Trying to remember a specific model is a nightmare, but I can tell you, its in one of Two places.
Either it is behind the bottom panel at the front (Which clips off, and if it's there, it will be very obvious) or the bad news is, if it's not behind that panel, it's actually only accessible from the rear of the machine by removing an inspection panel at the bottom of the rear of the body. Some instructions that cover both possibilities are attached for you:
If hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom, many models
of this design also have a small hose to the right of the filter cap that you
can pull out, remove a plug from and drain off any water in the filter before
you remove the filter and get your floor wet, so take a look for this before
you remove the filter and get soaked.
If the filter is not located there, then you will
need to access the debris trap from the back of the machine. Pull the
machine out and you will see a roughly oval panel at the bottom of the rear of
the machine. Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws and unclip. Directly below the drum, you
will now see a rubber "Cup" like bulge in the black pipe, with a
plastic tube connected to a plastic pipe. The cup is held in place by a large
jubilee clip. Unscrew the clip, pull off the rubber boot to expose the debris
trap (A conical plastic cage with a ping pong ball in it) Take out the ball and
the plastic trap, clean out the debris and replace the trap and the ball (Note
that the cage may have a slot in it that locates in the rubber boot, make sure
it lines up, or it won't reassemble correctly). Now push the boot back onto the
fitting at the bottom of the drum where it came from and tighten up the jubilee
clip, making sure that it is fitted correctly (it too may have a small slot out
of it that fits around a protrusion on the bottom of the housing).Give the
boot a tug and reassure yourself that it is secure. Replace the panel on the
back of the machine and test. All should now be well.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Here are my complete and general guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
I have the same model at work only under the frigidaire branding. The shock mounts for the drum are made of plastic and can break (especially if the unit is moved without the shipping screws) If one breaks the unit will make a clunking sound.
It is most likely either the belt or the idlers which the belt wraps around. Open the top (disconnect first) and have someone turn the drum while you watch to see if the belt is slipping. I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions. I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.
Remove the lower rear panel of washer.
Locate and remove the large black hose fastened to bottom of drum.
Remove and clean plastic filter inside the hose, reassmble and test for leaks.
Have some cloths ready to mop up any water that may appear..
Remove lower rear panel of washer.
Locate and remove large black hose fastened to bottom of drum.
Remove and clean plastic filter inside hose.
Reassemble and test.
hi from the uk susan ? this is not uncommon and easily fixed if you are confident DIY ? and req's a little patience with a posi drive screwdriver if you want to save $$$$s on call out fee ? the problem is most probably the time delay switch which prevents door opening too soon after cycle/machine has finished and the light has gone off then door can be opened if you feel confident ? will help/instructions on how to rectify fault if you reply back ?
At 11 years old, I would not consider getting it repaired, far better to put the money towards a new one, and you will have the benefit of a new guarantee as well.
Sounds like there is too much water left in the drum as it goes into the spin cycle, and the centrifugal force of the drum spinning is forcing the wate past the door seal probably, needs the filter cleaning, or the door seal itself may require replacing.
Here are a series of free videos to help you with your
bearing problems and how to fix them
For all your free videos on appliance repairs remember to
mark us down and leave feed back please
For all your parts visit our site http://www.apart4u.co.uk
This first video shows you how to diagnose the problem
The next Hotpoint video is on how to take the drum out
This Hotpoint video will show you how to change the bearings
in the drum tub
the last one will show you how to change the spider or drum
support as they are known
On a Hotpoint front loader m/c, take the lower panel off at floor level. Try not to break it as fragile. To the right is an emergency tab, pull on the tab downwards at the same time as using the door handle. It should now open.