tRoUbLESHootiNG If you think something may be wrong with your refrigerator, you can carry out some easy checks before calling for service You may locate t
..
Most likely the compressor is attempting to start and shutting off on the overload sensor. The only way to be certain requires a meter with amperage sensing to confirm the electrical load. But, if it hums and clicks after a few seconds - and gets very hot to the touch - then you may assume the compressor is trying to start, but not running. The start relay can cause this, which is inexpensive to replace. But a bad compressor winding or compressor motor bearings can also give the same symptoms. Only a meter to test each items will give accurate results.
I had the same problem; the top fridge compartment was warming up to 14C while the freezer compartment was starting to defrost (frozen stuff was starting to become soft. I took the rear wall off the freezer compartment and found it all iced up. I defrosted it with a blower heater then powered it back up. It all worked fine for a month when the same thing happened. I figured that the defrost cycle wasn't working. I located the defrost timer on the rear right-side of the fridge. I rotated it several times and found that the fridge was turning on and off. I rotated it until the fridge turned off. I waited 5 minutes then stuck my head into the freezer compartment and felt the rear wall at the bottom where he drain is; it felt warm so I guessed the defrost heater element was ok. I ordered a defrost timer and installed it. I haven't had a problem since.
That means that the unit is having a communication issue. Try unplugging it for 5 minutes and then turn the temp switch to off and plug it back in and then reset the temp.
Most likely there’s a spring broken inside the compressor. When it shuts off the internal mechanism is bouncing around. The only way to fix that is by replacing the compressor.
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing TroubleshootingRefrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAMKenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...
