Samsung has quite a high failure/problem rate among their products. Ice makers are no exception.
Sometimes,but not often, a reboot of the appliance will solve the issue. This is done simply by unplugging/ or turning off the breaker for 5 minutes and then turning back on again.
Remove the bucket and shine a light up in there to see if anything might be jammed. Remove as necessary.
There is a button toward the front, top, right side of this icemaker. it looks like a clear piece of rubber but will push in with your finger. Light pressure is usually enough.
This will manually force the icemaker into a cycle so watch it/listen and see if something happens. If it does not, then replace the icemaker (yes they go bad after just a year and a half)
part# I found is DA97-05422A but you may want to check with the parts store as Samsung changes part numbers often!
Samsung draws are removable, but they are a pain and have to be pulled out, then lift up which allows you to bet the nylon wheel guide to dip under stops, and sometimes takes a little force taking out, and putting back in.
CERACOAT-NANOTECH.com
A good place to view exploded parts diagrams is Sears Parts. See http://www.searspartsdirect.com/samsung-refrigerator-parts/model-RFG297AARSXAA0000/1482/0161000.html. Note that the parts you are looking for could be in the left door diagram or mor likely the cabinet diagram.
5E or SE error appears when you have a shorted touchpad and the solution for this is to to put your fingers on the upper right and left sides of the display and the display will restart.
The reason why you are getting this is because when the power is restored there are events where voltages increase for a few seconds (power surge). It is recommended that if you have a power outage you should unplug the power cable of your fridge to avoid damage.
Let me know if this helps.
There are 6 buttons on your display. If you hold the top left one and the middle right one at the same time you turn it into forced defrost. You push the middle right button 2 more times to initiate both coils. The unit should start beeping and can not be shut off unless you unplug it. Check behind the unit in the main board with a amp clamp on the thick wires and see if you're pulling 3 or more amps off the thick orange wire. Or which everyone is labeled heater on the board. If this is working and you're not having a lot of frost build up behind the back panels. Then you have a sealed system issue and I would check the frost pattern on the evaporator to make sure. Unplug it and plug it back in with the freezer back panels pulled down to see how the frost pattern is after 2 hours of running. If it's not completely frosted, check your owners manual because sealed system issues are usually good with samsung and they are covered by manufacturers for X years.
I'm no expert but because of the problems I've had with this product, I'm getting better. It sounds like you need to replace the Dispenser circuit panel, part #DA97-07821N. It cost about $170.00. You need to remove the old panel. You do this by pulling forward (by hand only) on the display panel from its underside. You will notice a small rectangular hole on the right underside that is large enough for the tip of a wide flat blade screw driver. You can insert it here to assist in pulling the panel forward. Don't insert it too far, only enough to give you some purchase on the panel. Start pulling on this right side and work your way over to the left side being careful not to break the tabs that hold the panel in place. There are two tabs on the right and two tabs on the left and one at the middle top. Once you work out the two tabs on the right, the other tabs will release more easily. Once the panel is removed, it is just "plug & play." Just match up the wire connectors the same way they were on the old panel. When the new panel is connected, insert the panel on to the left tabs first making sure that the wires are tucked into place properly and not "pinched" then work your way over to the right side and pressing the panel on the edges (press around the edges only, don't press the LCD screen) to make sure the panel is seated securely on to the tabs on both sides and the top. turn on the water and plug it it and you should be good.
If the refrigerator water dispenser is not working correctly the water supply tube in the door may be blocked. This will be difficult to track down. Look for a connection point at the bottom or top of the door, try removing the hose and blowing air through it and out the dispenser. Next it could be the water valve that sometimes has twin valves for ice and water combined, third is low pressure into the line (bad main valve) or clogged filter... you need about 20psi for function. Last is the door switch, when the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice and water dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on or may just dispense one item. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn't have continuity it should be replaced.
