20 Most Recent Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Suspect there is heavy load in the spin cycle which makes it trip off. You need to check the free movement of the drum and also the motor.

I have a Kenmore HE3t (mfg by Whirlpool) that is 2 years old and started getting the F/DL error message. Very disappointing considering this thing cost $1000 and had one warranty repair during the first year. After reading a few reviews I attempted to fix myself and was done in 15 minutes saving at least $70 service fee and $125-250 in parts and labor. This fix was trivial. Read through and then proceed with confidence. Most importantly, UNPLUG the unit before proceeding. You absolutely don’t want to get hurt or fry the electronics inside. Also, there is no need to don't pound on the door or the back corner to fix as others have suggested...the solution is so much simpler although not as fun : )

Optional - Open the bottom front cover by removing 3 Torx screws. On bottom right side sealed in plastic is the tech's manual explaining all the codes. F/DL is a Door Lock Failure. These codes should be in the user’s manual but isn’t, necessitating a service call just to tell you what the error code means. Thank goodness for the internet and these postings.

The solution my grandmother could perform. Double check that you UNPLUGGED the unit. Open the top by removing 3 torx screws on back and lift off the top. Look in the back middle where all the wires connect to a CCU (central control unit). Find the large blue wires along the right side of the CCU, then go immediately to the left to the first set of small black wires in a bundle of 3. Just above the connector it will read DL and some # (I can’t remember the #). Jiggling the connector I realized it was simply loose and not making good contact. I removed the connector and upon inspection found the connections very clean. If yours are dirty or corroded, now would be the time to clean them. Take a flashlight and look closely where the connector was connected to the CCU and you will see three metallic plates. The connector has 3 sets of metallic “alligator jaws” that grip the CCU plates when installed. Note the opening between each set of “jaws”. Assuming these were only loose, I took a sharp tweezers, got under each “jaw” and lightly pushed each “jaw” toward the middle, narrowing the gap between each set of “jaws”. You will do this 6 times total. Notice the gap has narrowed. When you reinstall the clip, be gentle and jiggle slightly to be sure the part gets seated correctly and you don’t bend of the metal parts on the connector. With a secure connection, the covers reinstalled, and the washer plugged back in, the door lock mechanism engaged and the machine fired right up.

"F02" is a Long Drain error. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be generated as a secondary error. This is an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:

1. Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
2. Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
3. Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.

To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump


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The Sears repair man told me that I was filling the bleach and fabric softener too high and when you close the tray is splashes over and runs into the drum. Not all of it runs out though just the portion that goes over the Fill Line.

PF means Power Failure!
Unplug both units for 10 minutes, then plug them back in and try operating them. You may need an electrician to investigate why you are losing power to both units

You have to shut your wall inlet pipe after your wash is over. If the leak persists you only have to change the inlet valve, which you can do yourself, see internet for spares quoting your washer number, model. It is good to keep the valve closed when the machine has finished it's wash.For unlocking hold down "end of cycle" button at right side of panel for 3 - 5 seconds. The door remains locked when there is water in the machine, it does not want to wet your floor. Today's machines are smart. Helped?

What is the complete model number of your unit?

The "F" variables (F4-F16) are for electrical problems. You should select Pause/Cancel twice then select Drain/Spin if there is excessive water in the washer. Re-select cycle and press start. According to the manual, if the problem remains, call for service.

What is the model number of your unit?

This due to the drain pump either being clogged or having a broken pump rotor. You can access the pump to check this by removing the bottom front panel by removing the 3 screws under the panel. You will need some towels bacause you will have A LOT of water come rushing out when you unscrew the drain pump cleanout. If this cleanout is clogged, remove the obstruction and test the washer, if there is no clogg you will need a new drain pump, this part can be ordered at, http://www.reliableparts.com/ by using your model number to lacate the pump. It is very easy to replace, just be sure to disconnect the power to the washer first =)

Please rate mt solution if it was helpful to you.

Thanks, Repairman45

Sounds like the water control valve is stuck open http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Water-Inlet-Valve/8181694/906483?modelNumber=110.42924200

see this causes and fix it. God bless youIf the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first. If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced. If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer. If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Shannabug is right on the money. I had the same problem a few days ago. F09 came up - I hit pause twice - since there was water still in the drum I did a spin and drain.

NOW UNPLUG THE WASHER!

Right below the kickboard there are three torqux screws - now's a good time to get a Torqux folding key set. Once removed - give the side of the kick board a rap on the side - sometimes you may have to use an object to hit it with - it'll fall right off.

On the bottom, dead center is a white cylinder facing you with a screw cap. This is the filter/catch basket - to the right of that is your pump.

Before you screw off the cap, make sure you have lots of paper towels - I had a shop-vac - as I loosened the cap I had the vacuum **** up the water that was coming out - I removed the filter and there was two pencils in there - apparently my son never emptied his pocket. I put the shop vac into the filter chamber and started sucking up anything else that may have been there.

When you put the cap back on, ensure the little notch on top of the cap is facing up, and screw it back on securely. Put the kick board back on - and you're ready to go.

If you continue to have a problem you can clean out the drain tube with a shop-vac - and/or purchase a new pump - but now you see where it is, and how easy it is to change it - you can now save yourself a few hundred dollars by changing it yourself!

IMPORTANT - BEFORE YOU DO THIS UNPLUG THE SYSTEM. This will make sure no injuries, and while you are doing the filter, the computer is getting to reboot itself.