20 Most Recent Samsung Refrigerator Ice Maker - DA97-07365A Questions & Answers

Ice Maker Doesn't Turn Off If your ice maker keeps making ice, even when it is full: 1Lift the bail wireto shut off the ice maker, and remove the ice bin. Then, using a screwdriver if necessary, remove the ice maker, clean it thoroughly, and then reinstall it. 2If the problem persists,consider removing and replace the entire ice maker and valve. With this type of problem, you can have it repaired, but it's often wiser and less expensive in the long run to replace the unit entirely. Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out: 1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker. 2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip). 3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts. 4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube. On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks. How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker. Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up.

I'm 65 yrs old and this is the craziest questions I've yet to see!

HI.TERRY.freezer has to work at its optimum.for the ice maker to work. i would try to defrost the freezer completely first and try.good luck.Ali

Check the Control Settings: Ensure that the temperature settings for both the fridge and freezer compartments are appropriately configured. Sometimes incorrect settings can lead to cooling problems. Make sure the fridge is not in demo mode. If it is, disable demo mode by referring to your user manual. Inspect the Door Seals: Damaged or worn-out door seals can cause cold air to leak out, resulting in insufficient cooling in the fridge compartment. Inspect the door seals for any cracks, tears, or gaps. If you find any issues, consider replacing the door seals. Evaporator Coil and Fan Check: The evaporator coils in the fridge play a crucial role in cooling. If they are frozen or malfunctioning, it can affect cooling. Similarly, check if the fan responsible for distributing cold air inside the fridge is working correctly. Reset the Refrigerator: Sometimes a simple reset can resolve cooling issues. Unplug the fridge from the power source for a few minutes, then plug it back in. Observe if there's any improvement in cooling after the reset. Compressor Overheating: You mentioned that the compressor is very hot. An overheated compressor can impact cooling. Allow the compressor to cool down completely before switching the fridge back on.

Check the coolant level and pressure when cooling. You may need to evacuate the system and reload it with the correct anount of gas.

Compressors are noisy due to its job. Check there is no packaging between the motor and any other part as that can increase the noise.

The make appears to be known for beeping. Try a power reset. Pull the wall plug for 5 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RFG297HDRS+cool+select+pantry+keeps+beeping Video

could be just the coil on the valve, but most more likely valve getting stuck as it opens. somtimes can take apart and clean, will work for awhile, but if have the cash best just swap it out. will save you hassel down the road.My Aplogies I was under the impression you had already located the valve. I as I have not seen unit I can not give the location, However since it is on the water system, I would trace water tubing from where it connects to unit. It should not be far from inlet connection. Look for tubing going to a valve with wires ontop, ensure after the valve is where you whish water/ice to come out. Once that is located take photo and order new valve, or secure water remove and clean valve. Note have container ready as water will leak once you remove valve.

First I would clean all grim. Second if you do not have refrigerant gauges feel discharge line with hand. Will be a smaller line and coverd with foam. It should be hot to condensor. if not You probabaly lost charge. Also top of compressor should be hot. Should the above not meet specs. You need to find leak, get a pro. to locate repair leak, as you need licenese to go further.

Manny MANY unfortunate customers who bought this **** from Samsung have problem.
Specifically the Freezer cold but fridge side no lower than 55deg problem.

It is a known defect that Samsung has not taken ownership of. I have the same problem with the same model as many.. if you search the net. Iv'e been trying to find a designated website for repairs for this problem. Please post website with solution if anyone finds it. Thanks

Unplug the fridge, wait 2 minutes and plug back in. If symptoms remain then likely it was damaged. If you don't have a whole house surge suppressor then you need one. Modern appliances are extremely susceptible to voltage spikes.

First: i don't know. In the manual there should be some pages for solving dysfunction and what the lights mean. Always check for damage on the closed and pressurized system, including inside, where the tubular radiators are, mostly half within the panels. Those may have broken when using tools to remove ice or been hit rough with some object. For a right understanding: the fridge must not be shaken or tilted and carried. When this has happened, then the evaporation fluid or refrigerant can be mixed with the oil that resides on the bottom of the compressor. It may only have a small sponge to clear the fluid from a little oil contamination. What finally solves the mixing is shutting the fridge off for 24 hours and when not completely satisfied with the result, immediately for another 24 hours. Another thought is that a fridge may not function at all, in a cold room. Transfer of heat is totally not the same at all temperatures. Many people have been the same disappointed as you, thinking they can find a cold place for the fridge or freezer. So, when this has happened when the room temperature dropped dramatically, get it out of the cold or shut it down because it performs at its maximum capacity. That is where my bet is at. The radiator at the back can also not function right when it is close the wall and/or an object is placed right above it. The heat must be dispersed. Best of luck