20 Most Recent Hotpoint  21.8 Cu. Ft. Top-Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Your automatic defroster coil is open and needs to be replaced along with the fan in the freezer that blows the cold air around and also blows air into refrigerator. Bad smell down below is food rotting in that section because it is not cold enough.

What is the model number?

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote on moving refrigerators...if you did not do it thisway then you may well have ruined a perfectly good refrigerator.

Moving a Refrigerator What is the best way

If you already have moved it wrong, you can sometimes get it working byplugging it in and unplugging it a number of times with an hour or so inbetween.

heatman101

Hi,
This is because the refrigerant in the refrigerator may have leak so there is no gas going to the compressor so it is not getting cold.Please refill the refrigerant and Check the leak and arrest it.this problem will be solved.
Thank You

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Is there anything else that makes you think this is a problem.

you shoulnt have to set the controls colder the 50% like 3 1/2 out of 7 / there are two controls one is in the freezer or should i say it sences freezer temp. this control actuly turns the compresor on and off the second is more a damper witch allows more or less are to be sent from the freezer to the cooler or bottom cabinet. Many many times i have seen people overfill there freezers witch causes similer troubles. the control is siply a switch that works on a presuized gas bellows. as the temp reduses in the bellow do to low tep the control opens. as it increases with heat the switch closes. turning the contol colder simply changes the values. most control fale when the will not shut off or will not turn on . veary rarely in between. your fride is also frost free and the defrost system may be in trouble , this will cause ice buid up in the freezer coil cousing a lack of air flow . so as you can see there is more involed then the turn of a nobe. to test the defrost system simple turn the timer into defrost or youl here it click / should be lokated in the top of the food copartment. see if the defrost ends within 1/2 hour . if not replase the timer.... hope this helped

i would start by changing the defrost timer . this is the most comon failure part it the frost free fridge today . good luck hope i helped

tilting it would not do any harm while running the tilting theory is if you lay a fridge over on its side the oil in the compressor can run into the suction tubing and it is recomended not to plug it in right away . this is to alow the oil time to run back into the compressor housing. did you posibly loose some air space around the freezer. refrigeration is all about the removal of heat. if you block the air flow around the unit it may not be able to aceave the low teperatur set points. hope this helped

posibly the fridge went into a defrost. normaly the defrost is 15 to 20 min every 6 hours - other then the timer the only other part of the unit that turns the compresor on and off it the temperature contol' . hope this helped you

I don't know about the hot points for sure, but all the maytags (I used to work for maytag) have a damper valve in the air tunnel that feeds cold air to the refrigerator. If the damper went bad, it would block cold air flow into the refrigerator. (assuming this model has a damper)

sorry but you do.

your defrost drain is plugged the cup is located in the refrig. section
in the center at the top it should pop out with a little help with a small screwdriver

check freezer for frost build up and if fan is blowing, check condenser, make sure its clean, and fan blowing, check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, controls should be in the middle setting, check make sure compressor is running

It looks like your model doesn't have an internal filter. Not all of them do, and if you want to filter the water you add an external unit fixed to the wall. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+CSX24GR+replace+filter There is a number of models that start CSX24 this is the 24X and says it is an optional extra. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/690660/Hotpoint-Csx24x.html?page=12&term=Water+Filter&selected=1#manual ..

In some cases the board and or adaptive defrost board may be located on the back of fridge. there will be a plte covering it, as for evaporator coild they cnnot be covered in insulation but will have a plastic cover that has to be removed to get to them. u wont have a timer if u hve an adaptive defrost board. as per utr problem sounds like a defrost issue, in which case check heating element, defrost terminator, and make sure evap fan is working also, lastly check manual timer by setting it to defrost , wait 30 minutes then check to see if ithe fridge ts back on showing timer is working. if its adaptive board instead of timer you need specil tools to check it. Also check to make sure compressor stays on during cycle and not clicking isound n back? see pics

Does the problem move with the drawer when you shuffled them or did it do the same thing in the same position? If it moved it's the drawer causing the issue, if it stayed in the same place it's the freezer itself. Empty the offending drawer and have a good look at it. A lot of front panels on freezer drawers are a 'push on' fit so check the front is clipped on correctly on both sides. Next check the runner rails and back panel of the area that drawer goes into. It might be something as simple as a lump of ice or something stuck to the side/back or a something in the drawer above or below blocking it.

unplug it, empty it and defrost it then restart. This sometimes fixes the problem.

yes . it sounds like the main board . the clicking would be the relay that starts compressor ... change the main board .. mm feed back pls . with a model # i can give you part # & price .

go online using make and model and order replacement