It sounds as though the refrigerant gas needs topping up. That can cause the compressor to become overworked, get hot and cause enough resistance to pop the GFCI.
sounds like you have a bad defrost terminator thats not defrosting and causing cold to stay in freezer and not keep fridge cold/ Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
The motor might be bad .If this motor is 120 volts just take it out and plug it into a regular wall outlet and see if it works. If it works then motor is good but there might be an issue with your natural in the unit preventing it from completing the circuit.
The first thing to investigate is the condenser coils to see if they are clean. If they are caked in dust and lint/dirt then they cannot shed the heat created when the compressor pressurizes the refrigerant gas. This is on the high (pressure) side of the system. the compressor pressurizes the gas and them it is cooled. Then it goes through an expansion valve resulting in the gas expanding and getting cold. this cold gas passes through coils inside the unit absorbing the eat inside and making the inside cold. So if the condenser coils are clogged up and cannot cool the gas then the machine will not work. the gas will return too hat to the compressor and it will be running really hot, perhaps knocking. Use a vacuum cleaner and a brush to remove the dust/dirt. lint etc. clogging the cooling fins and then see if the machine doesn't work better. after 5 years this sounds very likely to be the issue. It is quick and easy to do and costs you nothing. If it is not the problem then at least yu will not be paying a technician by the hour to try it first!
it seem that it was only a grounding wire that you find.. the fridge only need to be defrost. Is your unit has been opened or serviced before, and it has a possibility that it has a loose connections inside?
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks category.
This is primarily a South African make and not one we know here in North America. This link should work better where you live and provide some insight.
https://www.google.com/search?q=DEFY+DOUBLE+DOOR+FRIDGE+DFF417+error+OC2
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Humming is a classic sign that the start / run capacitor for the compressor has failed. Call for service, have it checked for gas and condenser cleaned.
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On an AEG SANTO 3533, the tray sits on top of the compressor. There is a short metal "tunnel" on top of the compressor. The tray has a plastic clip in the middle which goes through the tunnel and latches up on the other side. To remove, reach to the back of the metal in the middle of the tray, press the plastic clip firmly down, and pull/wiggle the tray backwards horizontally to remove. Needed a torch to see clearly on mine. One of these things that's easy once you've done it once.
Copper has anantibacterial effect. Studies recommend storing water in copper containers for several hours before consumption to maximize this benefit. Some research suggests 48 hours. perhaps explore dedicatedcopper water bottlesfrom reputable sources for optimal water storage.
This refers to water, not juices.
