Lights only indicate that the Power is still active and you have a source of energy.
The problem is, the compressor is not active (may be a condenser) and it will not function. Unless you have test equipment to check for leakage, shorts, or shunted electronics, you can not locate the problem source.
Call a qualified repair service...and hopefully there is one during this period of time.
Refrigerator Leaking From Icemaker
If it's leaking from inside the freezer then it's coming from the icemaker or the drain. Lets start with the icemaker. If it's the icemaker there will likely be an ice hanging from the icemaker or just a big block of ice in the ice bin. In any case, it will be obvious.
There are a few reasons this will happen: one is the icemaker will stop turning when it gets to the fill cycle. This will happen when the gears in the icemaker break. On GE icemakers that were made before the year 2000, you can see the gears by taking off the cover on the front of the icemaker. However, if the small gear is broke you can't buy it as far as I know. I have been taking them off of junk icemakers for years. So this part may be hard to find. But if the big gear is broke replace it. Another reason icemakers leak is the fill tube is stopped up and I already discussed this earlier (replace water valve and clean out tube).
Another reason icemakers leak is that the water comes in too fast so it over fills the first cube mold. When this happens you will get a few drops of water when it fills. To fix this you have to take the icemaker out and remove the piece on the side of the icemaker. I don't know the name of it so for this we'll call it cube separator because that's what it does (most of them just snap off others have a screws). Now take silicone (RTV) and put a small amount around the first cube mold only under the cube separator. Now reinstall the cube separator and wipe off excess silicone and it shouldn't leak anymore.
Another reason that icemakers leak is that the refrigerator water valve sticks after the icemaker goes out of the fill cycle. When this happens the valve stays on and the icemaker keeps on turning, in which case, replace the refrigerator water valve.
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
Fridge not starting?CLICKING? FIRSTALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.
MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ONTHE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> ? BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECKURCOLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.
to check thedefrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click.
Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS.
And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Some fridges are now using ADC boards.
Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.Theyare normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such asicemakingand electrical air damper door opening andclosing.Thedefrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.
AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor.Check with an OHMS meterfor continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked forMicrofares.( if in series with the windings)
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold controlthermostat ( in the fridge compartment)with an alligator jumper.You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms-If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To checkurcompressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes tourstart winding, 1 goes tourrun winding and the center goes tourground or COM
Placeurmeter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prongagin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total ofurtwo separate test. 9 ohms, if they matchurok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short inurcompressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) Thekit includes relay, capacitor, andoverload device, pre-wired. Thekit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use?proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer
The cause is the digital display is not communicating with the motherboard. The plug connection between the door's digital display and the motherboard might have unplugged. The wire running from the motherboard runs below the fridge and connects via plug located along the bottom of the fridge below the freezer door, connecting to the wire running from the display to the bottom of the freezer door. Just reconnect it and that should reset the display.
there is a connection bottom of freezer door ,behind kick plate .remove kick plate look at connection see if its has corroded . that is where the problem is.
You still may be able to get a thermostat (i'm guessing that's what he's calling the cold control). Get your model number and hit the internet. Go page by page. It will be tedious but you may get lucky. Try every appliance part site that shows up. Sometimes o.e.m. parts sit in warehouses for years before they're sold if ever. You might find a brand new one. Also, check with your local appliance recycler. Sometimes they have good used parts.
Do what I did to my friend when she said hers was blocked. I got the fridge out so the outside end of the drain tube was visible and I could get my mouth on the end, Wrapped kitchen roll round it so as not to mess my lips and said to my friend that she should look closely at the hole in the inside of the fridge AND GET AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to it so she could tell me exactly what was going on.
So with her head up to the hole I blew as hard as I could. You can guess what happened... She swore a bit, but she has a good sense of humour and laughed, but she couldn't complain as her fridge drain was clear.
It's a tube - you don't need to undo anything...
