Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

most likely defective, test it with a meter for ohms and replace if bad

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE: If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle. This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing. To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed. If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. TIMER If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing. Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

could be like this one

Hello.Noises are common when using a two-in-one washer and dryer, as clicking or whirring is part of the cleaning process during the transition to the next cleaning process. The GE Spacesaver washer and dryer combo uses a top-loading washer stacked beneath the front-loading dryer, and uses an agitator that makes noises throughout the spin cycle. Although whirring or clicking is normal, other noises or malfunction indicates a problem with the washer that requires minor troubleshooting. Professional repair is necessary if the washer continues to experience problems during the spin cycle, as there may be a problem with the washer's agitator.1 Open the washer's door and check the balance of the load's clothes. Clothes that are unevenly distributed around the agitator cause excessive shaking and result in an imbalance during the spin cycle. Reduce the load's size by removing clothing if the washer's drum is overloaded.2 Push "Start/Pause" to pause the spin cycle and turn the washer's cycle knob to the "Off" position. Turn the knob to "Spin Only" and press "Start/Pause" to reset the cycle.3 Turn the wrench counterclockwise or clockwise around the unit's legs to adjust the appliance's balance. The legs are adjustable with the help of a wrench to ensure the unit does not shake while in use. An unleveled unit shakes as it spins, and causes excessive squealing or rattling as it attempts to dry the clothes.4 Touch "Start/Pause" on the front of the washer's control panel and unplug the washer/dryer unit's power cord from the electric oultlet. Wait two minutes and plug the power cord back into the electric outlet. Push "Start/Pause" to resume the spin cycle.Thanks.

Residue builds up no matter what the manufactures claim. Once in a while, remove the detergent drawer. Pull it out gently until it stops. then push down on the black tab at the washing machine end of the drawer and while pushing down, pull the drawer totally out. Take it to the sink and wash it out with an old toothbrush.

check the pump for a blockage.................. cheers

Fault 70 indicate bad connection on ccu control unit. Unplug power before opening the lid

remove lid its fiddly but can b done from top

check door inter lock

its the door lock, you can turn the power off, and there is a video on utube on how to fix it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BsaIsSlxNY

a blockage in the pump could make this happen,.......check the pump for a bockage...... cheers

check the pump for a blockage.......... cheers

central control unit

a bad water inlet valve?

a bad water inlet valve try unplugging machine and see if it still does it? if it doesnt do it when unplugged then u have an electrical signal problem from eiither control board or timer if it keeps doing it when unplugged its ur water inlet valve

CLOGGED HOSES OR WATER PUMP

UNPLUG FOR A FEW MINUTES THEN PLUG BACK IN WITH MACHINE ON START

No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

No agitation? first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.