20 Most Recent GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The timer is out of sequence and will need to be replaced. Here is the new timer you need.Here is a video to walk you thru the replacement process.

The next time this condition occuers, take the front panel off the machine and look under the top cover of the motor at the right front side. There is a LED light on the motor inverter board there. If it is flashing twice, then a pause, then repeating this again and again you most likely have a loose hub nut on your wash basket. (the motor reads this as belt slippage)
1. Order and install a new hub washer (WH2X1199) and a new split ring (WH2X1195) along with a new hub nut (WH2X1193). If the hub part of the basket is worn, replace that as well (plastic tub models = WH45X10027, SS tub = hub / basket WH45X10060.
2. Tighten hub nut, torque to 110 ft-lbs.
3. Clear flash code error. (your method to clear code is a bit more extreme than required, but will work)

You will need to replace the water inlet valve. Here is a link to the part.

its a green wire on the back of the machine should be connected

un plug the machine , wait 30 sec. plug back in , open and close the lid completly 5 times with in 30 sec. if the problem is just needing to be reset this will do it if not you need to replace the motor

If your unit keeps filling with the power off, it is the water fill solenoid(s). If the machine overflows it is the float switch. Check out partselect.com and put in your model number. It will show a picture of the part and the price.

If you need more help, post another comment.

Thanks,

Tim

Does it fill and not agitate? If so, you will need to replace the lid switch.

please see the next step and use the common sense: God bless youLid Switch This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch. Timer To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem. Motor To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere. Belt If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke. Motor Coupler This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler. Transmission The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub

you have to open it up and look at insides - should be obvious.