Top 20 GE GSS25JFM Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Maybe door is out of alignment enough that' it's not pressing door switch button.

The door seals are letting air in or the seal at the ice dispenser has gone bad and is letting outside(hot) air in and it is the cause of the moisture. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

It needs tone recharged

What is problem actually??? Problem could be several things. 1. Could be cooling coil over loaded with ice. 2. Could be electric defrost heater is burned out. This has happened to me two times over the life of my almost 50 year old Norge. 3. Could be the timer has gone bad. By the way all the above can be fixed by a good technician.

Hello there,
First of all, the defrost unit is faulty and need to be checked. There is a problem with your defrost thermostat. It need to be tested and replaced.
You need to check if the fan at the back of the unit is working, if not the compressor will just keep working and generating heat all over the body of the refrigerator. Also check if the condenser coils is clogged and need cleaning.
After carrying out this, your refrigerator will be in good condition once again.
Hope this helped. All the best. Elect_Comp

You need to replace the "ice door" assembly. Here is a link to the part you need. Here is the service manual for your unit.

Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Their are 2 parts you need to replace. The glass heater and the terminator.

Video:

GE LATE MODEL SxS MANUAL

More here

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The water inet to the ice maker could possibly be frozen

We had to add the heater a little over a year ago for a GE side-by-side. At that time the part number was WR49X10173. GE did reimburse us for the part since the repair is basically due to a design flaw. The water line is not properly insulated, therefore it freezes up. They may even send you the part for free if you go to GE first. We had the repairman out first and then went to them after hearing what the problem was, they would not pay the labor or service fee, only the part fee.

Bulb is a 40 watt appliance bulb, it can be found at any hardware store or walmart. Yes this problem could also be caused by the door switch not operating correctly.

the ice disp stopped working now the unit will try to start then stop over and over, went to main board on back of frig. took off jumper one connector it stopped but not sure what jumper one controls

If the device is making too much ice, there may be a problem with the shutoff arm and shutoff switch. Before you go ahead and start your troubleshooting, unplug the refrigerator. This is very important, otherwise you may get electrocuted. I assume that you have the basic knowledge of the working of electromechanical devices and know how to test them.

Test both the components. To do that you will have to remove the face plate of the device and test the components using the test probes underneath. In case, both are damaged, you will have to replace either or both. There may also be a problem with the thermostat that might be causing this. Test and replace the thermostat if you find it to be faulty.

Take care.

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Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

heatman101

To close the two doors on their own you must have the front higher than the rear of the fridge as you face it.The doors should be higher then the back of the fridge.

Hello there:
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running. First, answer these questions: Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.” Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it. Next, see if the compressor motor is running The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these: The compressor The Thermostat The overload, relay, or capacitor The defrost timer The condenser fan motor

Most likely , the problem is a bad defrost heater , pt # WR51X10055 , but I would still suggest going thru the motions to make sure . The heater runs about $45.00 .
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .