20 Most Recent Frigidaire GLET1031FS Top Load Stacked Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

check if the belt too loose from the pulley otherwise need to make tenssion in the belt

Good Morning Jake, thank you for allowing me to assist you! The water valve on this particular unit has a constant supply of line voltage whenever the lid is closed. The neutral is supplied through the timer or temperature select switch. If water is flowing through the valve constantly, the valve could be stuck open or there could be a short to ground on neutral side. Regrettably, this is not a simple DIY job. I would strongly recommend connecting with a professional to narrow down the precise issue before investing in parts that may or may not be the root cause. You can often locate a qualified service provider through the manufacturer website.

Hi firew34 - If the dryer will not allow you to operate, try resetting the unit by either unplugging it or flipping the household breaker to the off position. Wait approximately two minutes, turn on the dryer and select a normal cycle. If these troubleshooting steps prove ineffective, you may wish to contact a professional as the unit may possibly have a defective cord, wiring, control board or door switch.

See if these TIPS will help your exact unit.

WAKE THE WASHER BY PRESSING ANY BUTTON.

WAIT 5 SECONDS.

PRESS AND HOLD THE START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY.

ALL LED'S WILL GO BLANK AND AFTER A FEW SECONDS THE CONTROL WILL SIGNAL THE STORED CODE USING AUDIBLE BEEPS AND BLINKING LED'S. THE CONTROL WILL REPEATEDLY SIGNAL THE CODE, AS LONG AS THE START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS ARE PRESSED. A TWO-SECOND PAUSE BETWEEN REPEATS AFFORDS YOU THE ABILITY TO MAKE ACCURATE COUNTS TO IDENTIFY THE CORRECT ERROR CODES.

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING: ON A SMALL NUMBER OF WASHERS WITH SERIAL

NUMBER PREFIX XC4, IF THE PREVIOUS PROCEDURE DOES NOT PREFORM AS

SPECIFIED, FOLLOW THE OPTION BELOW:

* FOLLOW ALL PREVIOUS STEPS BUT INSTEAD OF PRESSING START AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS, PRESS AND HOLD OPTIONS AND PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTONS."

*THE CONTROL WILL PAUSE FOR 2 SECONDS, THEN REPEAT THE CODE AS LONG AS THE TWO BUTTONS ARE PRESSED AND HELD."

NOTE: A LETTER APPEARING IN THE CODE STANDS FOR A NUMBER HIGHER THAN NINE: A=10 B=11 C=12 D=13 E=14 F=15 "

"EXAMPLE CODE F1: THE FIRST DIGIT WOULD BE 15 AND THE SECOND WOULD BE 1. IF THIS CODE WOULD APPEAR ON A WASHER IN THE GOOD MODEL LINE, THE FIVE INDICATOR LIGHTS WOULD BLINK FIFTEEN TIMES AND THE START INDICATOR LIGHT WOULD

you should be able to just scoot out the unit and get access so you can see clearly...just look around for a place where that wire can go....there cannot be too many options....however that not being an option for whatever reason....get your digital camera, take a few pix, then go to your local sears outlet for parts and see if they can help you sort it out

Hello, My name is Mike, welcome to fixya.I am thinking you probably broke the door switch and the machine thinks the door is open. little piece on top of the lock catch. need to change the door switch. The switch is know as a safety switch. The idea between this is that it is a safety feature for mostly kids, so that when the washer is on that high speed spin cycle, that a child does not open up lid and stick there arm or hand in and have it injured. Most washer are designed so that the washer will only spin when the washing machine lid is down. Also sometimes it will not allow it to even start,as it thinks door is not closed. Sometimes the lid might have got a little bent or warped. So first try with lid down pushing on lid. If still wont operate most likely it is that switch that that peg goes into, if you take a knife or flat head screw driver, and push into that hole with the knife or flat head screw driver and do not here a click when pushing it and releasing it, then you need to replace that switch, it is pretty cheep, normally under 20 bucks and a appliance store and when picking up the part they can tell you exactly how to replace it yourself, it is pretty easy and only takes a few minutes. Sometimes sense you should unplug it prior to testing switch and fiddling with it,, after you plug it back in, you might get lucky and have it work after plugging it back in. But I believe most likely it will be the switch that needs replacing. I hope this helps, MIKE

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but this forum does not supply manuals direct; it's just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home, with experience of addressing problems and helping for free on the web ;-0)

I understand that manufacturers often supply technical diagrams to service engineers only.
I can only suggest you go directly to the manufacturer's web site and try
Good luck,
John C.

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Please check these schematics for wiring and timer, click on the pictures to Zoom in---
Wiring info--



Also check the schematic for your timer--



Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

your input power terminals sometimes burn off if its completely dead,or if it runs but no heat, could be an open dryer element,thermal fusible link,hi-limit switch,open neutral at the heating element,shorted element to case ground(but normally this will trip the breaker),defective timer/control board

Good Morning Anonymous, this is Z. I am happy to assist you! I understand that your door indicates it is open and your dryer will not operate. Let's attempt resetting your dryer by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. It is good to wait approximately ten minutes and turn on your dryer. Select a normal cycle and verify if your dryer will start. If your dryer will not operate then it possibly have a faulty door lock assembly or a communication problem with the control board. At this point, it would be advisable to contact an experienced appliance repair tech to assist further.

Sure sounds like your timer has bit the dust. I'm not sure if the timer is still available. You have a great washer there. Good luck.

The machine does not exist as you have written it. There are two likely reasons The door switch has failed and hasn't passed the self test procedure. or the control board / timer has failed. Try power cycling it. Remove the mains plug for an hour. It is has an On Off button press it for a minute. For a knob, full it and leave two minutes. Plug back in and try again. https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+FWAC+19B5MSGNW ..

crowbar?

Maybe try this...... https://yellowfevereats.com/frigidaire-affinity-washer-reset/

Hi, Please power cycle your dryer and attempt to run it again. If this fails, please ensure that your clothes are evenly distributed so that they weight of the clothes doesn't cause the dryer to be shutdown. Just to double check, please ensure that you've cleaned the lint track of your dryer. Lastly, you can use an power outlet extender to help switch the power outlet that you're using to run your dryer as there might be something wrong with your current one. Thank you.

There could be several issues that could cause your Frigidaire dryer to stop running after just a few seconds. Here are a few potential problems to consider:

1. Thermal fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that shuts off the dryer if it overheats. If the fuse has blown, the dryer will not run.
2. Clogged dryer vent: If the dryer vent is clogged, it can cause the dryer to overheat, which could trip the thermal fuse.
3. Faulty cycling thermostat: The cycling thermostat regulates the dryer's temperature. If it's faulty, the dryer may not run for more than a few seconds.
4. Faulty start switch: If the start switch is faulty, it could prevent the dryer from running.
5. Faulty door switch: The door switch prevents the dryer from running when the door is open. If the switch is faulty, the dryer may not run.

To fix the problem, you'll need to diagnose which of these issues is causing the problem and then replace the faulty part. I recommend having a mechanic diagnose and fix the problem for you.

The E11 error code indicates a problem with the gas sensor DE32-60011A and or the wire harness DE39-40678D. Unfortunately the manufacturer has discontinued the sensor. You may want to try contacting local parts dealers, one of them might still have it in stock. Enter your part number in a search engine, a smaller company might have it or try eBay, Amazon or similar sites . Search by using the manufacturers part number. Try a used appliance store, sometimes they have the same model or a usable part for your machine.