Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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F35 error means that there is some sort of issue with the steamer electronic board and analog pressure sensor has gone bad. Check that the hose is firmly attached with the washer and is not blocked. You can also check the water level pressure switch operation. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

F35

ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE

If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer
component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.


Possible Causes/Procedure

1. Check if pressure hose is fixed correctly.
2. Check if the airtrap is not blocked.
3. Check if the hose is not blocked.
Check these problems.
Plesae leave a solved rating before you leave the site

as far as i can find out there is no f35 hold pause cancel for three seconds and let me know if the code resets

If I recall there is a kind of latch or tongue on the bottom of the tray. You need to push it upward from the underside and it will unhook and the tray will slide out.

How old is it . It could be the belt but thats not likely what caused the belt to fail . How steady and level is the mechine dose it shake at any speed . The problem with washing mechines they have to take force wieght and you need to stay on top of the small problems because the big problems are vary expensive just for parts . If you can take it apart little sheet metal screws and a few clips look at the belt tenisnion system the motor mounting system the bearing play through the center of the barrel and springs involved with barrel rotation lots of leverage on these points.

Non of the answers are helpfull. Unplug power.Remove bottom panel and there you find a door lock release. Pull n the door will unlock. Drain water from from pum(it has drain tube). Remove clothes. Move n push the tub a little on each side. Now plug drain pipe. Close door n put it to spin. Should work

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket. In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

WASHER WILL NOT START: Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures. The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors: 1.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. Start Winding 4.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor. 5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor. 6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms. 7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. High Winding 8.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms. 11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15: Low Winding 16.touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor. 17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms. 19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor. 21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms. 23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor. 25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms. 27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27: Ex-Low Winding 28.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms. 55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short): 56.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing. 57.One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor. 58.The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good! GRINDING NOISES: The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it. Read more:http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/506592-grinding-noise.html#ixzz3ZrrG7UEk http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

DRYER OVERHEATING: Heating Element A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else. Other Causes and Conditions Air Flow Problem Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly. Cycling Thermostat Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced. Felt Seal Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common. Blower Wheel A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q GOD IS still GOOD !!!! SO MY ADIVE IS FREE

i THINK IT MAY BE LIKE THIS ONE OR THIS ONE

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket. In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

WASHER WILL NOT START: SEE PICS AT BOTTOM... Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary. Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch.. If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start. Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself. Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures. The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors: 1.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. Start Winding 4.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor. 5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor. 6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms. 7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. High Winding 8.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms. 11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15: Low Winding 16.touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor. 17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms. 19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor. 21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms. 23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor. 25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms. 27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27: Ex-Low Winding 28.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor. 33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor. 41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor. 49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms. 51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. 52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor. 53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor. 54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms. 55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing. The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short): 56.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing. 57.One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor. 58.The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

How to Check a Ge/Hotpoint Washer when Is Not Filling With Water OTHER washers test similiarly The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective. You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED). # Test procedures to follow when a GE Hotpoint washer is not filling * Disconnect the washer from the wall outlet * Set the timer dial on regular and pull the knob to turn the timer push-pull switch on * Set the temperature switch to the cold/cold setting * Open the controls panel to gain access to the water mixing valve solenoids * Touch the 2 terminals on the cold water solenoid with your volt meter test proves. Make sure that your body don't touch the washer cabinet, this eliminate the chance of getting an electrical shock. * Have someone plug the washer cord for you while you check the voltage * The reading should be 120 volts * Disconnect the washer from the wall outlet * Touch the 2 terminals on the hot water solenoid with your volt meter test proves. Remember, to keep your body from touching the washer cabinet to eliminate the chance of getting an electrical shock # 2 Have your helper plug in the washer cord again so you could check the voltage at the hot water solenoid * The reading should be 120 volts. If you get 120 volts, this tells you that the wall outlet, the timer, the water temperature switch cold and hot water settings are working ok. # 3 If the GE Hotpoint washer is not filling, the problem should be on the water valve, the screen filters or the water supply # 4 If one of the solenoids is bad you will need to replace the complete water mixing valve assembly YOU SHOULD ALSO GET AN OHMS READING OR SHOW CONTINUITY WHEN TESTED UNPLUGGED ON BOTH SELINOIDS HOT AND COLD

regular detergent unless its an H.E WASHER THEN U USE H.E DETERGENT

LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START: Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor. MACHINES SAIDS SENSING When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load. NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal. Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue. Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors. This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed. I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor. Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault. A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel. The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in God is good and that's why I give free advice.