20 Most Recent U-Line 1115WC Origins Series 32 Bottle Wine Captain - Page 4 Questions & Answers

THERMOSTAT DOES NOT WORK

What is the model number of your unit?

I would reset the breaker then check the power at the t-stat. Check to see if the t-stat is closing. And listen for a hmmm from the compressor. Also check to see if the evaperator is frozen up (it could give the t-stat a false reading of all else fails I would pull the fridge out and check the compresser if it is very hot to the touch it's pooped. Good luCk

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

It seems odd that over the phone they could do an immediate diagnosis... It is possible as they may have experienced similar failures in the past. I also wonder what that part number is? (noun name) Switch, relay, Control? et al.
The service and parts manual is here for most all U-line wine coolers:
http://stroboflash.com/searayproject/Docs/U%20LINE%20Service%20Manual.pdf
That part number is not in the manual. It may be a substitude part number.

The service manual is a bit odd for a service manual but... it should help you gain access to your part that needs replaced.

If the manual is not even close... please respond with a model number and I will look up model specific information.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

There is a wiring diagram inside the unit in the 3 x 5 or 4 x 6 tech data sheet envelope. Remove the lower grille and look on the inside chassis wall and the frame for the packet. It is inside some where but usually on the left side as you would face the unit door.

If you do not find it.. feel free to seek another expert as I do not have the service manual for the combo units. (I do have the manual for stand alone units)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Check to see if you have a little red reset button on your compressor motor that is popped up. If so, push it down and see if it works for you. If not, repost back here with model number so we can try to identify the fault.

The advice we provide here are primarily based on the information provided and on first hand experience. The accuracy of the advice depends on the amount of information. The more information provided, the more accurate the advice can be. Basic information includes the make and model of the appliance.

Good day,
You should first verify the age. There should be a 5 year warranty on the compressor. In your owners manual it might refer to it as a sealed system component or compressor.
Call your selling dealer and verify that. If it is, then have a service call performed by them, or an authorized repair station they use.

Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
icemaker is not making ice: Water Inlet Valve :-- Your icemaker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.An icemaker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.
Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.
Defrost Thermostat:-- It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting.
Or your icemaker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.

This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Does the freezer have an ice maker installed? If it does regardless if you have a water line running from it or not it will cycle from time to time weather it is turned on or not, If you dont have it hooked up and dont plan on ever using it you can disconnect it and remove it from your unit and gain some freezer space. All you should need is a philips screw driver~hope this solves your problem

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

I noticed you did not say where the water was going. That really doesn't matter because a leak like this happens in different places. The key is to find the location and then fix that to eliminate the results. Some start in the freezer and the condensate from the defrost overflow into the freezer. Other blockages are blow the freezer and in a turn going down to the defrost condensate collector pan below the refrigerator. On the link below click where it says how to fix a leaking refrigerator. Read to whole page and if you still have questions let me know. Some parts of that page will not be the information you need so jut use the part that most resembles you leak and the apply the repair. Thanks, Sea Breeze
click below
HOW TO FIX A LEAKING REFRIGERATOR OR FREEZER

Hi
Er means that somthing is wrong. It could be a temperature problem that caused it. Does it beep at all. That is a alarm for the door being open. You may need to check the magnet on the door and the reed switch on the wall. Upper left for the top drawer. and on the bottom is on the grill and door. Normally this is something I would ask for a tech to look at. But if you feel confident to try this I can get you into the program to see what its telling us. Now hold the up arrow and at the same time press and release the light bulb 3 times. Then release the up arrow last. If you did this right then you will have a 0 on the display. Yes, Then up arrow until you get to 3. Then press and release, It should give you a number. E# ? Let me know what this is. You may have a couple so write down all of them.

Now after you got the number then just push up arrow until you get to 99 then press and release the light bulb to go back to the refrigeration cycle.
E3= bottom drawer open to long
E10= Top drawer open
E1 = Thermistor #1 open
E5 = 10 degrees to warm E6 = 10 degrees too cold E7= Thermistor 2 E8=Thermistor 3 E9 =Thermistor 4 open thermistor 1 located top drawer Thermistor#2 I/M or evap if no icemaker
Thermistor3 is located in freezer or base if no freezer thermistor 4 is drain pan
Hope this helps