20 Most Recent Kenmore 24042 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

check the door safety switch,, if it isn't working it won't continue,, check around the door ( lid) you will see the switch, its usually under the lip, once you get to it, you can go to the connector, and unhook it,, and on the side away from the switch, place a jumper wire on the connections,, it should start, if so , replace that switch

It is so common that the washing machine can make terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the mounting is also very important. Finally in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve most issues.

For replacement of bearings check for tips on this visual link:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1401/how-to-replace-the-bearings-on-a-washing-mach.html

Thank you for using fixya.,

The problem is the pressure switch has failed or the hose is plugged up, has a hole in it. These are usually inexpensive and are very easy to replace. Here is a video this will walk you thru testing and replacing a pressure switch. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available.

Thes units have litlle plastic dogs that make the agitator agitate, and when they break it will stop.
Remove the agitator and inside there are 3 to 4 plastic dogs or ears and these are more than likely bad.
Pry the agitator cap off by inserting a screwdriver into the cap's notch

2) Pull the inner cap (if present) off - many Whirlpool machines use this inner cap, with a handle, to gain access to the center bolt

3) Remove the bolt in the center of the agitator (earlier models used a 7/16" hex-head steel bolt)
On older models, grasp the bottom portion of the agitator and pull the entire assembly out of the washer. (Some recent models allow just the top portion's removal to access these 'dogs')

5) Older models - place the agitator on the floor, and, standing carefully on the bottom portion, pull the top half off. Turn it over, and the dogs will be accessible for replacement.

6) Newer model dogs can be replaced once just the ratchet ***'y is removed. There are several versions currently in use, but most can be replaced without removing the bottom agitator half. All '4-dog' versions use the 285770 (or #80040) kit, regardless of the cam ***'y style. (Really old agitators, rarely seen now, used a pair of 2 larger dogs, which are a different part number)

7) On older versions, be careful to align the two tabs when inserting the upper ***'y back onto the agitator bottom half. When these are aligned, they will friction-fit the two halves together, making it easier to reinstall the ***'y. Handle it only by the bottom half to prevent pulling the top half off when reinstalling.

8) Lightly lubricate the agitator cap's rubber gasket using a bit of dishwasher detergent, and push it back into place. (On the Whirlpools with an inner cap, lube that cap's o-ring too - makes it easier to snap into place)

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out thistip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkoutthis tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Hi
I believe the issue is either with the transmission or clutch assembly that is bad and should be replaced. To check what is bad you will have to take the agitator apart then check the clutch assembly if that appears to be fine then the transmission is bad, if you are not comfortable doing this repair then you can get it done by a tech.Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

If this is a Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADER (such as Kenmore, Roper, Estate and certain late model Maytags), the most common cause of the symptoms you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the initial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that may not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are tight. Sometimes these screws will loosen, causing the lid switch make intermittent contact. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

Another cause of washer spin problems can be attributed to a broken motor coupling. The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission). The following link describes how to replace one:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling


A motor coupling usually costs less than $20 and can be found at most appliance parts repair centers. NOTE: The typical symptoms of a broken motor coupling are: the washer will fill normally, but will not agitate or spin. The washer will also exhibit a loud grinding or rattling noise. The washer should still drain, however.


Another cause could be a drive motor failure. When the drive motor fails, the washer will fill normally, but will not agitate, spin or drain. You may hear a slight humming noise as well. A simple resistance check of the motor windings, followed by a spin test to determinbe if the motor spins freely, can determine if the motor is bad. The following link explains how to replace a drive motor (if required):


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575865-replacing_the_drive_motor_on_a_whirlpool


NOTE: Most Whirlpool (Kenmore) appliances have a tachnical data sheet, with wiring diagram, located inside the operator panel. Simply remove the panel back to access it.



Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites on the list, include helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need. The lid switch and associated components are usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" parts listing.

NOTE: Banging or slamming the lid can actually cause more harm than good. These switches are fragile and can break easily in this manner. HELPFUL HINT: Since the washer IS spinning and draining, the drive motor and motor coupling are intact and probably is not the problem. The motor controls the drain pump and utilizes the motor coupling to engage the transmission (spin functions).

The average price of a replacement lid switch is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. The lid strike (if equipped) usually costs less than $5. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.


If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.


NOTE: If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

what are the 3 numerical digits before the period as in ( XXX.XXXXXXXX) the first 3 numbers tell you who produced it for kenmore,then i can tell you how its dis-assembled to replaced the lid switch

Here is Whirlpool's service info on your machine:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It is almost certainly the motor coupling:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Coupling/1195967

Check out the how-to video on the bottom of the RepairClinic page.

Cheap to buy, not impossible to fix.

Good luck.

The washer comes apart very easily. Problem is how the control panel is released. Either there is two screws in the front or rear of the control panel once these are removed the panel pulls forward and leans back. On some models there is two clips under the front edges of the panel which have to be depressed with a putty knife. On some models the end caps on the control panel pry off exposing the screws. After leaning back the control panel you must un-plug the lid switch, remove two brass coloured clips holding the case to the rear panel by prying with a screw driver, lean the case forward and remove the case.

the main drive belt is loose, or the motors coil is bunring out try adjusting the belt tight

best of luck please rank this advice

Lid Switch is the problem. Kenmore Appliance Parts can order that for you right now 574-307-5006 and can tell you how to bypass it intill part comes in.

I will assume its not leaking or you would see it right?? Check the drain hose from the washer where it goes into the wall drain, make sure the hose from the washer is only about 6 inches down into the wall drain. If it was down any farther I will create a SIPHON which will draw out the water as fast as it goes in.. Hope this Helps Good Luck

You may have 2 defective parts.
First,make sure the hot and cold water hoses are connected correctly and both turned on.
If the water fill problem is the same,the water temp switch is bad.
The not filling after the wash cycle could be a bad lid switch.
Set the machine for SPIN and turn it on.
If it does not spin,replace the lid switch.

This is NOT for older models equipped with a wig-wag transmission that are BELT driven. Read the instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty that can be accomplished easily if you follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, there is a Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. NOTE: Inspect the motor coupling. If it shows signs of wear, this would be a good time to replace it.

10. Install the new Drive Motor. Make sure all the black rubber pads are on the motor (there are four of them). These help to reduce noise and vibration. Also, make sure the white cardboard piece that covers the bottom of the motor remains in place. This is a splash guard to prevent water from splashing into the motor in the event of a leak or overflow. Now, line up the motor coupling correctly and place the lower motor retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

11. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

12. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

13. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

14. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

15. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

16. Reinstall console.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It is normal to have some water in the wash tub when the spin cycle starts. It will gradually drain down as the tub begins to spin faster. However, if you STILL have an abnormal amount of water in the tub as it begins the high speed final spin, you may have a slow drain problem with your plumbing, or something restricting the water in your drain pump. If you've never had drain problems before, I would suspect you might need to check your pump. I'm posting the following link that explains how to replace the pump, because it explains how to access and remove it:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397092-replacing_water_pump

These pumps are NOT serviceable and are sealed. Do not attempt to disassemble it. You can, however look inside the pump to see if anything is lodged in it. Underwire bra hoops, socks and underwear are common items that are found. Another thing to inpsect is the back of the pump where it mounts to the Drive Motor shaft. The hole in the pump should have two flat sides. Sometimes, this hole rounds out and the pump begins to free spin on the motor shaft. Let me know if you require additional assistance. I hope this information helps you.

NOTE: If you require a replacement pump, they can be ordered ar searspartdirect.com or replairclinic.com. Make sure you have your COMPLETE model number handy.