20 Most Recent GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You need to replace the "lid switch". Here is a link to the part you need. Here is a link to a video that may help you.

Sounds like excessive current draw.

On my top-load GE HydroWave washer the agitator just snaps in with a bunch of tooth-like clips in the center of the inside of the agitator. To remove it, grab it on the very bottom of the agitator by hooking your fingers underneath the bottom flange (using two hands evenly spaced) and just lift hard to yank it out. The clips will unsnap and then it just lifts out. Really bad design IMHO but that's how it comes out. I thought I was going to break something doing this but it came right out.

Check the small hose that goes up to the water level control. Check and blow out any water in it. Replace if it is loose or any broken fittings are in the line. IT works by building up pressure in the line as the water rises and activates a switch that is set by the water level you select. IF it doesn't sense the pressure it will allow the water to keep running. Unless it switches off when full there will be no further progress in the cycle.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless youLid Switch This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the LID switch Timer To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the timer if it does the timer is not the problem. Motor To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere. Belt If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke. Motor Coupler This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of motor coupler Transmission The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

if it doesn't agitate but everything else runs the most likely cause is the coupling under the tub is worn out and needs to be replaced. They are usually plastic and require the entire tub to be removed.

Unidentified buzzing noise in top loader machines is often due to a jammed or seized drain pump, especially if the pump has its own motor - sometimes just opening the front of the pump (usually under a panel at the base of the front, possibly behind a small - 3-4 inch - panel to one side or other) will clear it. behind the pump cover will be a sealed plug or similar, usually needs a half turn to undo. small pieces of wood or plastic sometimes are the cause, and may be "floating" on the drum side of the drain pump so may not be visible immediately. Make sure the machine is unplugged and check with your fingers to see if the pump blades rotate freely - they will have some resistance, but should not feel like you are pressing against something solid. If you still have the manual for the machine, somewhere you would expect to find detailed instructions for a user to clear the pump - it is not usually a difficult or complicated job however some machines have a very different drain system. You may have a certain amount of water comes out over the floor - this is normal. On an optimistic note, many of these machines are still functioning after more than five years with no problems, so it is likely to be minor. If you suspect the electronic control to be the reason for the problem, it may just be that it will not continue a cycle without properly draining, even if the drum appears to be draining adequately - check the drain pump. The pulley attached with string is slightly unusual - perhaps this is as a result of an old bodged repair and needs to be resecured - without more detail or a photo this is hard to say. Best solution for that would be if you could find a similar machine, possibly in a second-hand shop and ask to look at the base to see if there is anything obviously different with your machine.

Dangercart82,

I would recommend starting off by trying a different cycle. Change the dial to the spin cylce, or a different type (perm press, normal, knits) and see if it has the same problem.

-Davedwin

Your washer has a 2 speed clutchless motor. If it spins with no load I would first look at the belt. You can remove the front of your washer by inserting a putty knife about 4" on the right and left top of the front panel and push in. This should release the front panel so you can see what is going on. If the belt is worn replace.