Question edited for clarity and all the typos.
Question moved to a better category than 'Garden'.
Surging is normally caused by an air leak. Check from the air filter all the way to the inlet manifold on the cylinder head. When you engage the blades the motor is under 'load'.
More information here, but says, 'not enough fuel or too much air'.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Kohler+7000+22+hp+engine+surging
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Question edited for FULL 'make model (what it is)'.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to Club Cadet category.
It is a known issue. You have to decrease reverse speed to increase forward speed according to one of these articles.
https://www.google.com/search?q=club+cadet+gt+2554+slow+speed
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Could be what Ray says, or could be very dirty fuel filter, partially blocked gas line, defective fuel pump or slow leak in gas line (although you'd almost certainly notice that from the smell or just plain see it). My old DR Field and Brush Mower was doing exactly the same thing, and it turned out to need the carburetor replaced.
The spark on the 25 hp Kohler is Magneto. There is likely an interlock to the PTO and Seat safety interlock. The magneto appears in some lawn garden applications to be connected via the safety interlock?
So when the engine turns the magnetic field of the flywheel activated the engine spark but if the interlock safety switches are not enabled the spark the magneto is disabled resulting in no spark. A lost spark is likely a defective or corroded switch.
I hope this helps?
Hi Susan:
The deck height is controlled by a combination of linkages and is ultimately determined by the position of the deck height selection lever.
If the deck height is changing without moving the selection lever, one of the linkage connections must be disconnected, incorrectly connected, or damaged.
Review any work that was done on the machine immediately before the problem became apparent.
Chances are good that you will quickly resolve the problem.
Cheers.
Sounds to me that the belt has stretched,to a point that it slips. Most drive belts,on a riding mower hasn't any adjustments,so the way to repair this problem is, to purchase a new belt. Hope this information helps. B. Locke
Very can be if it is an OHV engine that either the valves are needing adjusting or the decompressor has failed.
Most 4 cycle small mower engines have decompressors to help with the starting, These are only active at start-up and does not effect normal engine compression when running.
Since have had to replace the hex bushing at bottom the shaft on an MTD. Recommend you putting back a bronze version instead the plastic version they have.
You should able to access the steering shaft lower though the underside of frame; easier if you remove the deck to give you space to work.You will need to remove the nut and gear. Then you should be pull the shaft out. If replacing the bushing pull just enough so you replace; no need to completely remove it from the mower.
You might have more than one problem but I think I can tell you why it cranks slowly and draws so much current. Some of those cadets (like those with the Kohler Command 20) have a compression release mechanism on the cam which is intended to make that big engine crank easier. It disengages once the engine fires up via a centrifugal release on the (plastic) cam gear.If this part breaks, the compression release does not work, resulting in a lot of strain on the starter motor. Interesting design, bad materials. Sometimes the engine will start anyway but this is not a good idea to operate this way. Pull the valve cover. Look at the motion of the exhaust valve when you turn the engine by hand. It will look similar to the motion of the intake valve if this part is broken. If it's working correctly, you should see the exhaust valve open slightly just after the intake valve closes. I'll attach a video to show what it looks like. Replacing the bad part is a bit of work but not terrible.
