Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check all safety switches on door. Make sure the main breaker in fuse box is on and well as main switch on furnace. Please ad more details. New install, just quit working? How old....

yes

I would go to the goodman website

Turn main power off to reset unit then back on. If unit still blinking count the number of blinks and there is a list of codes on the inside of the cover.

1
1 FLASH
Furnace fails to operate.
• Integrated control module
diagnostic LED is
flashing ONE (1) flash.
• Furnace lockout due
to an excessive
number of ignition
“retries” (3 total)1.
• Failure to establish flame.
Cause may be no gas to
burners, front cover
pressure switch stuck open,
bad igniter or igniter
alignment, improper orifices,
or coated/oxidized or
improperly connected flame
sensor.
• Loss of flame after establishment.
Cause may be
interrupted gas supply, lazy
burner flames (improper gas
pressure or restriction in flue
and/or combustion air
piping), front cover pressure
switch opening, or improper
induced draft blower
performance.
• Locate and correct gas
interruption.
• Check front cover
pressure switch
operation (hose, wiring,
contact operation).
Correct if necessary.
• Replace or realign
igniter.
• Check flame sense
signal. Sand sensor if
coated and/or oxidized.
• Check flue piping for
blockage, proper
length, elbows, and
termination.
• Verify proper induced
draft blower performance.

Hello, The first thing you need to check with a multimeter is if you are getting 24 volts between the R AND C terminal on the intergrated control board. If not than the transformer is blown and needs to replaced or the fuse on the control board has blown and will need to be replaced. When check for 24 volts at the R and C terminal make sure the door switch is pushed in, u can just use electrical tape to temporaily hold the switch in. If you are getting 24 volts at R and C and notthing continues to run than the intergrated control board is most likely the cause and must be replaced.

The evaporater fan is likely disabled if the tamper switch on the removable panel is not in place properly (make sure any "service switch" mounted on or near the unit is ON). So, yes - check the switch first. You can remove the panel and depress the switch by hand to see if it comes on. The tamper switch may be line voltage - so be careful poking around on that circuit. If the fan doesn't start - the problem could be power related or a safety switch tied into the low voltage thermostat. All safety switches are in wired series (like the old Christmas light string) if just one detects a problem, the fan will not turn. You may want to see if the fan works in Heat mode.. that may help identify if it is strictly a cooling related problem or both.

http://www.ehow.com/list_7574223_problems-goodman-gms9.htmlwebsite for maintenance and repair

It sounds like bad bearings inside the motor, or an off balance blower wheel. When you say circulating blower are you talking about the main blower, or the IDM (smaller motor in the top cabinet)??

It is on the data badge on your furnace or in the manuel

What was the code for four blinks?

Is inducer motor running. If not change it. If it is then remove vacuum line from it and blow through the line on start up. If this works change the pressure switch. If not start jumping the sensors around the burner until you find the bad one

Change your capacitor for the fan motor

You have a limit switch located in the furnace (a little bigger than a dime and located near the center of the front panel, sometimes the switch is mounted to a small fiberglass board) . There will be two wires going to it. They sometimes trip so often that they fail to automatically reset(due to dirty filters or undersized ductwork). You can SHUT OFF POWER TO THE FURNACE, then remove the two screws holding the switch in the furnace, pull the switch out of the furnace and tap on it and wipe it off.
The switch may work a few more times but should be replaced with the same size and type. You will see some rating printed on the switch somewhere. Write down all the numbers and get a replacemet from a furnace/AC supply house. If you have a meter and know how to use it you could check the switch for continuity.

Sometimes just a tap on the switch will get it going. There will also be a couple of rollout switches that could be tripped. They have little buttons on them to reset them. If they trip it may have other issues to be solved.
Hope this helps!
Matt

need to go to furnace and watch it...if your hearing a hum the enducer draft motor may have failed...it should start first if there is no fault codes...reset unit by unplugging furnace or in some cases turning power switch off...turn thermostat on heat and watch unit ..the small enducer draft motor should start first the a ignitor glows and the should light...goodman units have a control board with a light on control board when it fails should flash a code and on the door or inside on lable should give you what that code is...hope this helps good luck

Sequence of operation, Gas Furnace.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the ignitor. The ignitor will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the ignitor gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the ignitor does not energize (bad control, bad ignitor), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not lite (dirty pilot), the burner does not lite (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most newer furnaces will have a diagnostic center or control built into the control module. You may be able to view it as it is running thru a small viewing port. Some models will require the removal of an access panel prior to finding it. On the reverse of the access panel, there will be a diagnostic chart that will aide you in understanding any error code recorded (usually a blinking light).

This is why we technicians earn the big bucks!

Sound like your indoor blower motor is bad.

JUST SAND THE FLAME SENSOR LOCATED IN FRONT OF THE LAST GAS PORT.

Setting a thermostat has nothing to do with outdoor temperature, but more to do with what is a comfortable setting for you and your utility bill.

A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. This misconception has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower temperature. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.

Another misconception is that the higher you raise a thermostat, the more heat the furnace will put out, or that the house will warm up faster if the thermostat is raised higher. Furnaces put out the same amount of heat no matter how high the thermostat is set; the variable is how long it must stay on to reach the set temperature.

In the winter, significant savings can be obtained by manually or automatically reducing your thermostat's temperature setting for as little as four hours per day. These savings can be attributed to a building's heat loss in the winter, which depends greatly on the difference between the inside and outside temperatures. For example, if you set the temperature back on your thermostat for an entire night, your energy savings will be substantial. By turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save about 5 to 15 percent a year on your heating bill -- a savings of as much as 1 percent for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long.
Hope this helps..........

Is the inducer motor running?