20 Most Recent Kenmore 24932 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

check your pump..

There is a good chance the lid switch is bad. The model number is usually under the lid hen you open the lid check at the back of the opening when the water injector is.

Does your machine make any noise(humming or slight whine)? If so then something may be seized, try spinning the tub by hand, if it moves then it may then be the motor itself is seized. Test power(with ac 120v meter) at motor, which should be located underneath the machine, just under tub.If you have power right to motor, then it is very likely that it is your motor. If no power to the power, then something in your selector switch has malfunctioned; continue to follow your power supply until you find the short.

You probably have a bad switch. Slaming the doors only makes things worse. Try replacing the switch and no more slaming

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Sounds like a failed motor coupler part number 285753. It connects the motor to the trans. You can lean the unit back to change this part. Remove the pump remove the motor and you will see it.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Methinks you need a manual!
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
In the meantime here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive ir spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging.

The spin tube is bad ...

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If you look at the section on "Machine Base Parts" you'll see a number of springs and vibration pads.

It's possible that one or more of the springs or pads has come loose or broken.

In order to get to them you have to remove the cabinet.

Here is a description of how to do it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=90fdc122f6335c7c64f46f2ea1b1c887


Also see the Whirlpool Service Manual for top load washers. It has a troubleshooting section that describes the reasons for excessive walking or vibration.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


If it's not the springs or pads, you may consider that the "Agitator Cams" in the transmission are not raising the Agitator Gear high enough (about 1/16" ) when the washer goes into spin mode.

See the description of what the Cams do in the Service Manual.

We had the same problem, excessive vibration and noise during the spin cycle.

In order to solve that problem, :

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

It sounds a bit complicated but it really isn't too bad and (For a $15 part, saved buying a $170 transmission.)

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models use the same part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

there is a fault with your spin cycle speed this is normally an internal gearbox fault

Since the motor does the pumping and spinning I recon you have a broken lid switch.

Topsloshers Kenmore Notes

4 most common probs of a Kenmore washer If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

If you look closely you will likely see a small crack in the valve itself and yes it can be replaced relatively easy.

If you can post back with the complete model ( should begin with a 110 followed by 5 or 6 digits )

I can even tell you which valve you need and how to change it.

Good luck, I`ll watch for your reply.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

If this is a Kenmore series top loader, the most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $25 - $35 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare.


Another cause of a no drain issue can be a clogged drain pump or drain line. The following link explains how to access the drain pump and replace (if necessary):


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3794382-replacing_water_pump_whirlpool_top


These pumps are strictly mechanical (no electrical connections) and have one moving part - the impeller. You will need to remove the drain lines to inspect the pump interior as these pumps do not come apart. Check the drain lines and impeller area for any lodged items.


CAUTION: You will need to drain the wash tub PRIOR to removing any of the drain lines. A quick and easy way is to use a wet/dry shop vac to remove the water. If you do not own a shop vac, simple gravity will work by placing the drain hose on the ground and allowing the water to run out. If this is not feasible because of the washer location, you will need to bail.


If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. These are very simple repairs that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Are you sure you see a belt on this washer? I ask because the model number you provided does NOT have a drive belt. Whirlpool manufactured top loaders (such as your Kenmore) use a motor coupling in place of a drive belt. This type of configuration is known as "Direct-Drive".

If the washer is not spinning or agitating, it can have several causes. Most commonly, this is caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The following link explains how you can diagnose the problem yourself and repair:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3965207-whirlpool_top_loader_no_spin_problem


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you may need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers from the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. Most of these parts are commonly sold as part of their in-store inventory.

Read through the information provided. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this is helpful to you.

NOTE: If you refer to the "Brake,Clutch,Gearcase,Motor and Pump" parts section, you can see an entire view of the direct-drive system components. The motor coupling I am referring to is listed as item 13.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.