20 Most Recent Beverage-Air BM23 Questions & Answers

Not familiar with this thermostat but you can figure it out if you know how to use a meter. Sounds like they want you to run both power and neutral threw the thermostat OR it is one that either opens on temp rise or closes on temp rise. Also, the wire tapped into the black one for the fan is probably to energize the fan 24/7 as the original may have been damaged.

I would definately start there. That is what contols the cycling of the compressor.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

evaporator or condensor? one can be due to ice build up and impeedence the other due to restriction and debris build up or bad motor

The evap fan runs continuously if the thermostat is not in the off position. If the fan is not running you need to find out if it is getting power and replace it if necessary.

Take it out and down to grainger or a refrigeration supply house. Its a very common part and usually not to hard to replace. Hope this helps and good luck.

You will need to install line taps on the service pigtails in the compressor compartment. Attach your gauges and remove the remaining refrigerant from the system. Cut the 2 access pigtails just below the temporary access valves and braze permanent Schrader valves for gauge access. Install gauges and draw a vacuum on the system. Find the charge listed on the spec. tag that mentions model and serial number. Get an accurate scale that weighs in ounces and weigh in exactly the charge by the ounce. The charge is critical and since this temperature control measures coil temperature and not cooler temperature it will not shut off without a close charge. Hope this helps and good luck.

either a problem with the thermostat or the probe for it has been dislodged and getting a false temp reading

Sound as you have what it called a defrost problem. There are 3 parts involved as defrost timer, limit switch or defrost heater.

you should hear a click when going to the off position and another click when turning on or take it out and measure resistance on both position with a multi volt meter with beeping sound.

Seems like the T-stat may have a dead spot on it since it started when you changed the settings. It is possible to trick (short) the t-stat to cause it to cool FOREVER, that would check your refrigerant charge is good. Would lean more toward t-stat problem first.

Yje compressor is probly what is causing the shorting out signs you decribed. If the compressor has shorted it in not worth the money and time to replace. Do you have an OHM meter? Below is how to test the compressor.Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze