20 Most Recent Beverage-Air MT27 Beverage Cooler Commercial - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I've seen refrigerators that are working fine blow GFI outlets when the compressor starts, usually just change to non GFI outlet for fix. You say its tripping GFI breaker , is there anyway to test it on non GFI breaker?

The condensate is supposed to drain from the evaporator down to a pan underneath by the compressor. Is is possible that the tube is not aligned with the pan any more. It is simple to check, remove the compressor compartment cover and inspect the pan and the tube. If the tube is out of place, just reposition it. This is likely the problem you are having. Also make sure the pan is correctly positioned.

Post back and I will assist you

You'll need to check the back-pressure on the low-side of the system, you have a faulty compressor. If there is a condenser fan motor make sure it is running when the compressor is on.

On commercial coolers, the fans are designed to run 24/7 to prevent the coils from freezing up. If the unit only runs 4 times a day, it will not maintain proper temps. Domestic units utilize the freezer compartment air to keep the refrigerator section at temp. Totally different set ups. I wouldn't do what you are suggesting with a commercial unit.

start with the obvious, check freon level before going any further.

i usually set mine at 38 or 40 that way things wont freeze but stay cold.

We have a solution to this link that will help

http://www.fixya.com/support/r6019270-refrigerator_freezer_air_conditioner

sounds as if you have a perfict working unit,its doing what it says on the tin.adrian,,,,

Sometimes they are in the overheade space above the cooler .. if they were inside then they would have to be HO ballasts because of the temperature .. sometimes they are in the moulding strip under the lamp itself.

The compressor may not be starting. Put your forehead against the nmachine when youturn it on or plug it in, You will feel the vibration of the pump. If it is not coming on, you may need a technician to what determine why it is not working.

1. try cleaning the condenser it's gotta to have some dirt.

(if it looks clogged, turn the unit off and spray the condenser with a water hose!) it should throw out some dirt

if you did step 1 and still no cooling suspect a small refrigerant leak.

most of the times if its r-134a, i go down to autozone and buy a stop leak for r-134a and charge it into system.

also if theres a refrigerant leak,i'd get a tech to check and correct leak (if he finds it) but that's worse case scenario :) I'd go with dirty condenser.... email me at [email protected] if you need more info.

yes there's a ballast. on the top of fridge where you put the lights for the sign if you remove the plastic cover there should be a couple of them there.

Bi-pin Fluorescent Lamp Installation /Verification Prior to applying power to the unit, verify that all lamps are properly installed and fully engaged in the lamp holders.

Proper lamp engagement is achieved by rotating the lamp 90° from its insertion position until it "snaps" or "clicks" into place.

Visual verification can be made on units without safety shields by using the identification mark on the end of the bulb. Properly installed bulbs will have the mark centered between the "halves" of the lamp holder.

On units with shields, the identification mark cannot be seen. Physically verify that the lamp has been rotated and locked into place.

Caution: Improperly installed lamps may cause damage to the lighting circuit. Beverage-Air shall have no liability whatsoever for equipment or component failures or other damages or losses which arise as a result of improper installation.

1. check for dirty condenser sometimes if its dirty enough, it'll trip the compressor.
2. if condenser is dirty, well pull out the old garden hose and hose down the condenser (turn off unit first!)(i don't want any accidents... je je je)

if you did step 2 and nothing yet, suspect faulty relay/ overload/ start capacitor failure (relay and start capacitors fail more often then the overload.

hope to he of some help today.

New faucets are easily had from many places like beveragefactory.com, northerbrewer.com, austinhomebrew.com, micromatic.com, etc. You should also be able to find replacement washers/o-rings for your current faucet, but it may require an email or phone call to one of the sales reps to locate one. If you decide on a new faucet consider a Ventmatic (Shirron) forward sealing faucet. Much better design that drips less and doesn't stick after sitting a few days. The only issue I've seen is that the machined grooves in back of the faucet may not mate up with your current shank requiring a machined (as opposed to cast) shank to match.