Your washer has a set amount of time to fill. If the flow is low and the time runs out, then all you will get is the amount of water that was able to fill. Check your lines to be sure that they all fully opened.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Start off by levelling/balancing :-
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0) Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then- very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice. Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up! If this corner did not rock do the same to the other. Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.
(If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal suspension is malfunctioning.)
Sorry, this forum is not able to supply any type of manual, installation instructions, electrical or schematic diagrams direct; it's just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home and from all over the world, with experience of addressing problems and giving guidance for free on the web ;-0)
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer schematic' and you MAY be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct but often they supply only to registered agents ;-0(
You could always take a look if you are confident/competent and move the drum around- but make sure power is off!
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
It might not be pumping all of the water out so I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as suggested by VinnyB1234!) It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
first assure that your faucets are turned on. Sorry I have to ask this. The next thing to check would be your inlet water valve located in the rear of the machine unscrew the hoses going to the valve and check to assure that there is no debris caught in the water valve. If you have no debris in the valve you would then remove the cover and check the solenoids on the top of the valve. Here is also a video on how to test the water valve in most top load washers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zc6NCTAF1U if you have any further questions message them back and please remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future. Thanks Rick
immediately turn off your machine and check the power outlet if there is smoke, pull out plug, maybe there is a short circuit, do not plug again, call a handyman or bring to nearest service centers.
i believe this is what we call a direct drive system 2 things it could be is the drive coupler located under unit between the transmission and motor .it is a plastic piece with 3 prongs on each side and a black rubber bushing that goes in between each side to connect ..it is somewhat like a shear pin on a tractor it is designed to break when to much pressure... before you check this make sure the unit is making some sort of noise when it is suppose to agitate or spin..you should hear the motor running just won't spin the tub... if you are not hearing anything then i would suspect you have a bad lid switch on the unit... the lid switch is like a safety switch while running if the lid is raised the unit will stop power supply to motor ...you can check the lid switch byby passing it temporarily and see if it works .... one of the 2 may be your issue.... good luck to you
there is actually a brake on this unit and you have to remove the thrust bearing and pulley from under unit..there are several washers so be ware and a keyway that has to be removed...the problem is when you get to the brake replacement you have to have aspecial tool to renove the brake ...there are approx. (6) 5/16 screws that come out of the plate so you have to have a tool to hold the brake assembly in place as there is a huge spring with about 200lbs of pressure on it.you can get it off but it is hell getting it on without tool... it is a brake removal tool that maytag sales
hope this helps....whats going on is there is a disk like brake and the unit has rubber on the outside that makes contact with the metal to slow down and stop spin cycle the rubber is worn and now you are hearing the metal on metal start. good luck pleae vote....
