Toro Lawnmower 20099 Mower Mowers Lawn - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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arrow alway on most bikes points at the exhaust or outlet side

Hi Kohler plug (14 13203-S) or genuine OEM #14 132 03-S if u cross reference RJ19LM THERE R 20 REPLACEMENT plugs CHEERS

Could be the valve in the carby. Had a similar problem with my Victa. Have a look on the internet for briggs and Stratton engine carby service. It was really helpful. Your carby may be different but the info I found was very helpful and explains how the power valve operates and what to do to prevent surges and power loss.

Have you ever oiled all the little working parts on your mower? The adjusters also get dry and they rust up or just get dirty. You can try to oil all the areas that move on the height adjusters and see what happens.

you will have to pull the front wheel steering spindells if they dont have grease fittings and grease them

it has an electromagnetic clutch switch on it,that is more than likely bad. Try this,pull the pto switch out and start the engine,then disconnect the 2 wires coming from the switch and just tap them together and see if they will come on. If they do then you need to replace that switch.

Usually it is easiest to pull the bolt, washers, and spacer that hols on the idler pulley. The only items are belt guides if so equipped.

check to make sure your safty switch is not engaging causing no spark other than that your coil would be bad but they hardly ever go bad i think your problem is with the safty switch

Could be several things. Starter sol hooked up wrong, key switch bad... well ok thats pretty much it, check those things then see what happens.

There could be a whole bunch of things to cause this, from a badly worn engine to just a valve stuck open, a dealer could do a leakdown test on the engine and give a more definate reason for the problem, or you could remove the cylinder head ( side valve engine ) and check the valves are opening whilst turning the engine.

Here it is: http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/murray/22_selfpropelled.html?idRes=385579

sounds like a float style carb and your dumping fuel into the engine when you tip it is your fuel line long enough to add a shut off valve?

Here is diagram.

I have the same machine, [pull plug wire for safety] tip machine on it's side, next remove blade, now remove all the plastic shields that are above blade right to the deck bottom. You wont believe the grass build up around blade shaft. On this machine as you select your speed the pulley travels on shaft, but with the grass build up the pulley can't move. I've done mine twice now in the last 4 years. You'll need around 3 hours, good luck it's not that bad.

The gap should be about .010 (Ten Thousandths of an inch), but truthfully, the way I set it is to loosen the coil bolts and place a shiny business card in between the coil and flywheel. Tighten the coil up snug against the business card and then remove it. This should set the gap close enough to the correct setting for you; done. Hope this helps and best of luck to you. James

Hi
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting a nice blue spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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No No No No!!! If your mower is definitely a 4 stroke then do NOT put 2 cycle engine oil in it (and I hope they didn't either). Drain out whatever's in there completely and put standard 30 wt. oil in there. Not 10W30, but straight 30 weight. Use synthetic even if you want longer engine life.

let it warm up with choke closed manually after it starts to stall with choke closed open it and dont let it stall u can learn to play with the choke a little to get it to run right GOOD LUCK!

Just click on the Link I'm sending you and you should find what you need here:

www.hondapowerequipment.com/faq/

Jim