GE WSM2700W Unitized Spacemaker Washer and Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The motor is overheating, so the internal thermal protector cuts out. Did you check the start-run capacitor for open circuit? Or it may be breaking down at full voltage. If in doubt, they are fairly cheap to replace. I suggest you try that.

most washers have a back panel to remove or you have to lay them down check and see then let me know

My bet, the drive belt is off or broken. the Hum is probably the drive motor running.

Check the drain hose for obstructions. Is it being pinched where it goes over the top of the drain pipe behind the washer? The pump may be going bad...

Has the breaker tripped? it the doors shut? is there any lights, need to know everything you are seeing and hearing to help.

Is that a temperature senor in the GE spacemaker Laundry dryer? My dryer stops spinning when it gets too hot. After it cools down, it will spin and dry again.

No it is not normal. What is the model number listed on the machine?

Remove the front panel and check to see if the belt is slipping.

Here is a link to all the parts for your unit.

bad pully assembly or belt tension pully

Nothing on a stackable is easy to replace and no tricks so just take your time and you'll get it on.

All standard dryer motors run on 120V. Its the heater that uses 240. Its possible to wire a dryer for 120V operation and it will appear to run ok but it won't heat efficiently and it will take several cycles to get the clothes dry. Sounds like you have a mechanical problem with the motor.

Hi scottsapplia,

I will be shooting in the dark here, as I have NEVER worked on your model of machine, but I do know certain Top Loading washing Machines first need to brake the inner drum, clutch the agitator, then spin with the inner drum afterwards. maybe your clutch and/or brakes are worn.

Here is a simple test. Put it on a wash, and then lift the lid about 6 - 8 minutes mid cycle. The drum should stop within 2 - 3 seconds, any more and it could mean worn brakes.

Just a thought, you DO NOT have to accept this question, unless ofcourse it helped you :-)

it's the lid switch or the water fill level switch not completing the circuit to the timer to engauge it

It's one of two things, a weak spring, buy a new spring and place it on tyhe grooves, if the groove piece is missing then drill a small hole in the base of the washer adn insert the spring bottom there and insert the top part in the bracket, be careful as the base edges are sharp and will cut you if you slide your arm across it...or the piece that holds the tub on the transmission shaft is worn causing it to wobble from the groove in it.

Sorry but NO you cannot seperate the unit.

IT IS GOOD THAT YOU STARTED WITH THE HOUSE ELECTRICAL. I WOULD NOW CHECK THE POWER AT THE RECEPTACLE AND THEN TAKE THE COVER OFF THE BACK OF THE MACHINE WHERE THE CORD CONNECTS TO SEE IF MAYBE A WIRE IS BURNT OFF. I HAVE SEEN THIS TOO MANY TIMES TO PASS CHECKING THIS.

GE HAS A REARBEARING THAT GOES OUT OVER TIME .. NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR FROM USE COULD ALSO BE YOUR HEATING PROBLEM IF THIS IS ELECTRICAL DRYER TUB COULD BE GROUNDING ELEMENT

USUALYY FRONT DRUM GLIDES AND REAR BEARING ASSYMBLEY PARTS ARE MADE OF TEFLON AND THEY WEAR OUT

Sure, if it doesn't fill, it won't activate the pressure switch which in turn activates the motor to begin washing.