Top 10 Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

I had the problem of my HE3 washer would not drain all the way. Well I am pretty good at fixing stuff so I took apart the botton panel and there was the drain. I opened up the drain plug with a small bucket (gallon size) underneath and it started to drain and drain. Well about 3 gallons and five big beach towels on the floor i thought I fixed it. I found a service award badge and a couple of small socks. So I put everything back together and started to run a cycle. After the cycle finished my daughter decided to open the door and realized it was full again. After we got out the shop vac and sveral more beach towels. I go back to the drain plug and started to noticed the the drain area is clear. So I thought it was a fluke. Unpluged the washer for a few minutes and started another cycle. Once I realized the washer did not drain again, I was starting to get mad. I took the bottom panel off again and looked under the drum and realized I might new a new pump. Well I called my dad to run the issuse by him to see what he thought. About that time my son opened the washer no realizing I was working on it. I am really mad now. My dad stops by and helps clean up the water. He looks at the drum and realizes the rubber drain piece that comes off the drum twists when it is on the drain mode. So I pull the spring clamp off and put a stainless steel hose clamp (.89 cents) and lined up the black rubber drain piece the way it is suppose to on. It has been working great every since. Sometimes you need about 6 gallons of water to realize that it is always the simplest thing that stump you.

Shannabug is right on the money. I had the same problem a few days ago. F09 came up - I hit pause twice - since there was water still in the drum I did a spin and drain.

NOW UNPLUG THE WASHER!

Right below the kickboard there are three torqux screws - now's a good time to get a Torqux folding key set. Once removed - give the side of the kick board a rap on the side - sometimes you may have to use an object to hit it with - it'll fall right off.

On the bottom, dead center is a white cylinder facing you with a screw cap. This is the filter/catch basket - to the right of that is your pump.

Before you screw off the cap, make sure you have lots of paper towels - I had a shop-vac - as I loosened the cap I had the vacuum **** up the water that was coming out - I removed the filter and there was two pencils in there - apparently my son never emptied his pocket. I put the shop vac into the filter chamber and started sucking up anything else that may have been there.

When you put the cap back on, ensure the little notch on top of the cap is facing up, and screw it back on securely. Put the kick board back on - and you're ready to go.

If you continue to have a problem you can clean out the drain tube with a shop-vac - and/or purchase a new pump - but now you see where it is, and how easy it is to change it - you can now save yourself a few hundred dollars by changing it yourself!

IMPORTANT - BEFORE YOU DO THIS UNPLUG THE SYSTEM. This will make sure no injuries, and while you are doing the filter, the computer is getting to reboot itself.

I have a Kenmore HE3t (mfg by Whirlpool) that is 2 years old and started getting the F/DL error message. Very disappointing considering this thing cost $1000 and had one warranty repair during the first year. After reading a few reviews I attempted to fix myself and was done in 15 minutes saving at least $70 service fee and $125-250 in parts and labor. This fix was trivial. Read through and then proceed with confidence. Most importantly, UNPLUG the unit before proceeding. You absolutely don’t want to get hurt or fry the electronics inside. Also, there is no need to don't pound on the door or the back corner to fix as others have suggested...the solution is so much simpler although not as fun : )

Optional - Open the bottom front cover by removing 3 Torx screws. On bottom right side sealed in plastic is the tech's manual explaining all the codes. F/DL is a Door Lock Failure. These codes should be in the user’s manual but isn’t, necessitating a service call just to tell you what the error code means. Thank goodness for the internet and these postings.

The solution my grandmother could perform. Double check that you UNPLUGGED the unit. Open the top by removing 3 torx screws on back and lift off the top. Look in the back middle where all the wires connect to a CCU (central control unit). Find the large blue wires along the right side of the CCU, then go immediately to the left to the first set of small black wires in a bundle of 3. Just above the connector it will read DL and some # (I can’t remember the #). Jiggling the connector I realized it was simply loose and not making good contact. I removed the connector and upon inspection found the connections very clean. If yours are dirty or corroded, now would be the time to clean them. Take a flashlight and look closely where the connector was connected to the CCU and you will see three metallic plates. The connector has 3 sets of metallic “alligator jaws” that grip the CCU plates when installed. Note the opening between each set of “jaws”. Assuming these were only loose, I took a sharp tweezers, got under each “jaw” and lightly pushed each “jaw” toward the middle, narrowing the gap between each set of “jaws”. You will do this 6 times total. Notice the gap has narrowed. When you reinstall the clip, be gentle and jiggle slightly to be sure the part gets seated correctly and you don’t bend of the metal parts on the connector. With a secure connection, the covers reinstalled, and the washer plugged back in, the door lock mechanism engaged and the machine fired right up.

removethe lower acess panel 3 screws across the bottom , run the cycle and watch to see where exctly the leak is coming from it should be quite apparent

The fault code F02 has about three suggested solutions with the last one being to change the pump. The diagnostic tree is slightly flawed. Before anyone changes the pump there is one more very common problem. The pressure sensor which tells the drain pump when to stop running and the water valves when to shut off has a manifold located on the lowest point in the back of the drum housing (back has to be removed to access). The manifold plugs up with undisolved detergent and lint and prevents the pressure sensor from receiving the proper signal. The pump will continue to run until it times out (at 15 minutes) and results in an F02 code.

POSSIBLE COMMUNICATION PROBLEM BETWEEN MAIN AND MOTOR CONTROLLER

any recall issue will be available on the website for the machine i.e. www.kenmore.com or on the consumer reports website. From this listing I cannot see a recall for this particular machine

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 – is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.

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This due to the drain pump either being clogged or having a broken pump rotor. You can access the pump to check this by removing the bottom front panel by removing the 3 screws under the panel. You will need some towels bacause you will have A LOT of water come rushing out when you unscrew the drain pump cleanout. If this cleanout is clogged, remove the obstruction and test the washer, if there is no clogg you will need a new drain pump, this part can be ordered at, http://www.reliableparts.com/ by using your model number to lacate the pump. It is very easy to replace, just be sure to disconnect the power to the washer first =)

Please rate mt solution if it was helpful to you.

Thanks, Repairman45

8 cuft3.