20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite 20972 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The tray's door solenoid has likely failed.

You'll need a new tray.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




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It appears your thermostat has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.

The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.

If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.

Bearing failure in this machine is very common.

I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.

The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.

If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.

This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.




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It appears your drive belt/coupling or main controller board has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

“F21” (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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Hi there :)

You most likely have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling".
If the washer has a clicking sound when in spin cycle, it's probably the coupling.

I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons
that i've discovered.

1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt,
which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.
2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it's lasted you for this long.

Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time,
so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120
at most.

Best of luck!

I need to replace the lid switch on a Kenmore 80 series top load washer with the model #11082980120. How do I get the lid off?

check the drain hoses from the wash tub all the way to the drain for kinks or obstructions,then check the pump body for damaged impellers or debris inside such as coins, etc

this could be due to blockage @pump or the motor wont spin if water not pumped out ..Check filter/clear pump.please leave me me feedback.

yes that is how some parts are plus it is like a two hour job

Check the operation of the drain pump and the rest of the drain system. Lay the drain hose out near the floor (put the end in a pan or bucket) to see if it will gravity drain). It must drain to get to the spin cycle. Hope this helps!

This problem is very simple, inexpensive and easy to repair.

Whirlpool manufactured washers use a split agitator design. The upper portion is called the auger, while the bottom is called the agitator. Between these components is a agitator cam assembly. This problem is commonly caused by worn agitator dogs or the agitator cam assembly. The following link explains what the dogs are and how to replace them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

The part number is included in the link provided. You can purchase replacements at pcappliancerepair.com for about $5. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam replacement kit, which includes the cam, the thrust bearing, and the dogs for about $11 or $12.


NOTE: You can refer to the excellent exploded view parts diagrams the web site has to offer for assistance. Whirlpool also recommends the application of a little grease on the thrust washer. The part number for their recommended grease is AP3098553.

The special tool that you need to use to get the recessed agitator bolt off is a 3/8" to 1/2" rachet adapter. You can purchase one at any hardware store if you don't have one.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub opening under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: DO NOT overtighten the agitator bolt. This can cause damage to the plastic, or restrict the agitator movement. Tighten until snug only.

Un plug it and remove the rear dust cover. On the back side to your left is the blower/filter housing. To your right is the heating element and limits. On the filter/blower housing is a small white component about an inch long with two wires and it is mounted with one screw. This is the duct fuse. The wires are small because they are connected to the door switch. When that blower has a lint restriction that fuse blows. This kills the door circuit and it is the same as if you opened the door. The dryer stops and stays stopped until you take steps to correct the overheating by cleaning out the lint that is causing the air movement restrictions. The following page is supplimental info, repair manuals, and repair pictures:
Dryer Problems and solutions
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

This is commonly caused by a clog in the exhaust vent ducting. If you have not inspected the ducting any time recently, now may be a good time to do so.

The problem can also be internal. If the blower fan assembly becomes clogged, it can exhibit the same symptoms due to poor air flow.

A simple test you can try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and try drying a load as you normally would. The air flow leaving the back of the dryer should be warm and forceful.

If the air flow is normal and your clothes dry like they should, you have a clog or restriction somewhere in the exhaust vent from the point where it leaves to dryer, to where it exits your home. You will need to inspect and clean as necessary.

NOTE: The exhaust should be at least 12 inches from the ground to prevent rodent intrusion. If you use an exhaust vent cover, make sure it is the louvered variety. Using any type of screen can clog easily. In addition, you should be using the semi-rigid metal type ducting. It resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation. A kinked hose can exhibit the same symptoms as a clogged dryer.

If the air flow is weak, you have an internal clog. You will need to access your dryer air blower assembly to ensure the fan is moving properly and it not clogged. Rodents are notorious for building nests in these areas and blocking the air flow.

A clogged dryer will actually over heat, because these is no air flow to keep the heat circulating. The result is a dryer that appears to be very hot, but the clothes take longer times than usual to dry. If left in this condition, the heating circuits will eventually fail.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

you don't have to wait. just plug it in.

This most likely indicates a problem with the self defrost system. The most likely cause is a faulty defrost thermostat. Other possible causes are a faulty defrost timer or defrost heater. The defrost timer and the defrost heater can be checked with a multimeter or ohm meter for continuity. If there is no continuity, the component is defective. I would check these items first, and then, if they are good, I would replace the thermostat. Hope this helped and best wishes.

this is the new style connectors push in on the blue end of the connector and pull on the hose it will come out of the quick connect connector

MAKE SURE TO FLUSH-OUT DRAIN LINE. WATER IF IT IS DRAINING TO SLOW WILL START LEAKING AROUND THE LOWER PART OF THE WASHER WHERE THERE IS A SAFTEY OVER FLOW ... IF YOURS IS A FREE STANDING TOP LOADER THE DRAIN HOSE IS IETHER SEPERATE OR FLOWS WITH A CHECK VALVE THAT HOOHS RIGHT TO YOUR FAUCET. MAKE SURE THE CHECK VALVE AT THE FAUCET CONNECTION IS FREE AND NOT STUCK.

Your motor is attached to the pump,your pump seal is locked up needs replacing or purchase a new pump.Because it is a job replacing seal,if your a first timer.