20 Most Recent Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton 6200 Watt Portable Generator Questions & Answers

The first thing to do is to check and see if it is getting any spark to the plug. To check for spark, remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder. Attach the spark plug wire to the spark plug. Using insulated tools so you do not get shocked, hold the base of the plug to the bare metal of the engine. Crank the engine and observe the plug for spark. There should be a bright blue spark jumping the gap of the spark plug. Is there spark present? If not, we need to look at the ignition system. If there is spark, remove the air filter. While cranking the engine, spray in some gas or carb cleaner - do not use starting fluid. Will this allow the engine to try and start? If so, your carburetor is dirty. As gas gets old, it turns to varnish and clogs up the passageways inside the carburetor, not allowing enough gas to get to the engine. This condition is cumulative. Every time gas sits, the varnish builds up just a little more, like coats of paint, until eventually gas can not flow. It will not happen overnight, but the symptoms can show up all of a sudden, even while simply stopping to refill with gas. The use of fuel additives, such as Sta-Bil or Sea Foam will not stop this process from happening. They will greatly slow it down, but the gas will still go bad. When this happens, either the engine simply will not start, or it will not run without the choke on (this reduces the amount of air getting pulled into the engine, changing the fuel/air mixture), or it will run but surges. Another issue that varnish in the carb can cause is that the varnish may not allow the float needle to seal properly against the seat, causing the flow of gas to not shut off when the bowl is full. The result will be gas overflowing the carb and running into the cylinder, and possibly out the air intake. If the gas gets into the cylinder, it will seep past the rings and down into the crankcase. This will be evidenced by your oil level being over-full and/or the oil smelling like gas. The only 2 solutions are to either replace the carburetor or give it a good, thorough cleaning. When removing the carb, make sure to take a good picture, or make a good drawing of where all springs and linkages are attached. This will make reassembly much easier. Most people believe that cleaning a carb involves removing the bowl and wiping it out, then spraying some carb cleaner through it. This is simply insufficient. To properly clean the carb, you must remove it, disassemble it (making sure to remove all non-metal parts), and soak it in a commercial solvent for several hours. Soaking it overnight is even better. Then clean all solvent off with a spray type carb cleaner, making sure to get lots of cleaner into every hole and passage there is. Pay special attention to the tiny holes in the bore of the carb, under the throttle plate for the carbs that have these holes. Use lots of cleaner. And make sure to wear safety goggles to avoid getting the over spray into your eyes. There will be over spray. Dry the carb with low pressure compressed air. When reassembling the carb, make sure to use a carb kit, when one is available for your carb. Occasionally, even a good cleaning is not going to be sufficient, and you may end up having to replace the carb anyhow. Be prepared for this. If spraying in the gas or carb cleaner allows the engine to actually start and run, you will still need to clean the carb - as the idle circuit is most likely restricted.

Usually the cause of slightly low voltage like this is that the engine is not running at full operating RPM. Find the high speed adjusting screw on the govenor linkage and adjust the engine RPM until the output is 220V - 240V

what is the spark plug gap

I would look on the side of the tire to see what the max P.S.I. is and inflate it to that point, but NO higher. Max PSI is determined by the size of the tire and ply rating. By inflating it to the maximum you will be able to roll it around much easier than if it was under inflated.

I recently had trouble with my own generator. My situation was that the old gas left in the unit smelled more like lacquer than gas, the generator had not been cranked in over a year, and it simply wouldn't even attempt to fire when pulling the starter cord.I checked the oil level, and drained and replaced the gas. I applied liberal amounts of carburetor cleaner into carburetor. The generater would briefly fire with cleaner in the carburetor. I also removed the spark plug, grounded it against the chasis, and observed good spark when I pulled the cord. This left me to believe gas simply was not getting into carburetor. I removed the bowl and saw it was full of gas. With a container ready to catch any gas, I opened the valve near the tank and observed liberal amounts of fuel spilling from where bowl mounts to carburetor. So, good gas flow to bowl confirmed.Using carburetor cleaner and compressed air, I blew out and attempted to clean every orifice I could see. I also checked the float assembly and saw the needle valve that allows/blocks fuel into bowl was operating freely. Reassembled everything, and still wouldn't start. Took the bowl back out and gave the float assembly further inspection. On my unit, there is a large hole in the center of the assembly where the "perforated brass straw" should be sucking up gas. In the bottom of that hole I discovered a brass plug. I didn't spot this plug before because is was totally encrusted in trash. I was able to remove the plug. This thing is about 4mm long and wide. In the center of this plug I discovered a completely clogged hole. I had to actually scrape it clean with a metal pick, being careful not to damage the metal. I then followed up with lots of carb cleaner and compressed air to make the plug and the tiny hole completely clean. I replaced the plug, replaced the bowl, and the generator fired right up.I wanted to share my story with you because of the frustration I went through taking my carburetor off at least 8 times before finally discovering this tiny brass plug that no one on any of the forums has ever mentioned.

Sounds like your carb needs rebuilt .This condition is caused by blockage of ports and jets in the carb .Running a fuel stabilizer will help prevent this .

Depending on the engine, you will find an arm attached to a small shaft coming out of the engine block. This governor arm is where there is attached a governor spring and the linkage going to the carb. The governor spring is attached to the arm on one end and to either a bolt or a tab of metal on the other end. If attached to a bolt, you will find a lock nut and enables you to increase tension on the spring (pull harder) thus increasing engine speed. If you have a metal tab, by bending the tab away from the spring, you will be applying more tension. You will not be bending carb linkage. Before you make any changes, find a meter that can measure Hz . Plug the meter into house plug and notice that hz reading will be 60 cycles. Then read voltage at house plug, could be 115 thru 120 or higher. Your generator produces 60 cycles when it turns 3600 rpm. Before you make any adjustments, plug meter into outlet and check hz. If reading is at 60hz, the engine is already running at max indicating problem with actual generator parts and not engine running slow. If cycles low, adjust by bending tab pulling harder on the gov. spring, or adjust screw to pull on he spring. In either case, adjust a little and re-test. With engine running to produce 60 cycles, the voltage should be between 115 thru 120. Some generators have an adjustment screw to increase voltage on the voltage regulator inside the gen set. Look for Good luck