20 Most Recent Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer - Page 11 Questions & Answers

Hi,
It sounds like you have something stuck in the pump.
To repair
Unplug machine.
Remove bottom front panel(remove 2-3 screws in the bottom) Pull bottom of panel out and down to remove.
Towards the center bottom you will see the pump. On the front is a round thing that resembles a filter. This is the pump filter screen...Get a shallow pan to put under screen. Turn lid counter clockwise to remove(turn slowly and allow water to drain. As you may need to dump pan several times before all water is drained out. Be carful or you could end up with water everywhere. Once the water is drained pull out screen and remove the debris and objects stuck in screen and filter housing you should also be able to see the impeller on the pump inspect for debris. Once everything is cleaned out reverse removal procedures put back together.

The "drum mount" referenced on Kenmore front-loaders - this "3-location" description - seems to indicate it's a "cage" bolted to the very back of the drum itself - a part INTERNAL to the entire drum assembly ... and isn't a D.I.Y. job. You'll likely need a new "tub-spin" assembly ... which costs more than a brand new, high-end washer after the technician labor kicks in. My former Kenmore (417.29042992) didn't show this "3-location" drum *holder* available as a separate piece ...

But ... before you throw too much money into a repair - and you *DO* realize that these modern, rather expensive washers / dryers *ARE* simply "throw-away" items, don't you? - check the level / shock absorbers - mounted at 5 and 7 o'clock on each lower side of the drum as you're facing the front door.

When one breaks - and many do - this throws the whole machine outta whack and that's generally the cause of the initial "banging" of a drum. Using the machine after that only leads to MORE damage - usually fatal to the machine as far as $$$. One banging? VERY bad. More bangings? Death of the machine is imminent.

A pair of shocks are 25-40 bucks - and an easy D.I.Y. job - and may allow you to extend the life of YOUR particular machine if something more serious hasn't already been destroyed - but you can never wash many unbalanced loads - i.e. VERY large, absorbent items such as a super-thick bath mat - inside the drum - EVER again. Once a drum has banged, it's a sign that it's gonna happen again ... and it'll be easier to happen than before and will continue to "eat" itself to death.
Thanks!!

The bellow does wear out with age and can also become mishapened from repeated pressure from the door being closed. Over time the bellow can stretch or develop rips and tears and begin to leak. If the bellow is leaking, or no longer sealing correctly, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: If you leave the door OPEN between washes this will help prevent constant pressure on the door seal which can stretch it out of shape over time. It is also beneficial to allow the wash tub to air out to prevent mold and mildew from forming. Also DO NOT overload the washer. This can contribute to premature wear of the door bellow and cause rips and tears.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote... it will give you some things to try...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3867591-washer_troubleshooting_water_not

heatman101

you feed it onto the lip of case to fit then refit securing ring if ones fitted

NO ANY GOOD NAME BRAND DETERGENT WILL WORK

your water fill valves are leaking severely,you should see water dripping in there all the time if its this bad and your clothes should still be wet,not damp even after a good spin after the final spin

It's quite possible, however,

If you're mechanically inclined, I'd check the motor, transmission and pump first.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load, direct drive washers and it's trouble-shooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See the following for how to pull the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission to check them all.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

YOU DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE TUB.

Snaggs, If your model number begins with 417 it could be a couple of issues. Start with the drain pump. Remove the bottom panel and see if the pump is clogged with coins or debris. It will be on the right. Check the pump impeller. Have a bunch of towells handy as you will have a lot of water coming out at you. When you drop the bottom panel you will be able to see if the belt is on in back. If this does not clear up the problem, more than likley it will be in the motor control board. Catriver...post back.

Look inside the base and find the envelope taped there. Follow the instructions for an electronic diagnostic test. The perform any other testing suggested. For example, E47 indicates a door lock sensor issue. The instructions say do test 9, which requires an ohm meter test to determine if the latch sensor or the motor control board is defective.

sounds like your bearing is shot
is this a fridgedair?
does it sound like a 747 or freight train?
if yes might as well throw it away
I would say your looking at about 5-6 hundred dollars to repair
you will need the basket and outer tub
the reason is your bearing is compressed from the factory in your outer tub and your basket shaft goes through the bearing
and usually gets eaten up by the bearing

change your water valve

there is a water inlet on the right side of the detergent filling cup to flush out the dry detergent. take out the fill and it is midway back on the right(little rubber hose) once you locate that take the top panel off and follow the hose, should lead to a silinoid. this is most likely sticking open, or the line is broken and dumping water into the washer cavity instead of in the detergent cup. hope that gets you started in the right direction.

you can order that part from Repairclinic.com

If there is a kick plate, why I say this is because Kenmore can be any kind.. So if there is a kick plate there will either be 2 or 3 screws to take off then you will see the pump, if there isn't a kick plate you will have to go through the back of the unit.

Sounds like a problem with the solenoid water inlet valves.

In order for the washer to control the hot and cold water coming in to the machine, there are two solenoid valves.
As the water is only slowly filling, most likely there is some debris traped in the valve that is stopping the valve fully closing.

If you have the skills, disconnect the machine from the power and the incoming water supplies, take the top of the machine off and you should be able to work out which are the valves. Remove them and give them a throough clean.
If you dont fancy doing this yourslef, time to call an engineer for a quote.

Its probably because the items are too heavy for the washer to safely spin.

If you squeeze some of the water out of them into a sink then put it on spin cycle, it should work. Otherwise spin them in two loads. Its a bit of a pain but its to protect the washing machine mechanical parts.

Hope that helps!

It's possible that your lint filter is blocked or that the exhaust tube thru which air is vented outside is blocked. Clear both as best you can and see if that makes a difference.

Unplug for 3 minutes and plug back in.