compressor) is easily swallowed up by the fan motor's 'air' noise, which results in the average customer thinking the outside unit is running when in actuality (as I've mentioned above) - only - the fan motor is running.
The easiest way to tell if the compressor is running is to 'listen real carefully' when you turn the unit on (have someone turn it on with the inside thermostat while you are at the unit itself) - and pay attention for the 'low rumbling/vibrating sound' of the compressor when it comes on - most always - at the exact same time the fan motor comes on. In your case - I don't believe the compressor is running - which is the reason why the air is not cool/cold.
'IF" - however, you are unable to determine if the compressor is running by hearing it - you can always "feel the refrigerant lines." There are two lines (copper) coming from your outside unit. The 'bigger one' is called the 'suction line' and is usually wrapped in - insulation, usually black in color and may have 'tie strips' holding it on the line. This 'insulation' is on there because this line gets "cold" and condensates (in the warm/hot outside air) like a 'cold bottle of beer' after you take it out of the refrigerator. When the AC is operating correctly you will be able to grasp this "bare" (pull back/cut off the insulation) copper line with your hand - and feel the 'coldness' - "if" the unit is operating correctly. (When first starting give it a minute or two to begin to get cool/cold.) The 'other line' is called the 'liquid line' and typically will feel warm/very warm - when the AC is operating correctly.
So.. by feeling of these two lines (when the AC is running) you can 'usually' tell - whether or not the compressor is running or not.
Note: there is a condition that will 'fool' you once in awhile - and that is if the unit is 'out/very low on refrigerant.' In this case the 'noise' of the compressor will be very, very low and the refrigerant lines will be neither cold or warm. In any event - you can always 'feel' the compressor running/vibrating by laying your hand on the compressor (Caution: it can be very hot), or by stickina long screwdriver against the compressor like a stethascope and feeling it (feel for the vibration of the compressor running) to see if it's running. Also - 'if the compressor is running' when you check it - I would bet it's out of refrigerant and will need a Service Tech to find the leak and recharge the unit.
Anyway... by using the above tips you should be able to determine whether or not your compressor is running - and as I've said - I don't think it is.
So - if you are able to determine that the compressor "is not" running - then the next question is 'why not?'
Reason 1 - there is something mechanically/electrically wrong with the compressor that will take a Service Tech to diagnose, i.e. low on gas, bad valves, etc. etc.
Reason 2 - there is an condition(s) causing it to not run that 'you' might be able to correct.
a) the outside unit (coil) could be very dirty. If it is - take a water hose (Cautiion; be sure all electrical is turned off - including inside thermostat) and clean/wash the coil. Understand the condenser coil on an air conditioner is similar to a radiator on a car and must clean so that air can easily flow over it. Partially disassemble the unit if need be - to make sure "both" sides of the coil is clean.
b) a 'wire' to the compressor has burnt into. I don't know how 'mechanically inclined' you are but if you find a wire burnt off one of the connections (there are typically three connections) you can 'repair' it, i.e. replace the 'spade' on the end of the wire and put it back on the connection it burnt off - fairly easily. Note: this possiblility (wire burnt off compressor terminal) while possible is not very likely - but something I would check. The compressor typically has a little plastic cuplike cover held on by a metal clip. Just pop the clip off and remove the cover and look in there to see if a wire has burnt off one of the terminals. REMEMBER to have all the electrical off.
c) there is wire - burnt into - somewhere in the unit that is causing the compressor to not run. Here, all you can do is 'visually' look for a obvious burnt wire. Sometimes (but rarely), a wire might burn off the contactor. If this is the problem - you should be able to spot it visually and then with a little work repair the wire.
Hope this helps but bear in mind - the chances are real good that you will need the help of a Service Tech to figure out and correct your problem.
Good Luck!
My weatherking outside compressor isn't big enough
if your indoor unit is 1.5 ton the answer is no
if your indoor unit is 2.0 ton then you can jump to that size.
Note :your duct system may have been designed for a 1.5 ton and may need to be reconfigured for a size increase.
Your hvac contractor should know this?
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