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GE GTH18KBR Top Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers
5 year old Amana bottom freezer. No cooling
you can have the compressor replaced for around 500usd on the norm. that would be the most inexpensive way to go compared to a new unit , it will come with a 90 day-1 year warranty.
Phil
COMPRESSOR NOT RUNNING
First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:
Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start
components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to
ground and across to each other.
If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be
different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor
if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words
everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the
compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem
solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically
inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace
the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to
12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And
about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other
1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from
a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t
understand.
GE Fridge/Freezer Having to turn temp up just to keep it cold
From your comment.
It's not that you have to defrost the parts, that's what they're called. "defrost timer", "defrost t-stat" and "heat element". Defrosting the whole fridge for a few days actually will clear the ice blockage if that's it but it will return in a couple weeks if the "defrost cycle" isn't doing its thing. A fridge typically goes into some form of "defrost cycle" to keep it "frost free". As an example, every 12 hours the compressor turns off and the evap. fan turns off then a heat element turns on to melt the light coating of ice on the "cooling coils". Once about 1/2 hour goes by the heating turns off and the cooling turns back on again. This repeats over and over to keep the ice from building up too much. If that cycle is broken, the ice will build and build till the whole coil is a block of ice. Then the air can't flow around it to provide cold air for the whole unit. It acts basically like putting a large block of ice in the freezer and keeping the doors closed... without a fan to move the cold air only the very lower portion of the freezer is cold, the rest is warm.
GE Fridge/Freezer Having to turn temp up just to keep it cold
That's a typical sign of the defrost cycle not working and ice is building up on the coils. That prevents proper air flow of cold air around the compartments. As ice builds up you get less air flow and things warm up soooo you turn up the cold which causes more ice to build up and even less air flow soooo you turn up the cold. See where I'm going with this? You'll have to check your defrost timer, defrost t-stat and even the heat element. Look in your owners manual or online for diagrams of where the parts are located on your older unit, then go from there.
Why internal lights not working yet panel lights do?
There could be several reasons why the internal lights in a vehicle may not be working while the panel lights are functioning. Here are a few possible explanations:
1. Blown fuse: Check the fuse box to see if the fuse for the interior lights has blown. If it has, replace it with a new one of the same rating.
2. Faulty light switch: The switch that controls the interior lights may be faulty or worn out. Try toggling the switch on and off to see if it makes any difference. If not, consider replacing the switch.
3. Loose or corroded wiring: Inspect the wiring connections for the interior lights. Loose or corroded connections can disrupt the electrical flow and prevent the lights from working. Tighten any loose connections or clean off any corrosion.
4. Burnt-out bulbs: If all the interior lights are not working, it's possible that multiple bulbs have burnt out at the same time. Check the bulbs and replace any that are no longer functional.
5. Dimmer switch settings: Some vehicles have a dimmer switch that controls the brightness of the interior lights. Make sure the dimmer switch is not turned all the way down or set to a very low level.
If none of these solutions resolve the issue, it may be best to consult a professional mechanic or electrician to diagnose and repair the problem.
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