20 Most Recent Husqvarna 150BT 50CC Gas Leaf Backpack Blower 180 MPH - Manufacturer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Have you checked the keyway that is molded in to the aluminum flywheel if there's even a little tiny chip and it Will throw timing off enough that it won't fire at the right time I'm not an expert I had similar machine do the same thing didn't look like there was anything wrong with the key way in the flywheel just glancing at it but there was a small chip out of the side very hard to see keyway is very small

Try disconnecting the damper (small shock absorber) and see if symptoms change.

90 to 110 psi

I have a 123L Husqvarna String Trimmer that wont start. I...

http://answerarmy.com > posts May 21, 2018 - First the compression is way too low as most 2 cycles require at very minimum of 100 psi to start and most trimmer when new usually have between ... Missing: chart ‎' Must include: chart

• Husqvarna 324L 4 stroke trimmer has 90 psi compression

  http://answerarmy.com > posts Mar 13, 2018 - Husqvarna 324L 4 stroke trimmer has 90 psi compression, won't start on starter fluid, and owner says he always has to run it on partial ...

How to Troubleshoot a Husqvarna Weed Eater - Hunker

https://www.hunker.com > ... > Garden Tools & Supplies Note the compression levels, which should be between 90 to 110 psi for a good engine. Service the compression and air systems if the reading is below this. Step ...

Check the spark arrest screen is clear.

"... inspect the muf?er. A blocked screen will cause the machine to overheat..."

That would be an operator not in seat detected. Check seat switch

Question edited for clarity. There are videos in this link. https://www.google.com/search?q=adjust+the+carburetor+on+a+Husqvarna+525LS+and+Husqvarna+128LDX ..

It has a history of issues! https://www.google.com/search?q=Husqvarna+yth22v46+goes+in+reverse+when+using+forward+pedal+and+goes+forward+using+reverse+pedal ..

If brang new, take it back for a warranty repair/replacement.

possible drive belt slipping or transmission skipping

willie ,you are not kidding,just not explaining very well.there is no way a bolt from the chain bar could fall into the crank case. If you mean the outer casing of the whole chainsaw ,that is ok all you need to do is remove the outer case as if you were going to fit a new chain and it wll probably fall out if it has gone the other side take the recoil start off and it will then let me know please

There is a good video on that saw being disassembled. IT is worthy to note that hard to start may be due to fuel or ignition issues. Ignition issue could be the timing on the flywheel which is keyed to the shaft and also the gap between the magneto coil and the magnet. This gap is crucial to the output of the spark wire. It does not look like an easy saw to work on https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=husqvarna+455+rancher+parts&docid=608051851890751573&mid=F9526C9C2FA8331F27E2F9526C9C2FA8331F27E2&view=detail&FORM=VIRE Also being a straight gasoline engine it is going to have more resistance to starting due to the compression stroke of a 4 cycle engine.

A parts schematic might help you https://www.partstree.com/models/st-268-ep-961910038-11-husqvarna-27-snow-blower-2013-07/drive-19/ Or you could pause in the videos https://www.google.com/search?q=2011+husqvarna+st+268+ep+tension+belt ..

It has points and condenser.

Check that points make/break. Connect an ohm meter between engine metal and the small primary wire. Rotate flywheel slowly. The meter should go from zero (points closed) to a reading between 0.5 - 3 ohms (points open). If no problem found, disconnect condenser and check spark.

You can check magnet strength with a flat blade screwdriver. The magnet should hold a screwdriver along the blade without falling off.

Possibly an ignition module issue, on the advance settings. It could be sparking before the piston closes the fuel port from the carb

Try this. Remove the solenoid from the mower, this makes access to test it easier. Apply 12 volts to the two SMALL terminals on the solenoid. You should get a clear "Click" as you turn the power ON and again as you turn it OFF. With the power ON use a multimeter set to Ohms or Resistance and test across the two LARGE terminals. you should get no resistance. When you turn OFF the power it should change to a resistance reading.

maybe you could oil on it?

put a belt tightener on it

See attached parts diagram.

Check for wear in sector gear (35) and shoulder bolt (58) or loose shoulder bolt. The sector plate should move laterally with little to none horizontally.

Check that washer (13) is in place between the clip and steering support (22). The diagram is somewhat ambiguous but I believe the washer is above the support but not sure. If you didn't have the shaft out then it's likely in the correct position (above or below).

There is also a bushing just below the steering wheel for upper steering support that may also contribute to the problem.

check the safety switches. there is one bad.