20 Most Recent GE GSS25JFM Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi, This model has a mother board instead of a defrost timer. If you are having a defrost issue, the first part you want to test is the defrost heaters. If you need instruction on testing the defrost cycle, please let me know so I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

Hello there,
First of all, the defrost unit is faulty and need to be checked. There is a problem with your defrost thermostat. It need to be tested and replaced.
You need to check if the fan at the back of the unit is working, if not the compressor will just keep working and generating heat all over the body of the refrigerator. Also check if the condenser coils is clogged and need cleaning.
After carrying out this, your refrigerator will be in good condition once again.
Hope this helped. All the best. Elect_Comp

You need to replace the "ice door" assembly. Here is a link to the part you need. Here is the service manual for your unit.

Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

there is a solenoid valve located on the back of the unit. The supply line should hook up to it. these commonly go bad. Loosen the fitting up a little and see if you are getting water. If so, tighten it up and loosen it on the top of the valve. This will tell you if it is operating

Their are 2 parts you need to replace. The glass heater and the terminator.

Video:

GE LATE MODEL SxS MANUAL

More here

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The water inet to the ice maker could possibly be frozen

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

the ice disp stopped working now the unit will try to start then stop over and over, went to main board on back of frig. took off jumper one connector it stopped but not sure what jumper one controls

We had to add the heater a little over a year ago for a GE side-by-side. At that time the part number was WR49X10173. GE did reimburse us for the part since the repair is basically due to a design flaw. The water line is not properly insulated, therefore it freezes up. They may even send you the part for free if you go to GE first. We had the repairman out first and then went to them after hearing what the problem was, they would not pay the labor or service fee, only the part fee.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator RepairRefrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator CompressorRefrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Coldheatman101

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.......

To close the two doors on their own you must have the front higher than the rear of the fridge as you face it.The doors should be higher then the back of the fridge.

See page 5 If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I have the same problem with the same unit. I removed the ice tray and held the open door cut-off switch closed. I then pressed the lever to dispense ice. I hear a humm like power is getting to the motor but the motor is not turning. I hear a click like the selonid is engaging. I'm having to assume at this point it's the motor and I am going to go ahead and order a motor. I've found a motor for the unit at partselect.com for $65.54. Hope this helps you.

Refrigerator not cooling, ice forming on back of side-by-side freezer:
Turn off unit. Empty freezer section. Remove freezer back panel (4 screws) to expose iced-over coils. Use a fan to speed up defrosting. Put a towel or a plastic drip pan in the bottom of the freezer to collect melting water (rather than letting the water collect and maybe overflowing in the drip pan underneath the refrigerator).
After defrosting, by temporarily replacing the freezer back panel and turning on the unit, the refrigerator may operate OK for about 3 weeks before the next excessive ice build up.
Possible problem- a burned out Defrost Heater.
To check: After defrosting, turn off power to or unplug the refrigerator.
Unscrew the Defrost Heater bracket (2 screws). When loose, unplug the two wires connected to the unit. Have the unit checked, or use an ohm-meter to check continuity. If unit measures "open", high resistance, replace the Defrost Heater and bracket. If the heating element shows continuity (or low resistance) the heater is probably OK and you have another problem.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

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Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

heatman101

Hello there:
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running. First, answer these questions: Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.” Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it. Next, see if the compressor motor is running The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these: The compressor The Thermostat The overload, relay, or capacitor The defrost timer The condenser fan motor