Top 20 Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Remove the screws attaching the bottom of the bottom panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. Once the panel is off, you'll see the filter knob on the pump housing. Turn the filter knob counterclockwise to remove and clean it. Also reach in the pump impeller with your finger then turn it manually to check if restricted, obstructed, or broken. The impeller should turn freely for the water to be pumped out properly out to the drain hose.

You have to replace the door lock and switch assembly which is part number 131763202. Your machine is made by Frigidaire so check out the procedure here.

Replacing the Door Lock and Switch Assembly on a Frigidaire/Frigidaire-made Front-Load Washing Machine

turn the tub by hand and see if it wabbles if so only one fix replace inner tub.

Sarah,
How old is you machine? You would need a repair person to open up your machine. But if it is under waranty, get a sears guy to open it up.
If not under warranty, get someone you trust and you know what he/she is doing.
Are you in the GTA area, if so send me a note
bweazer at yahoo dot ca

the timer is likely faulty.

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if the door is still locked and there is water in there use a wet dry shop vac and attach it to the end of the drain hose to remove the water once the water is removed then the lock should release and the door open if this works then you may need to check the drain pump and remove all the hoses to the pump and look for any obstructions that may be blocking or resticting the pump.

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 – is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.

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My unit is 7.5 years old and started to do the same thing a few days ago. When I pulled the top lid off, there was a fist size hole near the top from where the steel drum had shifted at high speed to hit and shattered a piece out that was now laying on the base of the machine. I'm not certain yet if the bearing is integrated in housing that is now broke or not (I think it is since it isn't called out seperate on the parts sheet) but the housing needs to be replaced and will be about $210 with shipping/tax. I also suspect the drum/spider assembly is damaged/unsafe now and would need replacement...another $200 and thats assuming I did the work myself.

I went today and ordered a Frigidaire FTF530FS which is the same machine (pull up a parts list and you'll see near all the parts have the same part number) as the Kenmore but without the option to have warm rinse cycles and a Perm Press cycle (neither of which we ever use in our household) and only costs $548 and gave a 25% in-store rebate from Menards (ApplianceSmart I think offered %15 off on their sale). I am in process of disassemblying the Kenmore and keeping all the parts that I feel comfortable changing. This depends of course on how comfortable you are with your handyman skills. Open up your lid and you'll see it's a fairly straight forward machine and there is a wiring digram/timing chart in an envelope in the base of the machine.

This way I have a bunch of spare parts for my new machine, and I'll recycle the rest of myself. Given that 7 years seems to be the current norm for Front Load machines, I hope you are pleased with getting the 10 (but I still hope they start improving their life expectancy in newer models). G'luck.

The drain valve/pump is struck or clogged with dirt so that it is not shut. So remove from the bottom the drain hose to get the valve out , check if the valve is working after cleaning with an external voltage as it will open & close. If not the valve must be changed.
It is also possible that the program controller can be short in the drain output and is constantly keeping the valve opened. So release off power in the first place to confirm and if still the water drains we have the culprit.

do (door open) = bad door lock mechanism.

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

To answer your question, as long as it is indeed a frontload washer with the dryer on top, yes they can be replaced individually.

The model number provided is only partial, therefore I can`t verify the unit is frontload or an Kenmore integrated "laundry center" built by frigidaire.

You can reply with a model number, but as I alluded to if it is frontload, no problem.

Good luck going forward. Thank`s for choosing FixYa. Let me know if you require further assistance.

Macmarkus :)

The only thing that will cause the knocking after that, is if A) The transportation bolts are still attatched or B)possibly one of the balancing springs on the top are broken or C) If the drum is noisy on spin, and possibly experiencing a small leak during operation, then the bearings and seal are faulty. This causes excess movement when spinning making the drum uncontrolable. Note.Make sure the washing mahine is not standing on any wooden structure or the like, and the machine should not be placed on a smooth tiled floor.(This does not let the springs and shocks function properly which in turn cause the machine to bounce and knock.)

May be something in the pump.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

The "F21" on the majority of Kenmore model washers indicates the machine has detected a fault or obstruction in the drain process.

If you find this does not look like your washer, please post the model number and we can go from there.


Chances are the pump is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although that can`t be ruled out...yet.

Here`s how to check it and clean it...

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet ) 3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.

( If the problem still exist`s the "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the drain hose, hose from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a hundred bucks !

Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.

**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.

**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**
Let me know how it goes and if you require further assistance.

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Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

This can be caused by a restriction in the hose. Check for kinks or that the tap is fully open. Depending on water hardness the problem may actually be in your pipes rather than the machine. Not until its connected to a semi restriction will you realise that the pipes are clogged.
Depending on age of the machine the inlet valve may be partially closed or open as the case may be.

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Hi


Error code F03 on Kenmore means that there is draining problem or a filling issue with the washer. Check if the washer is draining; also make sure that it is not kinked or clogged. If the drain hose is not kinked then next thing to check is Drain Pump. Check out this link to disassemble your washer---

Kenmore Washer disassembly

Now, check the drain pump for any blockages. Make sure that you have a container to collect water when you open drain hoses from the pump as it has a lot of water inside.


If the drain pump is fine then it is an issue with filling of washer. Check whether washer is filling and the pressure is fine. Also, make sure you check the softener dispenser. Pull the dispenser drawer out and clean it thoroughly. Make sure that the siphon hole in the dispenser is clear and not restricted or plugged. Please post back for any further assistance.


Daniel

most kenmore front loaders have either a door below the lock or, you can pull out the pedestal then: reach up inside where the lock is and, feel for a lever or, a ring pull the ring down or, the lever over, sorry I can't be more specific but, this info should help.

The water temp problem is because your cold water inlet valve is not opening. It's a dual water inlet valve and the whole thing has to be replaced. It's located where the water hose is connected to the dryer.
The final spin problem is probably caused by the control which is not making contact when it gets to that spot in the cycle. I have had luck taking the control apart and cleaning the contacts.

sounds like your door switch. does your door lock?

I want you to run an empty load, pour 3-4 cups of white vinager into the soap dispencer, this will flush out detergent buildup, it sounds like the unit has a buildup of soap and is oversudsing, the vinager wash will stop it from happening, if this stops the problem cut the amount of soap you are using in 1/2. If it does not let me know, good luck