20 Most Recent Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater Questions & Answers

the problem sounds like it is with your combustion fan motor,,,there are two types. one has a syntrifical swith the others have a round box with a hose going to it that is a pressure switch, if it is the motor does not have a rubber hose coming off and has two wires instead than that is syntrifical and your only shot would be to take the moter loose and shake it out make sure there is not something that fell down in and kept it from turning, other wise u have to replace. by the way it will be the small motor at the base of the vent pipe. If it is the hose type try unplugging the two wires from the little round box that the hose goes to and connect them together if it runs by bypassing that then either the switch is out or something is plugging the hole or hose,,on the side of the blower moter where the hose comes out try poking something through the hole and make sure it is not clogged I bet this is the kind u have and the problem. good luck

Most inducer fan now come as a whole assembly. Some people can change themselves but make sure if you try this to get all the old gaskets off and be careful.

Had the same problem; should be the flame sensor, sticks in the flame to monitor temp, take out and clean it or just replace, order on on ebay for ten bucks. Save yourself a 150 bucks to call someone.

For anyone who finds this question in the future - It's the condensate drain hose for the heat exchanger.
Get a bucket and some towels handy and unplug the lowermost flexible rubber hose - if you do this right after the furnace has stopped, water will come gushing out. Mine was continually plugging up causing my furnace to stop, like yours - the L shaped plastic tube that dips into the drain trap on the outside of the unit (the thing filled with water) was too close to the bottom of the trap. I took it out, shortened it by 1/2 an inch (keep the same bevel that's on there!) and I haven't had a problem since. Blowing out the line would only hold things off for a few weeks before it started acting up again.
Cost me $90 for a service call the first time since visually it looks fine and I checked the upper hoses that go to the pressure switch :)
Learn from my service call!

Maybe a bad sequencer.unplugged wire from sequencer and see it unit shut off .Sequencer is typically a relay

Does furnace fire up ,if not you have a issue with your furnace and not thermostat

poor Wire connection on the breaker? Is the wire screwed down tight? SHUT THE MAIN OFF FOR SAFETY, then pull the breaker off the buss bar and inspect the bussbar and bottom of breaker for any burn.

It’s helpful to also use and ampmeter to check equipment amp draw vs. the amp rating on the equipment tag.

The burners are not igniting and the timer turned on the blower thinking the burners were already lit by then. You have a burner/ignition problem. Either the ignighter or themocouple is bad

The blink codes are differant on every furnace. Read your code on the schematic found on the inside of the door. You most likey have a dirty flame sensor. Under the burners you should find a "single" wire going to a connector. This will be to the far left or right. Just opposite of a "two" white wires going to the hot surface igniter. Remove the 1/4 inch screw closet to the single wire under the burner. carefully pull out the flame sensor. Clean it with a small piece of sandpaper. Re install it. This should fix your furnace. KEEP IN MIND Goodman GMP models are noted for defective heatexchangers. Pull out the blower assembly and turn it over. If small rings about the size of a dime falls out.... this furnace is unsafe and should replaced!

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Hello, The t-state set to fan "ON" will only cycle the fan to turn on only nothing else. "Auto" is where you always want the t-state on when you want to have heat and have the fan cycle off automatically after the t-stat has reached set point. As for the press switch, there can be two things that will cause the pressure switch not to close. 1: obviously the switch itself and 2: the inducer fan, this has the rubber tubing that connects to the pressure switch. When you call for heat, the inducer fan ( small fan with black plastic piece that spins ) is the first to turn on, this fan makes sure any left over exhaust air/gases are vented out before the burners turn on, it also stays on the entire heat cycle to exhaust the gases. The pressure switch needs proof of air so the pressure switch closes with the vacuum that is being created by the inducer fan in that rubber hose that is connected to the pressure switch. This allows the furnace to know " my induce fan is working, lets proceed". So, I would make sure your inducer fan is working. if you don't see it working then I recommend using a multi-meter ( VAC setting) and checking that you have 120volts supplied to the inducer fan. if you don't, then you need to work backward from there and see why you don't. If you do verify 120volts at your inducer motor, then more than likely it failed and will need a new one. Witch out this, your pressure switch wont close. If your inducer fan is working fine then make sure you have 24vdc across you pressure switch (again with a multi meter but with VDC setting not VAC). 24vdc in and 24vdc out. If you only have 24VDC in but not out, then you pressure switch may be stuck open. ( This is if your inducer fan is working properly). I hope this helps. Sorry for the long response. I just don't like people changing parts and wasting money.

is the thermostat set for heat and you have power going to the unit correct

Bypass the tstat first but that's where I'd be leaning. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

You say 2 to 3 years... I'm assuming the unit is older than that. Especially being r22. What about the first 10 years??? Normally you will get 400 to 500 sqft per ton of cooling, but, that depends on heat load calculations. If the unit wasn't big enough you would have had this issue 10 years ago, not when the system kept running low on refrigerant. At first guess I would say a 2 ton unit is not big enough but if it worked fine for 10 years...wuth all that in mind, if it were me, (a seasoned professional) I would spend 1800 to fix my 15 year old r22 unit before I spent $4000 on a new r410a piece of junk. Best Wishes!! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

depending on how old the unit is , you turn the gas valve to pilot setting, hold down the button, light and hold for 1 min.

The first thing to look at is the flame sense rod.
Shut off power to the furnace, remove, clean sensor with steel wool or sandpaper then reinstall the sensor. Reapply power and it should run properly.

You have a limit switch located in the furnace (a little bigger than a dime and located near the center of the front panel, sometimes the switch is mounted to a small fiberglass board) . There will be two wires going to it. They sometimes trip so often that they fail to automatically reset(due to dirty filters or undersized ductwork). You can SHUT OFF POWER TO THE FURNACE, then remove the two screws holding the switch in the furnace, pull the switch out of the furnace and tap on it and wipe it off.
The switch may work a few more times but should be replaced with the same size and type. You will see some rating printed on the switch somewhere. Write down all the numbers and get a replacemet from a furnace/AC supply house. If you have a meter and know how to use it you could check the switch for continuity.

Sometimes just a tap on the switch will get it going. There will also be a couple of rollout switches that could be tripped. They have little buttons on them to reset them. If they trip it may have other issues to be solved.
Hope this helps!
Matt

ignition failure. insure air pressure switch closes, hot surface igniter is getting 120volts. check continuity on hot surface igniter, make sure all gas shut off valves are open and gas valve is turned on. make sure there is no blockage in the exhaust