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Kenmore 42822 Front Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers
Model 11026955690. Why does screen indicate LP?
I am not familiar with any error code referencing "
LP". Could you be seeing "
LF"?
Below are the error codes listed for your washer:
- "LF" (Long Fill) Inlet hoses are kinked or clogged or water valve screens are not clear. (Solution: Straighten inlet hoses or clear screens of any foreign material.)
- "LD" (Long Drain) Drain hose is kinked or clogged. (Solution: Straighten or unclog hose.)
- "FF" (Fill Failure) Problem with water level sensing system. (Solution: Call for service.)
- "OL" (Open Lid) Lid Is open during drain or spin. (Solution: Close lid.)
- "PF" (Power Failure) Power to washer went off during cycle. (Solution: Press any pad to clear the display. Restart the washer from the beginning of the cycle.)
Source:
Kenmore 11026955690 Manual
Kenmore front load washer, door is locked
If your Kenmore front load washer door is locked and you are unable to open it, you can try the following steps:
- Make sure the washer is powered off and unplugged from the electrical outlet for at least 10 minutes. This can reset the control board and possibly unlock the door.
- Check if there is any visible obstruction preventing the door from opening, such as clothes or laundry detergent pods stuck in the latch mechanism. Carefully remove any obstructions if found.
- Look for a manual release mechanism on the front of the washer. Some models have a small access panel near the bottom or a pull cord that can be used to manually unlock the door. Refer to your washer's manual for instructions on locating and using the manual release mechanism.
- If the above steps do not work, you may need to contact Kenmore customer support or schedule a service appointment to have a technician assist with unlocking the door. They will have more specific troubleshooting steps for your specific model and can diagnose any potential mechanical or electrical issues causing the door lock problem.
Kenmore front loading washer
LOUD NOISES IN, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.
In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.
If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.
Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, then carefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.
All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.
Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet
Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.
If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.
Another noise issue can arise from a worn SNUBBER RING on some washers that have a snubber like some Maytags, if u notice tiny pc's of white/grey shavings on the floor or around the bottom washer area? A sign of bad snubber. When removing to replace be careful as the spring underneath is pressure loaded.
A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.
Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
GRINDING NOISES:
The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.
One Way To Test For Spin Bearing Noise Is To Lift Up Top Part Of Machine With The Lid Taped Down, Explained Below, Put It In Spin Cycle, And Quickly Place The Palms Of Your Hand Inside Of Basket Pushing Against Opposite Ends In The Basket To Stop It From Turning, Yes It Can Be Done Because It Takes A While Before It Starts Spinning At Full Speed, If Noise Has Gone Away, Its Your Spinner Bearing. Do Not Repeat Until You Stopped The Machine And Start Over Again. The Same Kind Of Noise Can Also Be A Bad Water Pump, Which Are Known To Fail And Have Since Been Redesigned, But That Noise Will Be Heard In Spin And Agitate Mode, And The Noise Will Have A Higher Pitch Sound, More Like A Screeching Sound.
Why does the water in a Kenmore washer 800 series top load washer as soon as you plug it into the wall it comes on starts running water and when the water cycle starts it doesn't stop running water
I would check with meter the water pressure switch and or the water inlet valve.
Washer fills with water and overflows:
The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of wether it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. Also check for hard water and debris build up in the screens located on the inlet valve To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Also another trick to check the water valve, is to first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
My Kenmore Model 110.47081 front load washing machine is throwing a code F20. Water supply is fine. input H & C screens are clear. Any suggestions?
The washer's F20 code indicates that it hasn't filled to the expected level in the usual ~8 minutes. Does any water actually enter the washer? If it doesn't, then the inlet valves are not opening. If you get a trickle of water, then the valves may be clogged. In both cases, replacing the inlet valve solves the problem. (For a slow fill, sometimes using household vinegar can break up the calcium carbonate. This is usually a temporary solution.) If the water enters the tub and then the pump starts draining the unit, adjust the drain hose. You need the end of the drain hose higher than the water level in the tub.
If water is pouring into the tub and it fills normally, then the system that detects water flow is damaged. This involves a pressure switch that has an air hose connected to part of the sensor. Check if this hose is damaged or clogged. Blow out the clog and see if that fixes the problem. Otherwise replace the pressure switch.
I can't find a 110.47081 parts diagram. Check your washer for the model number. There are probably three additional digits to the model suffix.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
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