20 Most Recent Kenmore 24982 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Remove bottom front panel and check for clogged filter or debris in the filter, also check for a kinked drain hose.

It appears your coupling/drive belt has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

POSSSIBLE BAD LID SWITCH OR DRIVE MOTOR TO TRANSMISSION COUPLING IS BROKEN POST MODEL NUMBER PLEASE

Bad motor. Easy to replace. Worth the effort.
To find out how, click HERE
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hello welcome


Here are the most common problems related to over fill

Faulty Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is the device that meters water from the supply lines into your wash tub. On domestic washers, there are two lines, one hot the other cold. These valves are susceptible to mineral build-up and sediment deposits. There are two common failure modes:

Failure Mode One: Valve will not open.
If you can verify that the solenoid on the valve body is receiving the requisite voltage and the valve will not open, then it is faulty. Since the solenoids operate independently, it is likely that one side of the valve will work and the other will not. This can produce strand results such as a very hot wash when warm is selected (due to no cold water). Or the reverse in that the wash water is cold when warm is selected. If mineral or hard water deposits are a problem, you may witness a substantial increase in the time required for the tub to fill. This is caused be a decrease in the flow ware of the valve.

Failure Mode Two: Valve opens but will not close.
This is verified by a valve that allows water to flow into the tub even though no power is being supplied to the solenoid. This one is usually quickly diagnosed when the machine begins to overflow and the power plug for the washer is disconnected from the wall. However, this will not stop the water from flowing into the machine. The water must be shut off at the wall. As with the previous failure mode, the variant of this failure mode is that it may take the valve a while to completely bridge the flow of water after the power has been removed from the solenoid.

How to Diagnose?
There are a couple of ways to diagnose a faulty valve. However, there is a simple test that one can perform that will usually let you know if the water inlet valve is faulty.

Scenario:
When set to cold wash and rinse, the unit will not fill. When set to warm wash and cold rinse the washer will fill with hot water only and will fail to rinse. This is a common scenario where the cold water side of the valve does not appear to be contributing to the fill, but the hot water side does. This symptom could be easily reversed where cold water is being supplied, but never hot water.

So, how can the problem be determined? It is as simple as switching the wire harness plugs on the hot and cold side. In the example above where the cold water is never being supplied, the symptoms would be the opposite when the wiring harnesses were switched. So the machine would produce only produce cold when warm or hot is selected. No water should be present when you select cold. This verifies that the timer, wiring and switches are all in working order. Assuming this tests checks out, you simply need to replace the water inlet valve.

Faulty Water Level (Pressure) Switch
The water level (pressure) switch detects the hight of the water in the wash tub by the pressure it creates. Much like your ears feel greater pressure when you dive into the deep end of the swimming pool, this switch senses the increase in pressure from water added to the tub. The size of the load you select determines how much prssure is required before the switch tells the water inlet valve to close.

If voltage is still being supplied to the water inlet valves and the tub is full, then the water level switch is likely fault

Faulty Water Level Switch Supply Tube
The tube that connects the water level (pressure) switch to the outer wash tub must have pressure integrity for the washer to be able to determine the correct water level. There are four possible problems that can prevent this tube from performing its duties.

1. The tube can become clogged with lint or debris. This can prevent water from entering the tube and therefore not apply pressure to the switch.
2. The tube can become cracked. Much like a straw in a soft drink, if the supply tube has a crack in it, it can not send pressure to the switch.
3. The tube has become kinked. If the tube becomes kinked, it can not send pressure to the switch.
4. The tube has become disconnected from either the tub or the switch. If either of these occurs it can not send pressure to the switch.
   

To prevent leaks, it is wise to replace a water level switch supply tube that has become brittle. Failure of this tube during operation of the washer could result in a sustained water leak.


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Sounds like a pump issue. I would pop the panels open and make sure the wiring is all connected, sometimes the solder lets loose. Or the pump could be going out or already out.

Fabric softener dispensers are notorious for getting all gummed up and clogged. Remove the dispenser cup and soak in some hot water to dissolve all residue. While you have the dispenser removed check under the dispenser cap in the agitator for gummy residue as well. Clean with hot water. There should also be an agitator seal cap under the dispenser. Make sure the cap and rubber o-ring are seated properly. Last of all, if the dispenser has a cone shaped cup inside, make sure it is inserted cone-side UP. The cup is designed to allow fabric softener to roll down the sides of it, NOT hold it. I hope this helps.

It sounds like your washer is not going through it's neutral drain. After agitation, your washer should pause and drain for around 90 seconds to pump out the water before spin. Check this out by starting a wash with a small screw driver holding the lid switch down. This will allow you to observe whether or not it's going through it's neutral drain. If not, it's a transmission problem. The trans is covered under warranty for 5 years. You may also want to check the pump to see if it's gunked up. Catriver..post back.

Lyzz, someone is going to have to check the pump for debris in it. It is not hard to get off, 2 clips and two clamps. You also want to check the drain hose from the pump right at the point where it exits the washer. I have found socks and other items stuck right at that point. You are going to have to remove the cabinet to get at the pump. Yours will have a cover under the console where you will have to disconnect some hoses. I will attach a couple of photo's to guide you...Catriver..post back.

Hi There could be couple of causes to this problem so you need to be more specific, still here are a few things for you to check. Check the inlet valve and the protective screen that?s inside ? it?s probably clogged, although you can clean the screen its better to replace the valve. Check your water pump if it working properly. Remember if you don?t have any(!!) plumbing experience don?t try it yourself and call someone. Good luck

Check out the link for Kenmore Parts suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+series+200+triple+action+agitator+parts ..

If it is only leaking when you use warm water it is likely a leak from the delivery side of the hot water inlet solenoid. The only way to check is to remove the top and look. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+80+series+washer+92281100+leaks ..

Thats a simple one to replace. Unplug unit. Take a putty knife and release clips that secure console to top. They are located on each front corner of console. Raise lid. Unplug harness from switch. Take ground screw out that is part of switch assembly. Release plastic tab that holds switch in place and remove switch. Install and snap into place new switch with lid open. Put ground screw back in place and plug harness back into place. Lower lid and then raise and listen for clicking noise. Put console back in place. That’s it.

If this is the model ('700S' is a series name), the lid is no longer available.https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3fpuvflk1q-000583/kenmore-elite-79629272000-washer-partsSo best fixes would be silicone and liquid metal epoxy as needed.https://www.google.com/search?q=kenmore+top-load+700s+lid+replacementI also found this, if the 'rubber plug' is the pivot on the back edge, you could make one from a dowel and fix with epoxy.https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/59z4rap6tv-0026-795/id-afg72909503..

Question edited for clarity. 'then', a moment in time. 'than', a comparison between one thing and another. It depends on the model, but usually related to the lid lock. Also check the breaker. Why does my washer stop working after filling with water? If the Top Load Washer stops after filling with water, be sure to check the house circuit breaker/fuse as well as the outlet and plug. Washers should be plugged into their own separate, dedicated outlet. ..

Usually it's the lid switch..When you open the lip look straight down usually..When you close the lid it inserts a small plastic piece that goes into the hole telling the washer the lids down..If it broke it will make the washer stop mid cycle..You can stick a wooden (only made of wood) into the hole and sometimes it will start to work..Then you know that's the problem and just get your model number of the washer and replace it..Hope this helps