Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor
Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHr7bCO_IiA unclog drain hole
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_DKNtgd5vI
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
remove toe kick on bottom of fridge, should be some screws on both sides. tray slides out, maybe not all the way dont force, there is a float mechanism that will stop it from coming out all the way, use some paper towels or rags to soak up the stagnant water, this pan should have a heater hooked up to it to evaporate the water, the installer should have hooked this up on installation, they dont hook it up at the factory to get a better EER out the factory door, just trace back to the pan and hook up any unplugged wires going to it, good luck
Fan motors there are 2 one inside and 1 outside. use a vacuum to clean up the outside first !! you can use oil to grease the bearings in it. only takes 2 drops. Hope this helps you.
It's possible to troubleshoot and potentially fix the noise issue in your Miele refrigerator yourself, but it's important to exercise caution and follow proper safety procedures. Here are a few steps you can take:
Unplug the Refrigerator: Before attempting any repairs, unplug the refrigerator from the power source to ensure your safety.
Remove the Top Inside Corner Panel: If you suspect the noise is coming from the top inside corner, you can try removing the panel to access the fan or components in that area. Check your refrigerator's user manual or Miele's website for specific instructions on removing panels or accessing internal components. If the panel has screws or fasteners, carefully remove them to detach the panel without damaging it.
Inspect for Obstructions: Once you have access to the inside corner area, visually inspect for any obstructions or loose components that could be causing the noise. Look for any debris, loose wires, or parts that may be hitting the fan or other moving parts. If you find any obstructions, carefully remove them.
Lubricate Moving Parts: If the noise persists, you can try lubricating the fan or other moving parts in the area. Use a food-grade lubricant or a specifically recommended lubricant for refrigeration equipment. Apply the lubricant according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Check Fan Blade Alignment: Ensure that the fan blades are properly aligned and not hitting any surrounding components. If the blades appear bent or damaged, they may need to be replaced. Contact Miele customer support or a qualified technician for further guidance on replacing fan blades.
Reassemble and Test: After addressing any issues, reassemble the panel and secure it back into place. Plug the refrigerator back in and test it to see if the noise has been resolved. Monitor the refrigerator over a period of time to ensure the noise does not return.
If, after attempting these steps, the noise persists or you encounter difficulties during the process, it is recommended to contact Miele customer support or schedule a service visit by a professional technician. They have the expertise and specialized tools to diagnose and repair complex issues.
Note: Working on appliances can carry risks, and it's important to be cautious and take necessary safety precautions. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing any steps, it's best to consult a professional technician to avoid potential hazards or further damage to the appliance.
Check first input power supply of fan if its OK then problems can possible in the fan motor . you can check pre fuse by a tester with continuity method
unplug for 5 mins. power it up. if still a problem check troubleshooting steps in handbook. likely needs Meile service guy to run diagnostic. if so keep his report. you can submit to your insurance co. if you have some such contents cover.
Don't know if you still need this, but the 'tamper' aka shock absorber aka gas strut for the warming drawer EGW3060 has the Miele part no. 8127920. It's likely the designs of most of their drawers are the same, but it would be worth checking with the Miele spares department who I've always found very helpful in discussing and supplying spares, contrary to their reputation (although they won't supply technical documentation of course). If you want to try getting hold of the original manufacturer's part, it's a Stabilus Lift-o-Mat 5601YG 0085N.
Our EGW3060 has got through three of these gas struts in its 11-year life - it's clearly a weak point of the design. I have a feeling that Miele changed the spec of the gas strut to 85N force (originally 50N) at some stage, to provide a sharper 'snap' to the closure. Fitting is incredibly easy, but if you've found the mechanism you know that already. Hope this helps.
