Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater - Answered Questions & Fixed issues


For anyone who finds this question in the future - It's the condensate drain hose for the heat exchanger.
Get a bucket and some towels handy and unplug the lowermost flexible rubber hose - if you do this right after the furnace has stopped, water will come gushing out. Mine was continually plugging up causing my furnace to stop, like yours - the L shaped plastic tube that dips into the drain trap on the outside of the unit (the thing filled with water) was too close to the bottom of the trap. I took it out, shortened it by 1/2 an inch (keep the same bevel that's on there!) and I haven't had a problem since. Blowing out the line would only hold things off for a few weeks before it started acting up again.
Cost me $90 for a service call the first time since visually it looks fine and I checked the upper hoses that go to the pressure switch :)
Learn from my service call!

Goodman... | Answered on Oct 20, 2018 | 3,932 views


Maybe a bad sequencer.unplugged wire from sequencer and see it unit shut off .Sequencer is typically a relay

Goodman... | Answered on Feb 24, 2018 | 233 views


Does furnace fire up ,if not you have a issue with your furnace and not thermostat

Goodman... | Answered on Feb 12, 2018 | 125 views


poor Wire connection on the breaker? Is the wire screwed down tight? SHUT THE MAIN OFF FOR SAFETY, then pull the breaker off the buss bar and inspect the bussbar and bottom of breaker for any burn.

It’s helpful to also use and ampmeter to check equipment amp draw vs. the amp rating on the equipment tag.

Goodman... | Answered on Jan 27, 2018 | 76 views


The burners are not igniting and the timer turned on the blower thinking the burners were already lit by then. You have a burner/ignition problem. Either the ignighter or themocouple is bad

Goodman... | Answered on Jan 08, 2018 | 146 views


The blink codes are differant on every furnace. Read your code on the schematic found on the inside of the door. You most likey have a dirty flame sensor. Under the burners you should find a "single" wire going to a connector. This will be to the far left or right. Just opposite of a "two" white wires going to the hot surface igniter. Remove the 1/4 inch screw closet to the single wire under the burner. carefully pull out the flame sensor. Clean it with a small piece of sandpaper. Re install it. This should fix your furnace. KEEP IN MIND Goodman GMP models are noted for defective heatexchangers. Pull out the blower assembly and turn it over. If small rings about the size of a dime falls out.... this furnace is unsafe and should replaced!

Goodman... | Answered on Dec 14, 2017 | 1,760 views


Hello,

The t-state set to fan "ON" will only cycle the fan to turn on only nothing else. "Auto" is where you always want the t-state on when you want to have heat and have the fan cycle off automatically after the t-stat has reached set point.

As for the press switch, there can be two things that will cause the pressure switch not to close. 1: obviously the switch itself and 2: the inducer fan, this has the rubber tubing that connects to the pressure switch.

When you call for heat, the inducer fan ( small fan with black plastic piece that spins ) is the first to turn on, this fan makes sure any left over exhaust air/gases are vented out before the burners turn on, it also stays on the entire heat cycle to exhaust the gases. The pressure switch needs proof of air so the pressure switch closes with the vacuum that is being created by the inducer fan in that rubber hose that is connected to the pressure switch. This allows the furnace to know " my induce fan is working, lets proceed".

So,

I would make sure your inducer fan is working. if you don't see it working then I recommend using a multi-meter ( VAC setting) and checking that you have 120volts supplied to the inducer fan. if you don't, then you need to work backward from there and see why you don't. If you do verify 120volts at your inducer motor, then more than likely it failed and will need a new one. Witch out this, your pressure switch wont close.

If your inducer fan is working fine then make sure you have 24vdc across you pressure switch (again with a multi meter but with VDC setting not VAC). 24vdc in and 24vdc out. If you only have 24VDC in but not out, then you pressure switch may be stuck open. ( This is if your inducer fan is working properly).

I hope this helps. Sorry for the long response. I just don't like people changing parts and wasting money.

Goodman... | Answered on Nov 24, 2017 | 337 views


is the thermostat set for heat and you have power going to the unit correct

Goodman... | Answered on Sep 20, 2017 | 181 views


Bypass the tstat first but that's where I'd be leaning.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Goodman... | Answered on Aug 14, 2017 | 151 views


You say 2 to 3 years... I'm assuming the unit is older than that. Especially being r22. What about the first 10 years??? Normally you will get 400 to 500 sqft per ton of cooling, but, that depends on heat load calculations. If the unit wasn't big enough you would have had this issue 10 years ago, not when the system kept running low on refrigerant. At first guess I would say a 2 ton unit is not big enough but if it worked fine for 10 years...wuth all that in mind, if it were me, (a seasoned professional) I would spend 1800 to fix my 15 year old r22 unit before I spent $4000 on a new r410a piece of junk. Best Wishes!!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Goodman... | Answered on Jun 29, 2017 | 84 views


Yes, check for obstructions. However, also check to ensure that you used an OEM pressure switch! See this video for an explanation: Amazon Furnace Parts: http://www.amazon.com/s/?_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&field-keywords=gas%20furnace%20parts&linkCode=ur2&tag=amznelite-20

Goodman... | Answered on Mar 04, 2015 | 324 views


When unit come on you need to watch the flames that shooting in all should blue. If there is any red flame kick out that would trip the flame role out switch. If the is the case you need a need heat exchanger.

Goodman... | Answered on Feb 09, 2015 | 150 views


from my experience with goodman units ,it could have been a gas supply problem there are so many protective sensors that i dont think it is the unit by the way is it electronic ignitor or pilot

Goodman... | Answered on Mar 20, 2015 | 855 views


Turn off your power, remover both the upper and lower doors. You may have to disconnect some ''molex' plug connectors and you may have to remove some thermostat wires to gain access. If you remove any wires, WRITE them down as to what terminals they go back on. The molded plugs can only go on one way so don't be too concerned about their replacement UNLESS they are individual plastic plug ins for each wire. If so...WRITE down the location and proceed.

There should be either 5/16" or 1/4" headed screws securing the blower assembly in place. The assembly itself is probably slid into position on sheet metal rails or into slots. When the proper two (usually) screws are removed, it will merely slide out the front of the furnace.

Place it on the ground and look into the side of the assembly OPPOSITE of the motor. In there you will find a 5/16" square headed set screw. Remove that screw because it secures the blower wheel to the blower motor shaft. Clean rust, dirt and debris off the exposed shaft because that will inhibit the sliding of the shaft OUT of the wheels hub. Turn it over to the motor side up. There will be three bolts or scews securing the blower motor to the blower housing by means of a three legged 'spyder' mount. Remove them and work the motor and shaft OUT OF the blower wheel hub.

You are now home free... the motor is removed. Reinstall in basically reverse of the removal procedure. Hopefully you have an IDENTICAL replacement, so there will be no wiring adaptions to figure out.

Goodman... | Answered on Jan 05, 2015 | 165 views


check continuity on hot surface igniter. no measurable ohms reading = bad igniter. also insure 120v getting to the igniter

Goodman... | Answered on Dec 30, 2014 | 492 views


check the air filter do you need the ducts cleaned out , check registers are not blocked ,

Goodman... | Answered on Dec 17, 2014 | 161 views

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