GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Had this happen, was advised that it is most likely the clock board, and that there are NO internal parts available for the XL-44. Turned off the power at the breaker box, pulled the two upper back panels off (the bottom one must be removed first, as the top one has a difficult-to-access sheet metal screw on the bottom inside at either end), then just pulled the common neutral lead (white wire that daisy-chains along the various electrical bits) from the E2 terminal on the bottom left side of the clock board. Applied some heat shrink tubing to the now-disconnected neutral lead to keep it from shorting, and buttoned up everything. The clock is dead, but everything else works just fine and there's no annoying buzzing sound any more.

Hi there,

Well first of all you determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by-

1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.
If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.
 
This error code means Function pad button stuck or Bad clock: Unstick button or Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).
Post comments for more help or information........

Good Luck!!

1. Do both coils get red hot? Try with bake @ 400F, then with broil to be sure. I recently had a bad lower bake coil, but the oven got hot slowly since the broil top coil comes on periodically to even up the heat in the oven. Replacing the lower coil was easy, about a 15-min job, but I had to pre-tap the screw holes on the coil terminals since my oven had extremely short wires.

2. If the coils are ok, the problem may be with the thermocouple or control board.

Hello Cliff Hendershot, One USA manual ... said turn off power for 10 minutes (sounds reasonable after looking up cost of control board)... USA websites are not responding to your number. Closest I could get was to a $78 (us dollar) control panel >> ((IMPORTANT PART ... has a video that shows repair)) http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-oven-control-t09-wb27t11312-ap5177950.html ~~ I could NOT get a good READ on your JBP24... page 8 So I attached a JBP19 (below)... Page 12. The most COMMON reason to FAIL after a cleaning cycle is your OVEN CONTROL is "off normal" (You still do not have your MANUAL MODE restored). Normal = "AUTOMATIC" LIGHT Off (NOT LIT) Check your "oven controls" else Oven elements do break during routine use... Check both roast & bake elements for continuity. GE JBP19 Owner Manual Usingthe Oven Carnac the Magnificent

For a DIY fix unplug the stove check loose connections on wires.

A make or model....?

Hi, Sounds like the self cleaning latch might be in the locked position. The latch may have gone bad. I've seen this hapen on lots of GE models. You didn't post the full model number but it looks like RepairClinic may be out of stock. Try Appliance Parts Pros. Be sure to search with the full model number. It should be located on the front leg just open the bottom drawer. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-latch-service-kit-wb14k10009-ap5669079.html Good Luck, John

Hello. Notice in pic 2 of the exploded diagram of the door, part 359 which is the bottom door trim, part# WB07K0379. I believe this holds the glass in the door if I'm thinking of the right model oven. The glass door steel cover (designation 314) is WB57K10049. I'm not sure if your glass panel was glued to the steel cover--that's why I gave the part number for it--just in case it can't be repaired. If you need more info or part numbers, leave a comment and I'll be glad to help you further!

bake button can be fixed by an expert professional

repairclinic.com is what I use all the time for help.

I'd suggest testing to see if the burners are getting lit. If not, it might mean the ignitor has failed. To check the burner, select Bake to turn on the oven and then open the oven door. After a few seconds you should see an orange glow through the bottom of the oven and hear the hissing of the gas. If you don't, then the burners probably didn't light and I would suspect the ignitor. If it is the ignitor, this posting shows how I fixed my oven with the same problem: http://www.fixya.com/support/t130970-ge_xl44_gas_oven

The top of the range should just pop open to reveal either 1 or 2 pilots for the top burners

There should be a round part in series with the gas connection for regulating the gas pressure. You will have to get another regulator. It might be possible to use the same regulator is you could recalibrate your old part with a test gauge but most of the time the regulator is swapped into place.

This happens every time I clean my oven. It overheats, shows the f2 light and BEEPS loudly. The only way to stop it is to turn the oven off at the breaker box, wait until it cools (usually 2-3 hours), flip the breaker back on and start the process all over again until the unit is clean. If it's not to dirty, sometimes it's easier to juat use Easy Off.
hope it helped

Modern ovens, especially Profile top-of-the-GE-line don;'t usually have pilot lights. Light with electric element when thermostat is good.

Does the oven actually heat up with the temperature more than 100 or does it just stay at 100? Alternatively, when you open the oven can you see the orange glow of the flame through the vents in the bottom of the oven and hear the gas hissing?

Any one of the knobs when pushed in will activate the igniters, if continually clicking it,s probably one of the knobs is not releasing. Check each one remove them (they just pull off) make sure they all are clean and nothing stuck under them. regards Ray

When my oven had this problem it turned out that the ignitors for both the oven and broiler had gone bad - yep, both of them. You can tell when an ignitor is bad if it doesn't glow as the oven is started. I posted some pictures here (I think my answer is #10): Check out this solution to the GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen... Of course the design of your oven might be different but I suspect the repair would be very similar. Regardless, check to see if the ignitor is glowing.

Motor is going out . Replace motor.

First you need to check the value body (around the value stem) for leaks.. you can use soapy water, your nose for smell...if you suspect a gas leak... turn the gas off to the appliance (located behind the stove) and call your gas supplier or a service tech... You can use a thin pair of needle nose plyers to hold the stem.. or an easier way is to cut a playing card in half, poke a hole in the middle of it so it will slide over the stem... cut a line for the edge of the card to the hole so you'll be able to pull the card out from under the installed knob...